1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

442 W-25 glass hood repair question

Discussion in 'The "Other" Bench' started by CJay, Nov 18, 2007.

  1. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I know you Olds guys hang out in this area, so I figured I would ask here. I aquired an original 70 Olds fiberglass hood yesterday. It's in rather poor condition. The steel frame is rotted by the hood latch area.

    My question is- Is it worth it to repair this? The front section of the steel frame is going to have to be cut, separated from the glass and a new piece sectioned in. The nose area above the center tooth is naturally cracked. It also has one crack by the passenger side scoop opening. I'm more concerned with the metal work. Fixing the glass part is relatively easy.

    It is feasible to separate the fiberglass from the steel without destroying the hood? Anyone have any tips from experience?

    Are the current steel backed repros good enough that I shouldnt waste my time repairing this?
     
    CJay, Nov 18, 2007
    #1
  2. Duane

    Duane Member

    Jason,
    You could always send it my way, then you wouldn't need to fix it. Seriously though, if it is really rotted the best way to fix it is to get the steel inner liner from a regular hood and glue it to the fiberglass skin. I have a friend that made an alignment jig and did this to his hood.
    Duane

    PS. If you do want to sell it let me know.
     
    Duane, Nov 18, 2007
    #2
  3. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    So I take it that the hood can be separated without destroying it.

    Im not sure I understand the advantage of repairing this one as opposed to just buying a steel backed repro.
     
    CJay, Nov 18, 2007
    #3
  4. Duane

    Duane Member

    Jason,
    Some people just like original parts and are willing to take the time to repair them, some like new pieces. I guess it all depends on what you want.

    I obviously have no problem with repo parts (I make some), however I also use as many original pieces as I can.
    Duane
     
    Duane, Nov 18, 2007
    #4
  5. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    Where are you planning getting a steel backed repro??

    >The Parts Place repro hood hasn't received very good reviews (although I have never had my hands on one and for the price it's probably a decent deal if exactness is not a big factor)

    >Thornton Reproductions...doesn't repro hoods any longer. Yes, everyone says they are supposed to be starting up production again but they have been saying this for over a year now.

    It's a matter of seperating the outer skin where it's glued onto the metal understructure, Sometimes the glue is already seperating in areas. In other areas it may require grinding/cutting away the metal where it lays over the glue.
     
    pglade, Nov 18, 2007
    #5
  6. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I went on realoldspower and did some research. Neat site. From what I read, it looks like this one is going to get fixed :TU: I'd rather sink a grand into this one than pay just as much for a half assed repro.

    I got the hood for $300 over the weekend which seemed like a real steal to me. Looks like it came off a Rallye 350 originally. Still has all the trim on it, Sebring yellow paint, the center "tooth" and the screen.

    In hanging out over on realoldspower, I' was starting to miss my 72 442 :ball:

    it was a real X code W-30 455 with Ga heads, manual disc brakes and a 4 speed. I put an Olds "308" cam in it when I rebuilt the engine. That cam really woke it up. It was Matador red with a white bucket interior. Fast as hell too. Bought it from the original owner for 2500. The license plate frame said 'Crest Olds-Bronx, NY". It was my daily driver, and the replacement car after selling my white "X". yeah I know, dont get me started!

    Jennifer started using it later on to go back and forth to work when I bought my WE-4 Regal. She would come home with three things every night after work-

    1- a handful of little paper notes that people left on the car asking if it was for sale.

    2- at least two stories of the street races she won. I would cring at the powershifting part.

    3- ripped panty hose from the torn up drivers seat:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

    Im laughing as I type this remembering those stories. Anyway, thanks for the advice guys!:beer
     
    CJay, Nov 18, 2007
    #6
  7. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    Sounds good Jason.

    If Thornton ever restarts production the price will likely be substantially higher than the $1100 or so they were getting for them before.

    There was a W25 hood that a guy linked to over on ROP...he had it up for sale on Ebay. It went for $2000-2500 I think....if it was decent then someone got a pretty darn good deal.

    Try not to set the hood down where it is resting on the back (the back edge over the firewall)....this tends to bend the underside metal lip and this lip is what sets the angle for the stainless trim that goes over that lip.


    EDIT: One last thing....if the rust is limited to the front latch area then seriously consider trying to splice in a new piece up in that area only...would save a lot of time and hassle. Would have to see pics to really tell but it's worth thinking about.
    Thanks
     
    pglade, Nov 18, 2007
    #7
  8. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    That was pretty much how I was going to do it. I only want to replace whats bad, no more.

    I'm going to take a better look at it today and try and get some pics posted. I was too busy raking leaves and food shopping all weekend. Im glad it's Monday. I can go to work and get some rest! :Dou:
     
    CJay, Nov 19, 2007
    #8
  9. junior supercar

    junior supercar Well-Known Member

    I have had my hands on one. And my hands feel REAL bad for having touched the POS. Like has been said, if price and exactness are not an issue, it's a good alternative to the all fiberglass one. But they still don't fit very well (this is straight from TPP).

    I do know Thornton was/is selling just the metal frame. Might be worth looking into to see if they offer just the frame.

    My 70 OAI hood was in real nice shape. Needed no rust repair, just some cracks in the fibreglass. And it cost me over $1100 to have it repaired correctly. seperated frame from fibreglass, blast and paint BOTH sides of the metal frame except were it gets glued to the fibreglass. blast both sides of the fibreglass then have the cracks and a gouge repaired. then get the frame glued back together (the infamous porcupine shot I've posted several times on ROP)
     
    junior supercar, Nov 19, 2007
    #9

Share This Page