TeCeWell......I have temp sensor installed but I couldn't find a fitting that went from the 1/2 male (block) to an 1/8 female (sensor) so I had to get a 3/8_1/8 then sensor. Makes only the flat bottom of sensor seen thru second bushing if that makes sense?? Wish I could get one fitting that way more of sending unit would stick out in water. But its easy to swap if I can find later. My problem now is ....I took out the 180 stat I got and it was stuck shut. I could barely get it open with my fingers the first time. So in with the new 160 ....I'm seeing pitting on the jacket housing where rad hose goes. The mating surface has more pits in it than I like but id think with gasket and permatex it would seal but it was leaking there so idk if I should get another one or what...don't really got 100bux to spend on one n id hate to have er sit in winter storage unable to start every cpl weeks.... I'm. Doubting the studs have threads good enough for bolt to tighten enough against housing because the top 1/4" by head the threads r fubar like the bolts act tight but housing just isn't quite there? So I'm hunting for oem bolts and water jacket to see what sort of money I'm lookin at.. Anyone have an idea where to get those at? Thanks Bill ---------- Post added at 11:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ---------- Done deal cept for a one bushing reducer set up. Thanks andy
I use to use a flat sharpening stone and some oil to bring the gasket surface flat again. Was really easy with the aluminum thermostat housings on the 350-455. What is the housing of the Nailheads made of?
Also keep in mind that by the time the coolant gets to the heads, it's already experienced its greatest change in temperature by absorbing the thermal energy from the block and cylinder walls. It'll certainly be hotter at the front of the heads verses the rear, but that temperature gradient will be less drastic than what you would see from the front of the block to the rear, if that makes any sense, at least from a theoretical heat transfer point of view. I know Aeroquip and Russell make that adapter, if you can't find anything local. Pitting on those surfaces is common. If it's really bad, CARS Inc makes a new aluminum water outlet. I think it's $25 or so. I'd try sanding the mating surfaces smooth, as best I could, and then use RTV and a gasket. For the threads, you could run a tap thru just to clean them up, and try new bolts. You might get lucky, since the old bolts were likely corroded. If the threads in the water manifold are truly no good, you could either drill and tap for a larger bolt, or go with helicoils.
Cars inc hads water jackets for 23.00 so got one on the way and a stat gasket So I'm waitin on parts usually takes 4 days so hopin to have em on Friday.. Gives me time to try and find another fitting for sending unit I guess. Will. Let evryone know when I get back together ---------- Post added at 07:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 PM ---------- Andy...I think water manifold threads r fine is the bolts that are corrodedup neaar head I might just get new bolts. But if I can find some nos ones id be happier lol I noticed antifreeze in a puddle on top of timing cover is what starfted me looking for the leak. But I thought it was an overheat prob because paint was comming off the manifold. But when I looked on back with the rad hose off I could see lines in paint and the gasket was wet but the b uick green came off on my finger so I thought the housing pits were my problem heck 23 bux isn't bad I just got a new one. Never leaked til the paint I put on it got rem.oved with coolant. I have some left over so ill repaint the water manifold and jacket..oh and the valve cover where I hit it with the dang wrench pullin the water temp sending unit :-( ---------- Post added at 08:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 PM ---------- Andy you know a part number for aeroquip or russell for a 1/2"male to 1/8"female? After looking on aero site I have a headache and can't find nothing close lol
Here's a link to an eBay listing -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/300930560866?lpid=82. That's about half of what the Aeroquip/Russell fitting costs. Otherwise, Aeroquip PN FCM2141 or Russell PN 661600.
Brass fittings found at auto parts stores are usually made by Weatherhead or Dorman Products. Search for pn 110FA, 43105,490092 Here's the Dorman 1/2" Male/ 1/8" female 'bushing': http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=587588 You can check local stores, or here's one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-Thread-Size-1-8-FNPT-Thread-Size-1-2-MNPT-/111120983522
Thanks for posting that Walt. I didn't know that was a readily available adapter, definitely a cheaper alternative!
