I have a 70 lark with a 350-2 but I have an opportunity to buy two different motors. The first is a 70 Wildcat 455 with 90k that was pulled form the car 10 yrs ago and has not run since, the guy states it did not smoke or eat oil back then, just that the car rotted around the motor so it was pulled before the car was scrapped. The price is $400. The second motor is in a running car ( a 72 GS) but is out of a 73 Ceturion or other full size car. I guess I have a ton of questions- 1. What is the HP and torque rating on the 73? 2. Can the 73 be built to be as strong as any 70 motor or does the compression ratio matter- ie do I need new pistons, etc. 3. Are the heads different or if I found a pair of 70 heads could they be put on the 73 block? 4. I probably have more questions but can't think right now.
Actually its 370 gross hp and 510 ft/lbs for the 1970 engine. The 70 heads will work well on the 73 block I believe. Bummer about the Wildcat, that what I have. :Brow: Corey
The '70 455 should have a more desireable rocker arm ratio than the '73. Later 455s have oil pickup holes enlarged The 455 smog heads (like the '73's) aren't great. The '70 heads should be better If you're building the engine, don't worry about stock pistons- put 10:1 pistons or whatever you want in it. be aware though, that the '73 heads will knock down the compression ratio a bit. I have a '73 455 that I built as close to 1970 spec as i could. My actual compression ratio with 10.1:1 pistons is more like 9.7:1. The later engine will also take a thicker composite head gasket whereas the 1970 should benefit from thinner steel shim gaskets
1) 1973, depends on engine code (application) but ranges from 225HP/360 ft/lbs NET to 270HP/390 ft/lbs NET. 1970 is 350hp/510ft/lbs to 370hp/510ft/lbs but that is gross measurement, NET would be about 300Hp/425 ft/lbs or so. Compression/camshaft makes all the difference. the later engines make less power as tey were trying to maximize emmisions and mileage for a market that no longer wanted high perf. yhey actually offered a 2 barrel carb on one year of 455 if you can beleive that!!!! 2) The 73 can be made into anything you want although the lower compression pistons will hurt, 70 heads would be better. If you are replacing pistons on rebuild, who cares? 3) 70 heads will bolt right on. 4) We'll be here! Personally, its a judgement call. You didn't say how much he wanted for the 73...it runs so that is good but has it been rebuilt once already(ie has the crank been cut already? , cylinders bored or honed)? 73 will have the better oiling mods . 70 has sat for 10 years, will most likely need a overhaul anyway unless it was preserved properly (doubtful), 70 has good heads but weaker oiling mods. also has higher compression pistons already if you are doing a cheapo rebuild BUT if any of the cylinders are rusted you will need new pistosn and overbore anyway unless you get lucky. You can build the 73 to high comrpession without too much trouble, cut the deck, rebuild so replace pistons. I use composite gaskets on everything anyway so thats not really a concern for me. 73 heads aren't terrible, the ones to really avoid are 75 and 76. The basic blocks are the same except for the additional oilng in the 73. the changes that make the 73 a slug are the pistons and heads. My choice? If prices were the same, and the 73 has not been redone once already, and you are planning a rebuild (or just driving it), that is the one I would buy. If you were doing a cheapo rebuild I would go with the 70, hopefully just hone it out, replace the rings/bearings etc and off you go. I say hopefully because sititng for 10 years can do bad things to an engine (I have a block here I was given as they accidently pounded a main bearing saddle while trying to beat out a rusted piston!!!LOLthat engine sat for 5 years outside.) later Tim
rebuild Paul; I hope you are palnning on rebuilding the '70 motor. A 33 yr. old unit setting around for 10 yrs. IMHO doesn't have much potential left in the rings (probably stuck to the pistons). I also would wonder about running modern detergent oil. As the old oil sat around in the block and emulsified with all the impurities, get that baby hot with modern 5w-30 and I would think you would have a problem. (I don't know for sure, this It's just a concern. Others here will let you know) Also $400 smackers is a lot for a 455 even with tranny and brackets. If you look, I bet you could find a rebuildable core a lot cheaper tho' you'll need a turbo 400 behind it.
If you could talk the price down on the '70 definately buy it for the heads if nothing else. The '70 is a good choice but the '73 has the larger oil passages which you can do to the '70. The '73 may be a little thicker and have less core shift in the block. If you can get both for $500 or less I'd grab both. They don't grow on trees anymore.
Great advice. The 73 block is $400 as well but I am really trying to get some of the stump pulling torque of the 370/510 70 motor. I wasn't sure of the ratings for the 73, so I didn't exactly know. I might buy the 73 and try to pick up some 70 heads sometime Now, where to store the motor... anyone ever used one as a coffee table?
Actually, I've seen pictures of a glass topped coffee table made from a Ford Y-block V8 with pistons and con rods extended out of the bores, that was such a cool looking thing that I'm gonna scare me up a cracked 455 block:TU: That table will never tip over. But if push came to shove, I rent storage space in West Boylston and I'm sure I could store the block for you.
Pmass70; Clean up the block, get a round flat glass about 28" diameter 1/4" thick, take out the tranny alignment dowels set in corner for a combo end table/wine rack. This only works if you're single.
Aren't the rod bolts a better design on the 73 as opposed to the 70 motor?I was thinking that 70 used nuts and the 73 used studs.I guess it could be fixed by using ARP bolts.Maybe I am just dreaming though.Definitely ,the 70 heads will be the better choice.The price seems a little stiff to me considering that I bought a 70 SF engine that had stage 1 heads on it for a low 25 bucks.Should have seen the grin on the face with that one!Like Tim said...We'll be here. :laugh: Pat:TU:
If I do buy the 70 I am planning to rebuid it, so the insides would be completely new. would I be able to open up the oil pickup tube?
Pat, I do believe you are thinking about the 350 which had better rods/bolts for 73 up. The Buick 455 from 70-76 (as far I know) uses the same rods/bolts for all engines. 25.00?? Now THAT is a smokin deal...actually 250-400 is pretty much the going rate for a complete engine. If you find someone who has one and just wants to get rid of it, it will be cheaper. Also, you still need that vent duct? I may have one here.... Paul, any competant machine shop should be able to open up your main oil passage. later tim
