494

Might need one of these.

http://www.taperformance.com/lifter.htm

 

TA makes hydraulic lifter cams with abouyt .510" - .520" lift that have duration in the 230 - 245. Depending on the rpm range you have in mind for your 494, one of these could be perfect and you wouldn't need a roller cam. Not that a roller cam would be a bad idea, but stuff like that is more expensive for a buick than for a chevy, so it might not be worth the extra cost.

 

Mike, I don't plan on rebuilding for 6 months and that is why I am doing my research now. I have stripped the motor down and everything looks standard and very clean with a slight lip on the thrust side of the bore otherwise it looks good. I am alittle concerned with all the bracing that is required on an engine of moderate performance. But on the other hand seeing what some guys get in hp out of these engines is also quite impressive.
BTC I would prefer to stay with a hyd cam maybe with those Rhoads lifters that Mike was refering to.

Cheers,
Slim(Royden)

 

The best thing you can do to make HP is:

Solid 462/464 shortblock.... (good rods/girdle)
Moderate solid lifter cam
Good Heads (alum 1's or 2's)
Single plane intake
950 Holley


Don't fuss with the big motor on a budget.. the HP/dollar ratio is much better spending the money on the heads.

Just did a Pump Gas/ mix fuel 625 HP street motor, that fits the description above.

It leaves the shop today, headed to it's owner.. from scratch, it's in the 10-12K neighborhood, depending on the extras.

IN a Buick, it's all about the cyl head.

JW

 

I agree with Jim about the heads. I think that goes hand in hand with my thought of air in and out. What you are going to love about the Buick motors is the torque that runs in the motors. I have always believed that torque is the name of the game.

Mike

 

Yeah thanks Jim, I think you have persuaded me towards that sort of set-up. With the rods would the stock ones with ARP bolts and shotpeening be alright or would the forged TA rods have to be used?