V8Buick Forum, I suspect that the flywheel and/or pressure plate in my '64 Wildcat 4-speed car has possibly been turned once too many times. Reason I say this is the clutch grabs only when the pedal is real high. Also when in reverse its a bit "jumpy" too. Otherwise it does shift "ok" through the gears. It works on the highway. The issues are most pronounced when operating at slow speeds, stop lights, driveway, and backing out of garage. The restorer that put this together for me sent the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch to Fort Wayne Clutch to resurface the flywheel/pressure plate and rebuild the clutch. Anyway indicated above I'm not happy with the feel of the unit, now that its back in the car, and was told by the 1st restorer that its fully adjusted (as far as it can go). Though I haven't personally verified this (installed right or not or adjusted right or not) and have not torn it all apart to see if it was. My thinking is that it was installed correct because it does technically work (though not sure if that's the right assumption). Anyway this car is all about the clutch experience, its a 4-speed car after-all, so I want the clutch to bring me joy and operate exactly as it should. I'm hoping this forum can help me answer three questions: 1.) When I finally do get my car back (after its second complete repaint - long story) is there an easy way for me to tell if the installation and adjustments are all done correctly to operate the current unit in an optimal way? 2.) If the unit is installed right, and adjusted right, then am I correct in diagnosing that the pressure plate and/or flywheel may just be milled/turned too much over the years to deliver the right feel? 3.) I've been searching for an NOS flywheel for my car for 3+ years with no luck. So I'm considering other options. Are the pressure plates/clutch kits at the following vendors suitable options for my car? a.) Centerville - http://centervilleautorepair.com/flywheel b.) Bendtsen's - https://www.transmissionadapters.com/index.htm Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice on this. Regards, Matt-
Yes, you are correct in the pedal height/release point. The clutch pivot may need to be adjusted. (My expectation is that with the experience that Ft Wayne has, likely your assembly is usable) Check the air gap on the release bearing for about 1/8" from the face of the bearing and the fingers with the clutch engaged/at rest. (This is my preference) If that is correct, and the pedal is adjusted so that the pedal shaft stop tab and rubber bumper has about a .040 gap. I use the a piece of card stock folded in half and adjust the rod so that there is no drag on the card. That keeps no pressure on the bearing. There are several things that you need to be mindful of. If you are at the limits of adjustment, you may have use of the clutch for a while, but as the clutch wears, you will start having gear clashing on shifts, and if you are doing anything but cruising/gentle driving, you will be disappointed. If the flywheel is resurfaced too much, you can have the shock springs (those around the hub web) contact the flywheel bolts, while it may function OK after assembly, once the clutch plate wears, the bolts can start hitting the springs. That will result in clutch slippage among other things. It is a "short lived" problem as the noise is enough to get you to address it. Second is over machining to a point that the heat sink ability is lost, (as well as warping) and that can be a safety issue. My father was killed due to a flywheel/clutch failure, in his dragster 60 years ago, and this was a factor considered as contributing. (Made me a bit focused on the safety of things) Since you already spent the money, you can try and drive it for a while. I chose to replace the flywheel outright on mine, rather than deal with the cost of machining. A CNC for flywheel surfacing is a must, to properly cut hot spots, that are work hardened from heat. Other cutting bits may not remove the areas properly or evenly and that can result in slipping, grabbing and chatter. I purchased the flywheel and quite a few things from Russell at Centerville and Bendtsen, and am very pleased with everything form them. While not all inclusive, I hope this helps a bit.
See if this will work with your set up. I use these on A bodies but I have never worked on a Wildcat clutch mechanism. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/proper-clutch-adjustment.320342/#post-2672443 Lakewood Suspension 15501 - Lakewood Adjustable Clutch Fork Pivot Balls Compare Clutch Fork Pivot Ball, Adjustable, Steel, Black Oxide, Chevy/Pontiac/Olds, Most Applications, Each (12) Part Number: LAK-15501 More Detail... Estimated Ship Date: Today
Matt's Wildcat has a stepped flywheel & matching pressure plate if I remember correctly. A flat flywheel may work along with the proper pressure plate, BUT I would have to be there doing the installation to see if it can all work together properly. Where's Ted when you need him??? P.S. another thought is that if the clutch return rubber is missing the pedal will be much higher than normal. After replacing??? the rubber grommet now the pedal will have to be re-adjusted for the proper amount of free play & will now grab lower. Won't solve the chattering, but worth a look see to make sure the grommet is there to begin with. Tom T.
Thanks for the input guys. This is why this forum is so valuable. Tom I wish my car was in your neighborhood. Let me mull through the above. Fingers crossed for an NOS unit to be revealed to the universe.
Matt, At looking at both web sites they sell flat flywheels & clutch components for flat flywheels, NOT recessed as you have. So I don't know if they will work in your situation via recessed.
Is the Wildcat linkage similar to the later A bodies with an adjuster rod at the fork? Usually, when the clutch grabs high on the pedal, it means the adjuster rod is too long. Wouldn't just adjusting the rod shorter make it grab lower? For reasons unknown, both of my 4 speed cars seem to chatter on occasion in reverse.
When this came for sale I had to grab it, all the unique stuff for a 65 Wildcat 4-speed. Not a great picture, but here is the stepped flywheel and z bar. Also the bellhousing to the left. Just about every part is unique to the 4-speed Wildcats.
Ted. Do any of your 4 spd. "Cats" have a rubber stop for the clutch pedal in the UP position??? Or does it hit metal-metal??? Know what I'm talkin' about??? I don't think that Buick would have NOT had some kind of cushion when the pedal was released like on lessor expensive cars. Upon release, depending on how hard the pedal was released would make a bang & on bumpy roads may even rattle. How much higher does your clutch pedal sit above the brake pedal??? Or are they even??? "If" the rubber stop which is about 1/2" thick, if I remember correctly, once installed it will bring the clutch pedal down to a more comfortable height & once you adjust for the proper free play now the engagement will be lower & at a more comfortable height. Tom T.
Lots of variation on pedal height. My 3-speed cat must be missing the bumper - way high action- Dual quad convertible seems like it rests level with brake. I have to get some pictures and review the others.
