I was hoping some people could give some input on bettering there 60 ft times, Bruce Wilson's car comes to mind, what combo's are you using to get that low 60'? Ithinkmy car is about 3850lbs. and have run a best of 1.49 60' but would like to learn more to get a little quicker this winter!! My current setup, 494'' stroker eng. rev. manual valve th400 trans,4:10 gears, 29.5x9.5 tires, rear end setup, currently Metco Adj. uppers w/ 2 flats preload in pass. side, Metco lowers, (solid) T/A No Hop Bars, HAL ADJ. shocks set at #4 drive side and #6 pass side, air bags set at 4lbs both sides and the HRpartsNstuff anti roll bar installed. Have I added to many parts too this combo? thus causing bind in certain areas? I will be removing the Metco components, and installing HrpartsNstuff upprs and lowers, the lowers will be 1/4'' longer to give extra room in the front of the tires. please reply with your combos and or thoughts of what I have done, and what you have done and or recommend to better the 60' times. any and all replies are welcome, I need to learn more! Bruceo No:
Bruce I've never been on the starting line to watch your car leave.....Does it spin,Or is it ''lazy''?Thus the slow 60 ft's. Even at full weight I think you have enough power to go around 1.40 60 ft. If the converter is too tight (Lazy)......All the suspension in the world won't help. If the anti-roll bar is doing it's job,Then you can get rid of the air bags.And un-do the pre-load in the upper control arm. Too much pre-load is said to srub off some MPH. I'm also not a fan of "No-Hop" bars on a set-up such as yours. Just think.....Another tenth in 60 ft and you could touch the 10.20's PS HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
I think you need a sawzall and a welder. Then buy a rear subframe and 4-link kit. Then narrow your rearend. Then buy some 15x15 wheels and some 33x15 slicks. Then buy some wheelie bars. Then go REAL FAST. I hope this helps. :beer
Bruce, try a recording tach. It can help you pin point where you could be losing on your 60'. If you are not spinning (and you should know if you are without a recording tach) then it is probably the converter. In my case it was not the converter what I needed was jet extensions (recommended by Bruce Wilson) in my carb and it picked up my 60' from 1.45 to 1.32. I must have had that same problem (same carb) with my other motor in the car as well but it was not as obvious until I installed the stroker. The car would leave hard and then kind of nose over then pick up and head down the track. Bquick has spent more time and money trying every bolt on rear suspension and control arm kit than I have on my whole car. I think he runs south side machine lift bars on the lowers, adjustable uppers, air bags (not sure if he uses them since he added the HR Parts piece), and the HR Parts anti roll bar. Remember if you want to bracket race without big tires you need to compromise between low 60' times and consistent traction. Of course it still has to start (oh did I say that! just kidding and Happy Birthday) Mike 9.51 at 138 mph 1/4 5.99 at 112 mph 1/8
Bruce, One place to start is to do like Gary said. Get rid of the air bags, take the pre load out of the upper bars and just use the anti-roll bar for pre load. Good luck
Hey Bruce, Happy Bday! The question is : are you spinning now at all? All the suspension stuff won't make it 60 ft any better. A hook is a hook. That aside, the keys to a good 60 ft are carb tuning, timing (including cam timing) and converter. Do you have jet extensions, what squirters, jets, timing? What rpm do you stage at, critical with a relatively tight converter and a Dominator)? What does it flash to? I purposely set my car up with more cam timing (4 deg adv) to get more vacuum and better idle for the street.....as well as not having to rev it as high with those stock rods! (though I do go 6700) Bruce
[ My current setup, 494'' stroker eng. rev. manual valve th400 trans,4:10 gears, 29.5x9.5 tires, rear end setup, currently Metco Adj. uppers w/ 2 flats preload in pass. side, Metco lowers, (solid) T/A No Hop Bars, HAL ADJ. shocks set at #4 drive side and #6 pass side, air bags set at 4lbs both sides and the HRpartsNstuff anti roll bar installed. Have I added to many parts too this combo? thus causing bind in certain areas? I will be removing the Metco components, and installing HrpartsNstuff upprs and lowers, the lowers will be 1/4'' longer to give extra room in the front of the tires. Hi Bruce, The first thing I can recomend to you is to get a 29.5 / 10.5 Pheonix slicks. When I was running my 72 GS in street eliminator I tried all brand tires and this soft sidewall worked the best. The new 1/4" longer rear control arms will help fit these tires as the measure larger the they say.They are 11" wide so you might have to use a 5" backspaced wheel to make them fit. I was able to get them under my car with only trimming the wheel lip molding. The next thing is eather a trans brake or larger converter. The carb has to be set up right if you want to foot brake it. The best company I have founnd for setting it up is AED Performance. The Dominator needs work perfectly to leave cleanly in a foot brake heavy car. My GS ran a best time of 10.31 @ 130.23 mph with the same engine I have in my race car.Stage 1 heads!!!!!!! :grin: :grin: I only foot braked this car and it would 60 foot 1.48 to 1.45. Also you dont need air bags in your car if you have a torsion bar like the HR parts one. The right ride height should be set by your coil springs!! Good Luck and see you at the track, Rob
Phoenix Tires Bruce, Rob is right on with the Phoenix slicks. I run the same size on the 68. Hooks phonomenal & consistent. Had a 1.43 60' even with my lttle 455. I would agree with the trans brake as well. i have incorporated Rob's suggestions in my ride & it does work! PS. you'll will love a brake once you try it!!!Randy
Havent I seen photos of this car with the left front tire 12" high? And that was a 1.49?? Dump the no-hops and air bags. Your shocks wont work correctly unless you do. Set the correct pinion angle with the adjustable uppers. Call Coan for the right converter, unless you feel confident in what you have, around 5000 is good for a 494 as long as you dont drive thru it on the big end. Make sure your carb is set up correctly with jet extensions, proper jets (say around 92-94 depending on weather), no power valves, and the correct squirters, say around 35-38. Then hang on.
Oh, and get all 4 corners off the ground and make sure the tires rotate VERY freely. AND make sure the carb is opening all the way. I know these sound simple, but I cant tell you how many times these are overlooked.ou:
