482 specs and question.

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by texas ranger, Sep 11, 2005.

  1. texas ranger

    texas ranger One riot one ranger

    Does any body have the CID chart for the different stroker combos.
    Also I see that the 482 is very popular with a lot of the faster cars on the board. What would the advantage or disadvantage of a 482 over a 470 build up be? I'm thinking the cost is pretty comparable.
     
  2. GS Kubisch

    GS Kubisch THE "CUT-UP" BUICK

    Terrance
    Use bore x bore x stroke x .7854 x 8 = CI

    I would say the most likely 482 would be 4.350 x 4.050 stroke

    I would also say with everything equal you would not a see any significant difference in power/performance between the two CI combo's you mentioned.
     
  3. JEFF STRUBE

    JEFF STRUBE Well-Known Member

    Gary is on the Money on the 4.350 bore X 4.050 Stroke 482 2.100 Rod Journal and the 470 Motor 2.200 Rod jornal.

    We put some 4.360 bore X 4.050 witch is 484 runs well.They have all been Aluminum Rod Motors. I am shure the HP is about they same we build them
    because they make a little more Torque. A little more Torque never hirt
    Anyone????? Not alot or Many companys like to build Aluminum Rods with a 2 inch journal So that you We don't build any 494 The 494 is a 4.350 X 4.150 Stroke 2 inch Journal. If you going to build Bomb with Aluminum Rods you not get some extra inches You have to have the Crank offset ground anyway spend money one time. Just my two sent's
     
  4. texas ranger

    texas ranger One riot one ranger

    Thanks Gary and Jeff for the specs. My next question I remember seeing where someone had a 482 with 6.8 rod length. Can this be done with this rod and a 4.050 stroke and 2.100 rod journal.
    I'm planning on some what under gearing my set up with 3.73 gears and 28x10 slicks so I think a little extra torque will be a benifit to me.

    Jeff that's my line of thought if it's the same price as a 470 why not do a 482. Is this any weaker with the 2.100 vs the 2.200 journal?
    I may use nitrous later down the road.
     
  5. JEFF STRUBE

    JEFF STRUBE Well-Known Member

    The 2.100 Journal is just as strong as the 2.200 It's up to you. Shoot for extra Inches. I would build a 6.800 Rod Motor they work well How much
    compression are you shooting for? What head's are you going to run? What is the E.T. you are shooting for?
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2005
  6. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    Nitrous....

    If your planning on going to nitrous. #1. keep 2.200 journals for strength and go with Aluminum rods. #2 You wont need the torque of a stroker as the nitrous will more than make up for it. You can make all the power you need that a stock crank can handle so go for durability. You will go just as fast on a tuned nitrous setup as you will with a stroker if not just a hair faster. :Smarty: You start giving up useable rpm with strokers and nitrous after about a 125shot unless you have a really good set of heads and exhaust. Just something to plan for....
     
  7. texas ranger

    texas ranger One riot one ranger

    Jeff I'm still trying to decide on what compression to go with I had my mind set on 13.5 to 1 but the more I think about current gas prices and the futher price of racing fuel I'm looking at lower compression and nitrous. I'm still on the fence I know the clearances for a nitrous motor are different and you give up a little performance when not using it. Which wont be that often.
    I will be running a set SE stage 1 level 4 CNC'ed ported aluminum heads. I think with the weight of the car, Realistically 9.50 or lower would be possible.

    The cost of building a short block to live under these heads is more than I expected. Maybe when the bulldog block comes out there will be a plenty top of line affordable short blocks up for sale.

    In the meantime I will continue to save up to do it right the first time.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2005
  8. texas ranger

    texas ranger One riot one ranger

    Rick I would first off like to apologize for not responding to your question in my head thread. No disrespect intended. I honestly didn't know where I was going with the short block. After Mike (TA) telling me that I will have to turn the motor 7000 plus to take advantage of the flow numbers.
    I came to realize that that rebuilding my wounded 462 old model heavy Trw pistoned with 290-08hl camed no girdle no block filler having stock rodded Steven L Dove book inspired block and timing cover oiling mods where not going to get it done.

    With that out of the way. Thank you responding to this question.
    So if I'm understanding you correctly the 470 is more durable when nitrous is used.
    Please explain why you start to lose useable rpm with strokers and nitrous after 125 shot.
    The reason I ask this question is I know of several guys that are turning there 482's over 7000 rpm. Would they not benifit from a small 100 shot of nitrous?
     
  9. buicksstage1

    buicksstage1 Well-Known Member

    494

    A buddy of mine has run his 494 for 2 seasons now,keep in mind this car is driven on the street also. It's 3675lbs 10"slick and runs 9.90's I know there's plenty of people on this board running 494's with know problems :Do No: There are HP limits for the combo but a bomb it is not.......Chris
     
  10. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    nitroused 470

    It is a given that strokers add stress to the rotating assembly. Also by adding cubic inches you drop you peak HP rpm. Now add nitrous. If you can control yourself to a 100Hp then it is arguable about which may be better but throw a stock crank in the equations and to me it's simple. Nitrous make more toque than HP so there will be a point where you can only use so much torque at a lower rpms. After the 60ft its a hp game especially when you et increases and you need extra rpm to make the 1/4 traps without killing it with a low gear. So build all the HP you can N/A and nitrous will make up any toque you may be missing. The reason nitrous pulls the peak numbers down is because "nitrous adds more torque than HP". Being HP is torque over time, its just math and if you watch dynos you'll see the same. I can shift my old motor at 6800 but on nitrous I could shift at 6400-6500 and go just as fast. As fast as i was runnng I needing the power at higher rpm to go faster and the nitrous was pulling it lower. There are things you can do in building an engine combination with nitrous to make an engine more efficient to get an extra hp from less nitrous but that requires setting up a combintion around the nitrous. I am not talking about killing a motor just to run on nitrous but you need to give a little. Tighter converters will slow the 60ft, larger headers will push the power band a little higher, sometime a larger carb can be used as when using nitrous can cause vacuum under the carb to go up over an inch.

    My old motor was not initially set up for nitrous but adjusted for it before the motor was put together. I went with the 2 1/8 headers, installed the 108LC cam straight up, got as much exhaust flow as I could @265, had the converter set up as tight as I could get it, went with a 1250 Dominator, and left the compression at @11.6. I was very happy with the combination. Ran good on motor and even better on nitrous.

    If TA says you would have to turn it past 7000 for it to run then just spray a 150 shot to it and shift at 6600-6800. I'm not sure how the math works out as far as motor stress. Is it harder on a motor to turn it to 7200-7400 on a stock stroke? Or grind down the crank journal to add stroke, taking away stregth and adding more rotating stress? SO put a HP limit on what you plan on building. If you want to cut it off at 750HP then stroke it. If you want to push it harder and go for 850HP + then I would stay stock on the stroke and keep all the strength in the crank as you can. Go with Aluminum rods, good pistons, and a good balance job! :TU:
     

Share This Page