I would make the assumption that a 50-year-old radiator is partially clogged. I wouldn't be surprised ,if a good radiator shop could get a new core for it. I would replace/recore the radiator on general principle. I also like the idea of drilling a tiny hole in the thermostat. Some of the newer 'stats come with the air bleed hole already in them.
I set my timing by the book, but all this talk about that has me concerned about the dampener possibly having slipped. Is there any way to tell that, short of comparing it to a known good one? The radiator is currently at the shop being rodded out, we shall see where that gets me.
I think if you follow the guide that Ron posted, step 3 should be how to set the timing: 3. There is a lot of misinformation about ignition timing and cooling. Retarded timing contributes to overheating. Advanced timing helps cooling. Bump up your initial timing a few degrees and see if it helps the car run cooler. It's an easy and practical fix. Of course, if you advance enough to enter pre-ignition or detonation you will start to overheat. Detonation contributes to overheating. If you start to detonate back off the timing. Overheating cars should always run vacuum advance. Vacuum advance helps cooling. If you advance it to the point of detonation and then back it off a couple of degrees you should be at maximum cooling effect as far as timing goes. This of course will probably not agree with what the book says.
The part I highlighted, really is important! My Dad had a 1968 Buick Wildcat for many years. When he first got it, it would often overheat in Jacksonville Fl during the summer with the A.C. on. Tried flushing, replacing Thermostat, hoses, etc....still would be an issue some days. Finally went with a 4 core radiator . Made a big difference. But, a year later, started to have the same problem again...flushed, changed Thermostat, waterpump...everything we could think of. Still overheated. Finally, someone said check the Vacuum Advance. Checked it, and clearly diaphragm was clearly broken. Replaced it, and car ran much cooler, finally could drive on 90+ degree days with the A/C on again!
I did the full timing check on the car, it has 10* base timing, 12* base with vacuum connected, and it advances as it should as RPM increases. Bad news: Shop called, they ran a basic chemical cleaning and pressure test, and based on what they see the radiator won't survive being rodded out Good news: Located an A/C parts car with a good radiator and factory shroud not too far from me. Going to call on that later today.
I called on the parts car, gentleman doesn't want to part out himself yet, holding out for a package buyer. So I picked up the radiator at the shop, and since the chemical cleaning exposed a split seam on the upper tank anyway, I decided today was a good day to learn about rodding radiators. And WOW was it clogged :shock: So, anyone who suggested it must be plugged, I think I owe you an apology . I manufactured a "rod" out of aluminum flat stock - 1/16" x 1/2" x36", trimmed down to 3/8" wide to match the tubes. I filed the edges and rounded the tip so it wasn't sharp. I picked aluminum because I was hoping (so far so good) that it was soft enough that it wouldn't damage the copper. And most of the tubes, this is what I'm getting: Some of them have actually required 2 or 3 roddings to be clear, and some I had to put some significant force on. Unfortunately, I broke my "rod" when I was starting the last set of rows - so I have 12 more rows to go, after I make a trip to Lowes in the morning. Then for the adventure of trying to seal the end tank back on. The way I see it, the radiator was junk anyway so if this doesn't work out, I've spent maybe 3 hours of my time, a little water and about $15 in supplies. Worth the shot!
That radiator looked about the way that I would have expected for an original. I think you will find that your heating problem will disappear now. BTW: I wonder how many of today's radiators will still be holding coolant 50 years from now? Harrison built really great radiators "in the day".
All that white "Stuff" surrounding the tubes is called "Solder Bloom". This is what happens as the chemicals in the cooling solution starts to "Break down" all the solder on the tubes joining points. It would be almost nhea inpossible to re-solder all the joints. You will now be left with a forever leaking radiator. Can't knock you for trying & the low $ amount & time spent to at least give something a try. If it doesn't overheat now you will at least know, positively, what needs to be done.
Absolutely right! For the cooling: get the cooling system right!! The timing and fuel mixture contribute to cooling, But, one step at a time
Update time: This has definitely fixed the problem. 190* driving, about 210* idling, nice and steady. telriv, you are correct sir. This core was in poor shape, and it did develop a significant number of leaks which I then at least marginally patched. Chalk it up to experience and being a cheap Yankee Bottom line: I did manage to get it to work. I would not try to use it if the weather were warm (fortunately for me, it's pretty cold here now). But it will do to keep the car driving until I put it up for the winter at the end of the month, and let me idle it to keep the fluids moving over the winter. I'm planning to buy a new radiator in the spring.