Trike,,, oh, Trike,,,, what I always do with a t-stat is put it into a pot of water and bring it to a rolling boil to see if it is going to open up properly,,, some wont open at all, some partially, some stick open... test em BEFORE you put em in.....:Brow: that is a whole lot better than doing the job twice.....:Brow:
UgUPDATE::::;:: OK. I put new 160 tstat/ gasket/and housing . Started up and I ran out of daylight gauge was only at 75 after bout ten min. I wasn't able to put single bushing in the rear head for sending unit so i dk if that's why or not. It sure seems like a lot of pressure builds up in rad prior to stat opening...ill get er out and run longer to make sure this weekenf. I went to take cap off wto check flow. Ut it tried to push water oujt aftter u leave the cap on so idk if that's a problem or if it just needs to heat up more?? With gauge at 75. In gear at idle I have 25 on oil gauge. If I hold brake and gas it a little bit I get back to 30 without high rpm just a small amt of throttle. I think this is ok?? Do I. Still need to take valve covers off to check if I'm getting good flow or?? Is there a number I have to watch for like an OMG shut it off ur b urnin up motor kinda thing! I kinda thought 25 was low but I'm idling low and in gear so?? I need to know how to figure out if my generator is working right becaused the volt gauge shows like 10.1 it cranked slow but fired up. When it was idling itself water temp was like 50. The gauge never shot up even when I revved up engine . It was at 11.2 when I shut off car for the night so I'm tryin to figure if I learned anything tonight other than I don't have a leak at the tstat housing sending unit or oilo send units?? And if I need to run longer and see how hot gauge reads ?? I don't get why when I start car with cap off as it warms up it starfts pushing Antifreeze to top of rad so I put cap on so I don't waste any but then if I let car run then it makes the pressure so???? Sure seems to sound good tho when running for it to be a head gasket or something of the like idk . Been readin all I can find to try and figure what's going on but no luck.. I did read that its normal for the rad to push out water when its been running with cap on...says something ab out. Water will "boil" and push out when cap is loosened. Which it does but I don't know if that's normal or not?? Anyhow...I'm goin to call it a nite and get er back out tomorrow and let it run longer so I can see what the gauge reads and if the tstat will acutally open or whatg... So do I just let the coolant push out until tstat opens?? Is this right? Maybe I overfilled rad before startup?? Sorta worried a bout the oil thing too since I went from 35 on staart up and 40 at 2500rpm to 25 when in gear at idle specially if the temp gauge was only at 75 heck at that rate I won't have any oil pressure when temp is up to 160 Sighs....well anyhow. Please. Weigh in everyone and as always I appreciate the help and insight Bill ---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:57 PM ---------- Hey walt thanks man! I got one at napa for 3.75 brass Haven't put in yet ran out of light and wanted to see what I got with it in current sset up.. Doc.....ya know I thought about doing that but I get home at 540 and father time shuts out lights sooner now...:-( So I figured is a new one....but then agaain that's what I thought when I got the last new one and I know it was stuck shut.... This one will move with minimal effort....sighs. I'm goin to have to take it out again and cook it on stove aren't I?? I remember dad putting a kettle on stove cooling car p;arts or so I thought...it was a tstat and he'd use moms meat thermometer and it was one of those things I overlooked doing myself lol Well I posted a frigin novel up. There bout this eves adventure ill wait til morning b4 doin anythiing I want to see what's what with the oil psi posts and the rad pressure before I head to garage least ill have a game plan for the day right?
It's not uncommon for it to take a while to warm up this time of year. I let my car idle in the driveway for 10 minutes today before running an errand, and when I left, the cold light was still on. So don't worry about that. Also, don't worry about pressure in the cooling system, as it is designed to be a pressurized system. As soon as it starts to warm up, pressure will begin to build. Next time just top of the radiator, put the cap on, and leave it. If it needs to vent excess pressure, it will. 25psi at idle is ok. I'd expect it to be slightly more though, especially if it was still cold. But until you can get a hot in gear idle reading, don't worry, because that is plenty. For adequate oiling, a good rule is 1psi per 1000rpm. So if your idling at 700rpm, you'd need 7psi. In regards to the generator, it is not uncommon for it to barely charge, if at all, at idle. So again, until you can get a voltage reading while your driving, take what you see with a grain of salt. Ideally, you should see something around 14V once the RPMs are brought up.
Dude! The cold light goes out at 110???? If mine went out and gauge read ummmm like 50 or so how's that right??? Man I think I got a frikkin celcius gauge?? Oh dude..that sucks I can'convert that on the fly :ball:
That's what the factory shop manual claims, and from a cold start, that's usually where mine flickers out. Sometimes a little more, as the factory sender for the dummy light isn't suppose to be super accurate. If your light went out at 50*, either your sending unit for the light is bad, the gauge is inaccurate or bad, or perhaps it is a celsius gauge. Got a link to the gauge you purchased?
yep,, Andy,,, I am with you on the t-stat.... sounds like he has bought a metric gage.... his numbers sound weird... now to the oil pressure,,, if a nailhead has good bearings in it and the idle is set at 600 - 650 rpm the idle oil pressure is going to be right at 20 psi after a complete warm up... at least 20 minutes of running time.... 30 minutes is better..... The voltage readings.... I still like the old amp meter system, but some guys like volt meters,,,but with the old generator system, and a car that is driven very little or just around town,,, the battery is always low....it takes at least 1 hr. of highway driving at speeds above 40 mph for a gen to really get the battery charged up good.... I have been on long trips and all of a sudden the dash lights and head lights would start brightening up and then for the rest of the trip they would really be bright....that was because the gen finally brought the battery to full charge.... the real cure for this is to convert to a alternator.... that is why , years ago, emergency vehicles had huge generators from the factory.... from what you are describing , I would say that you worry too much.....:Brow::laugh:
I've gave thought to going with an alternator setup bit I have the original generator and wanted to use iy least til it quit working. Andy can't find link for gauge but.I'm almost.sure.its.a.celcius.gauge. I have another one same type maybe it is farenheit ill check it and see I hope I am just worrying too much lol Thanks for.the.help everyone
