I have a Guy That has a APD 1150 4500 for sale, he has a few passes on it and said it ran good on his 467 BBC. I was wondering if this would be too much carb for a 600hp 464 BBB 304s cam with T/A TE heads and SP-2 intake? I know with alcohol, too rich is still ok but dont want to over do it. Thanks in advance, John.
John I would think you should be ok with that size. You can always jet the carb down. We run both injected and blown and both set ups are much larger than many people said it could handle. I too will be waiting to see what others think.
Many years ago it was considerd mandatory to have a dominator on anything near 600 ponies. Nothing has really changed other than high flow 4150 options. Concider this, the available area in the venturi used by the alky will limit the air flow in a 4150. It maybe a requirement to have a large bodied carburetor.
John, I have run one of John's (APD) alky carbs for years. I do remember having to change the air bleeds because the Buick engines air speed is faster than a BBC. Although an 1150 is probably a bit on the large side. It is probably best to give John a call and ask him. Good Luck!!!
Did APD spec that carb for that guys little (467)BBC. Thats the size they would usually build for a 565-598 BBC with 1000-1100 HP. Why did the guy pull it off after only a "few hits". They get about 1300 for a new one. Or was it a hand me down. Is your car a dragrace only deal or is it a street car. I would think the engine would have a very weak low end signal. With that amount of air flow your engine should be awesome above 6000 rpm.
Hey John, I was told that they used it on a Super Pro car, That made about 700hp. Had to rejet it when they got it new from APD. They also said, had a different motor with more cubs and switched back to gas.o No: I dont understand why they switched either other than he said that thier engine builder said, they would run better on gas?????? ou: I dont know? I also asked if they had a flow sheet. waiting to here back. He also wants $800 and will not budge on that price. I can buy a new Quick fuel for that price.
Very interesting I was told by a very good carb Builder. That i would lose 4-6% power going to methanol. I would have have to do alot more service work as well. I have 14.5 compression motor. These are Dyno Facts from this guy on Many Different engines as well as Pro Stock Engines. I looked in to for cooling and Price. I was going to run two methanol Dominator on a TunnelRam . I am still on the Fence about Fuel Prices. Sorry to jump on your Post. I just want hear some feed back. I need to run c-16 or c-25 very pricy fuel at $17.50 a gallon
Post away man! I too am looking for feed back, Loosing power when running alcohol? But it burn's cooler, that has to be some gain?didn't the Moonshine maker's put in thier cars to help HP back in the prohibition era? It does have a lot more service work. Takes twice the amount compared to gas. Still cheeper in my opinion. Prices are one of my main reasons of thinking about alcohol. I can get it for 1.47 a gallon. I was thinking about E-85, then I started thinking... It would be a pain to test all the time for consistancy for racing, as pump ethanol will vary. I do think that alcohol will do better on lower compression motors? as too much compression with acohol is possible?
It was my understanding that you have to have at least 14:1 compression to run alcohol, or it will never ignite all the way. Also, alcohol dries out seals,is harder on the cylinder walls cause it washes them down,the fuel needs to be stored in a dry atmosphere and has a short self life,and the motor needs to be gone through like every30-50 runs. Are these true statements or not? John are you planning on making this a race only motor,street,or both? An alcohol motor doesn't practical for street use to me . I do understand where you are coming from with the cheaper prices. A 55gal drum of alcohol is about the same as 3gals of cam2. Just doesn't seem right
I'm hesitant to respond because I'm not a drag racer, but I do use a lot of methanol (300+gallons/year) in a racing Buick. That carb does seem big to me, but what I do is all about throttle response, not peak power. As for Buzilla's questions I'll give my experience with methanol. I have not seen a minimum compression ratio required for methanol. Personally I have run as little as 10-1 and as high as 14.5-1. Sprint cars are much higher. I have seen dyno sheets using as little as 9-1 that showed torque increases verses gas. Generally mid-range torque increases verses gas in my experience. We use a methanol specific cam. Fuel usage is a little less than 2-1 verses gas if jetted correctly. You can get away with too rich and not lose much power and it will run ok but cylinder washing and oil contamination is an issue. I run mine pretty lean and don't see either of these issues. Too lean or too much timing and things go way bad in a hurry. My engines last for 2 seasons of hard use. Fuel needs to be stored airtight. Methanol is hydroscopic to the extreme. I don't let the car sit for more than 3 weeks without completly draining the fuel system. During the winter I disassemble the carb and fuel system, lube it, and store it in a dry place. Most people run a top end lube if rules allow. I use methanol proof carb gaskets and throw them away each season. They are junk by then. Engine oil should be methanol compatible. Cooling requirements are significantly less. I run a 19 inch single core radiator in an endurance application with no issues. I would never run it on the street, but for what I do, it is excellent.
Yes, This is a race only motor. But, I plan on driving it in a DOT Street leagal eliminator class. Car has to run on D.O.T. tires, two seats or bench, no chassy mods. Now You guys are starting to talk me out of alcohol. Lol.:spank: So... a gas 1050 would suit me better?
Thanx for the detail response Greg. I never knew that you could get away with that little of compression on alky. John for what you have a 1050 or 1150 on race gas would be much better than all the maintenance that is required on an alky system to me. But to each his own
Hey Mike, I have seen similar results as Greg. For years people thought that alky was .2-.3 quicker than gas. That is true... IF... your current fuels systems has not been maximized. When I switched there was very little ET gain. I do clean out my fuel system at the end of the year but that is it. Alky does not have a compression ratio requirement that I know of. The alky carb on my engine is tuned on the lean side. This is done to keep the ET consistent. Running the engine on the lean side also eliminates cylinder wash. I still run good old 20/50 Pennzoil and have never milked the oil or had any issue. I do not put anywhere near the amount of passes on the engine that I used to but I still would not have any problem putting 100 passes on the same oil. Dad checked today and the price for a 55 gallon drum of alky is $115.00 and you need to ad the top lube for $10. So the total is $125 divided by 55 =$2.27 a gallon. I use 1.25 gallons of alky per pass for a total cost of $2.83. Last time I checked, you cant by a gallon of 110 octane for less than $8.00 a gallon. My engine would need to have C14-C16 to run properly and the last time I purchase this fuel it was $14 a gallon. Which was about 6 years ago. I use .75 gallons of gas therefore the cost would be .75 x $14 = $10.50 a pass. The downside to running alky is the engine does not build heat fast enough. Therefore I use about 1 1/2 gallons just to warm up the engine.
Has anyone tried E-85? I do know the boys on Yellowbullet are getting damn good results from it! For the guy with the alky carb call Quickfuel Carb and have them recommend the jet size and see if it is big enough too, Plan on telling them everything about your car, because thats the true only way of doing it.
