I hope it's aluminum, if not that'll be a heavy MF. I run a 3.5 aluminum in 3700 lb GS (low 10s). But I'm sure the Riv shaft is longer.....
I don't remember the driveshaft length off the top of my head, but it is definitely longer than 52". And it is aluminum with a 1350 solid u-joints on both ends.
Well, it wouldn't be a complete weekend with some random carnage. Got the 2004R installed along with my new alum radiator. Put a spacer behind the fan to move it a little closer to the radiator...well, i guess i should've checked the fan to shroud clearance because i started the engine and ran it for about 45 seconds before ka-boom. The results are what is seen below. The part that really pisses me off the is the shaft on the TA water pump is completely shorn off. Hopefully, i can get a replacement shaft and seals to rebuild it. Luckily, i found a 3 core radiator out of an 85 Rivi and a dual electric fan from a Ford Windstar as well as the only water pump in the area and got her up and running. Anyway, enjoy the pic.
What's worse is that with a proper shroud, you don't want the fan closer to the radiator, rather you want it centered at the shroud opening so that if anything, the rear of the fan blades protrude a bit outside of the shroud. Devon
Got my 1" spacers in today and got my new Nitto 555R's on for tomorrow! 275/60/15's on my widened stock rims.
All my work came together last night at the track. Made five runs, each faster than the last. Didn't get to do any tuning as the time spent in the staging lanes waiting to run was a bit ridiculous but all in all I've very happy with the car. Here are some general comments: -The cooling system is very efficient. I drove for an hour and a half two ways at about 70-75 with neither of the e-fans on and the temp never goes above 195. All this with a stock water pump and stock 3 core radiator. In the staging lanes with both fans on, the temp never gets above 180. -The new shift linkage i fabricated doesn't seem to have the articulation i need because it wont stay in 1st gear when i manually shift it. However, this led to extremely consistent time at the track because the trans would shift at 4000 right on the button each time. If i could just adjust the shift point up another 1000-1500rpm id be set. -Having an overdrive transmission is AWESOME! LOL. Now, I just need to hook up the lockup controller and my mileage should get even better. Well, thats it for now. Hopefully, next time I'll get to do some actual tuning.
Awesome! Is there anything you can do to a 200-4r that will make the shift points higher? I've "heard" it's set in the valve body and not the governor like the older transmissions. I'm probably going to run into this problem shortly.
I'm researching it now, but I think I'd rather just figure out the linkage issue as I would rather manually shift it. I was going to get a floor ratchet shifter...but I like shifting on the column...plus, the selector arm has a handy little button in the side to turn on the wipers that i thought might make for a handy nitrous switch.
Good job Jason! I know it felt good to make that 1st pass. That's good times for a 430 Riv & 1st time out. Looks like you've got a lot more left in it. My friend Joe (brown regal) said he talk to you in staging lanes. Next time you run Ric. shoot me a PM & we'll see if we can make it.If we're there & you need anything , just let us know. All so there's a 1/8 mile track (Northeast Dragway) in Hertford N.C. just take 17 South.They have T&T on Fri.
Man, if I didn't have bad luck I'd have no luck at all. Jetted the carb down the other day to see hunting for better mpg. I went from 72/80 to 70/78. It cruised beautiful, no stumbling. I did have a slight lean stumble on initial take off but I figured I could up the squirter. Well, I did a quick run in 1st gear to about 5000rpm and when i came back down i heard some metallic clanking coming from the bay. Today I was able to listen to it better and I'm pretty sure I cracked a piston. I'm going to take the heads off tomorrow to investigate further. I DID get the wideband installed today and its reading I'm EXTREMELY lean at idle..as in 21! I went back to 80/80 jets with the IAB at 68 and it went to 20 but something is not right there obviously. Sigh, anyway. Depending on what I find tomorrow will determine where I go from here. I still have two 455 blocks sittin gin my garage and all I need to do is take the forged piston/rod combo from my old 455 and have the new block machined and then I can use all other existing parts from the 430. But, we'll see. At least i got to drag the car once before i broke stuff again. LOL.
I feel your pain. I just updated my thread with all the trials and tribulations I've had with engines. My problem is I keep insisting I do it myself, LOL. Hopefully it's not as terrible as it seems. Did the WBO2 read a decent number while driving? 20-21 at idle is quite high and I wonder about the calibration settings.
That's what i thought too...the o2 sensor is previously used and has been sitting for a while. I didn't get a chance to drive with it installed but when I would rev the engine it seemed to respond by going richer like it should.
Yup, lean mixtures and too much timing will detonate the engine and at full throttle, that will do some damage in a hurry. If you intend to hold the throttle wide open in second gear for an extended amount of time, like in race conditions, you must make absolutely sure that you know what your maximum ignition advance is, and that the engine is not going lean. I've seen too many cases where someones sets the initial ignition timing, and either never checks the total advance or under estimates the total advance, and then the engines gets into detonation, and damage ensues. If you want to stray from stock 850DP jetting, make sure you have reliable O2 readings, and that you aren't getting dangerously lean. Also make sure your fuel system is up to your engine's potential.
yeah, nowhere in my wildest dreams think i was lean before i made the jet change. It ran so good the way it was with no indication of it being too lean. I guess the old addage "it runs best right nefore it blows up" held true. I did a compression test just nowbefore i yank tje heads and here are the results: 1 - 210 2 - 195 3-195 4-185 5-175 6-205 7-180 8-185 Not really sure what to make of this. I didmt notice any strange noises when cranking then engine either.
Compression tests are best done on a warmed up engine, you really never know what you are going to get on a cold engine. If you fire it back up and remove the breather or oil cap, does it puff like a locomotive out the valve cover? That would be indicative of a cracked piston or blown head gasket (into the lifter valley). When I blew the head gaskets into the lifter valley I had ZERO compression in cylinder 6 and it blew the oil seals out all over the engine and it puffed smoke out the oil fill hole with the cap removed. Before I did the compression test (after driving home ~800 miles) I removed each spark plug one at a time until the puff's decreased and narrowed it down to #6, which I unplugged the injector and sparkplug for the trip home. I thought for sure I cracked a piston then. Then when I actually broke the ring lands on a couple pistons a year later it simply started smoking. Not a whole lot, but it went from not smoking to smoking some, and I know exactly the hill it happened on.
im getting ready to start it here in a bit. Ill let you know how things go. ---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:25 PM ---------- So, i made a few chamges to the carb. I raised the float levels, backed the ilde mixture screws out 2 turns amd filled tje holes in tje throttle blades. The idle afr went to 17-18 which is still lean but better. The loud tapping, which is the best way i can desribe it is comi.g from either 5 or 7 cylinder. No smoke was coming out of the valve cover but the drivers side header was smoking a lot from wjere it mates to the head. The tapping amd smoke, to me, would indicate bad valve(s). The tapping seems to be worse at idle and when i rev the engine it goes away. Oil pressure is still solid though so who knows. Now ill let the engine cool and yank the head. I HOPE its just a bad valve/head. ---------- Post added at 01:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 PM ---------- Here's a video. Pretty loud noise. [video=youtube;M65ONrpoShE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M65ONrpoShE&feature=youtu.be[/video]
