Hello all. I have properly rebuilt my 2982s Carter 4 barrel and my Buick just will not start. I used a kit from napa and did the floats, new needles, jets, THOROUGHLY cleaned it, and even had it thermal chrome coated to look great. I have gotten so desperate, I bought another 59 carter of ebay but its numbers are 2840s. The primaries on it have a "baffle" the extends farther down into the carb. Whats the differnce? about two weeks ago I drove her with an edlebrock 650 and it did fine, then she died coming back down the driveway so I figured the edelbrock had an issue. SO I rebuilt the carter to use the nifty "foot start" feature too. It would putter for a few seconds and blow flames through the carb ( I actually burnt my hair!) NOW The car wont start at all, it used to "try" to start but now it just wont give me anything. WHAT GIVES?!?!
I'm curious, have you checked the timing chain, and cam sprocket for play ? Sounds like it's more than carb to me, especially with flames. I had a 56 chevy do similar stuff, and mine turned out to be chain and sprocket. Thats all i know. GL Wil
A few off the wall ideas... If you have ANY factory exhaust pipe with laminated tubing, replace all of it. Laminated pipe can close the exhaust and cause a total no-start condition. And make sure the heat riser is open. Also make sure the carb base gasket is correct if you have a heat riser opening groove under the carb. Also make sure the gas tank has proper venting, and the internal sock is not clogged.
Start with the ignition, - verify that it is set properly, - check the coil, then go back to the fuel side; check for vacuum leaks, and if it still doesn't want to start, do a compression test, - if the compression is low on all cylinders, then check and see if there's play in the chain. No need to go ripping and tearing until a few simple things have been checked out.
After all this cranking in attempt to get her started, my rebuilt starter is turing very slow and whining. So theres another strike against me... Why would the chain/sprocket make it occasionally shoot flames through the carb? I always thought that was a very rich condition especially when Im trying to start the car and it has the possibility to be somewhat flooded. I pulled the intake manifold yesterday and put "form a gasket" by permatex on the top and bottom of my composite gaskets. THEN I applied a thin layer on the carb base of the intake and put the steel AFB separator, then another thin layer for the actual sealing gasket then the carb. This should eliminate leaks from there I hope. Also, I replaced and sealed the plug on the bottom of the intake. Also, the 401 was timed great and actually ran great about a year ago. Why would the timing have changed and how would I check the timing when she wont start? thanks in advance...
I'm with marc. Go to the basics: Fuel, air, and spark. If the engine is getting all three in the correct proportion at the correct time, it will run - unless there is a mechanical problem with the engine. Although I do not recommend doing this, I have run engines without a carburetor by slowly pouring gas down the open manifold. (Use a very small container, have a fire extinguisher nearby, and wear leather gloves). It sounds to me like a timing problem. Backfiring through the carburetor usually indicates spark occurring at the wrong time - either through incorrectly installed spark plug wires, grossly advanced/retarded ignition timing, or incorrect cam timing. Think timing chain/gears. Bring the timing mark on the crank harmonic balancer to zero. Put a wrench on the bolt that holds the balancer to the crank. Move the crank back and forth until you can feel the load of the camshaft - It will get a lot harder to turn the crank. If the balancer (and obviously the crankshaft) move more then five degrees, you need a chain and gears. This does not mean that the chain/gears have "jumped time", but since they should be replaced anyway, it's worth going in to have a look. Plan B: Pull the right side valve cover. Bring the timing mark to zero. Both valves on #1 cylinder should be closed. If they are not, manually turn the crankshaft one revolution until the mark is on zero again. Both valves should now be closed. If they are not; the chain has jumped time. Sorry for the length.
I can see spark on the plugs in successive order, so before I actually go see if it may be my chain\sprocket, would the slow spinning and tired starter just simply not be able to start her? Could it be just too much of an electrical load to get ENOUGH spark? Thanks for the great advice!!!
A slow spinning starter would not be the issue, but it could contribute. Older engines on a 6 volt system turned so slowly one could count the cranks. However, if the starter was hooked up incorrectly, the coil may not be getting a full signal or an intermittant signal; - and then the engine would backfire when it does. However, backfiring through the carb sounds more like spark jumping accross a cracked distributor cap or a set of mis-matched wires. I'd recheck the firing order; and then check the cap. When you took the intake off did you remove the cap? It only fits one way; and if it's "off" or mis-aligned this will cause backfiring. If the ignition checks out, then the problem could be mechanical. A dragging starter could be caused by the timing chain skipping a cog. If the timing gears are still the original nylon tooth one, then there's a good chance that it's starting to fail. Before you take the front cover apart take the fuel pump off and stick in a finger and feel the chain; - if it's loose and you can move it over 1/2 inch either way then continue pulling the cover off, you've found the problem.
I will definitely be checking out my timing chain and sprockets for sure this weekend and Ill post my findings. I have an MSD electronic/magnetic pickup system by the way with an MSD coil too... Could it be going bad by chance? I see spark on my plugs when I have them out but grounded to the block and shes turning over... I appreciate everyones help so much, you dont even know. I have such a passion for my 59 it kills me to not have it start right up like it used to
If you have a solid, blue spark at the grounded spark plug - you can assume that the coil and electronics in the MSD system are working. You cannot assume that the ignition timing (or cam timing) are correct.
It was actually more of a candle-colored spark. Orange-brownish fire color.. What would that mean for me?
i agree with John and Marc.... go back to the basics.... make sure the ignition timing is right.... and then go from there.... but,,,, from your description , I would bet the farm that the engine has jumped time.... classic symptoms... the starter squealing is a classic symptom of a dragging starter it needs to be rebuilt or exchanged.... just as well do it now,,, cause it aint gonna get better.... sometimes with a engine you have a combination of problems.....not just one....
The distributor if firmly bolted tight. I guess ill have to check for the chain/sprocket being at fault here this weekend an i will be sure to follow up on here. I already found replacement chain/sprockets on Taperformace.com . One seems to be what I am looking for, a simple chain/sprocket combo for 100.00 and then there is the adjustable 9-keyway setups. Do I need the more expensive adjustable timing one? or just the simple route?
Remove no 1 spark plug,,, rotate the engine untill compression air starts to come out thru the spark plug hole.... now you are coming up on the firing stroke.... bring the piston on up to tdc and then take the dist cap off and see if the roter is pointing to no 1 spark plug wire terminal... if not the engine is not in time....
I don't have one, but I know that they're out there: a "whistle" that screws into the spark plug hole that will signal you when you're at the top of your compression stroke. To make sure that you're coming up on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke, you can remove a vavle cover and make sure that both valves are closed.
Well,,,, yep,,,, but i was trying to keep him from having to remove the cover and replace the gasket.... if air is coming out of the spark plug hole both valves have to be closed.... Wonder where I can get one of those whistles.....
Google "spark plug whistle." I did after I posted and found lots of references for them. Nice thing about them is that you can use the starter motor and your ignition switch and hear it from the driver's seat.
