4 speed parts dilemma

I’m in the process of converting a 1970 Skylark GS BB car from an automatic to 4 speed. I purchased all the needed parts from Dave Kliener (z-bar, bracket, linkage, shifter, flywheel, transmission, pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing, bolts etc). The car has been meticulously restored to the highest standard and has never been wrecked or molested.
After installing all parts needed for the conversion, I've been unable to get the clutch rod linkage that is connected to the z-bar to the clutch fork into alignment. The length is not an issue as there is plenty of adjustment for proper lash. The problem is that the end of the rod sits about 1”toward the outside of the car from the clutch fork making it impossible to connect the two.
I’ve spoken with Kliener about this issue and he is stumped on how to correct the issue and feels that all the parts furnished will fit together with no issues. However, the reality is they don’t.
Any thoughts on what might be causing the clutch rod linkage to not connect to the clutch fork without bending the z-bar bracket that the linkage attaches to?

 

Pictures of your install would really help folks figure things out. :kodak:

 

Good idea! See attached pictures.

 

A few thoughts. The ball stud is either wrong or not screwed in all the way. Hedders in the way? fork not seated completely in the bell fulcrum? trans in place or is it hanging down some?How about some pics of the ball stud and frame bracket areaa

 

I think U have the fork pushed in to far. if you can see up in there from the under side, the fork ends should be in the center of the trany shaft/bearing.
Its like you pushed the fork onto the bearing to far. maybe....

 

Could of be the wrong throw out bearing?

 

++1

 

Hi Scott,
this is the same scenario as I had, we forced the parts together and the frame bracket
side started bending in reaction to the z-bar having a side force along with the correct rotational force.

At BPG we put a tall throwout bearing in to try to compensate and move the connecting point
between the fork clevis and z-bar linkage. That helped, but there was some contact between
the Centerforce unit weights and the tall throwout bearing.

I found my original clutch fork; installed it with the throwout bearing that came with the clutch,
and it solved the problem 90%. I still have my original z-bar and was going to see if that helped as well.

 

Looks like maybe a shorter throw-out bearing would help. That would bring the outer end of the fork out straighter and more at a right angle to the fulcrum. The fork is sitting at an angle I've never seen before. Usually they sit almost straight out. I'm sure you've verified the fulcrum ball is in the socket on the fork. There should be a springy fork to hold it in there. Is it a diaphragm spring or three finger pressure plate? Could be incompatibility of the pressure plate and throw-out bearing.

 

Thanks for the replies…

Checked the bell housing stud, it’s screwed in all the way and it is the correct part. The fork is resting properly on the fulcrum. Trans andengine is mounted with factory mounts and correct location.

The throw out bearing is correct for the clutch assembly(about 1 inch).This is the smallest height throw out bearing made. I’m beginningto think the repro clutch fork is the issue. The fork appears to be a Chevrolet fork with the end cut off and a new end welded onwith the hole for the clevis pin.

Has anyone installed the fork from Dave Kliener with thesame results I’m having?


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Any luck getting this sorted out?

 

The issue that I discussed above was due to problems with the reproduction clutch fork and z-bar that Dave Kliener sold me. The clutch fork he sells is a modified repro fork that has the clevis portion welded to the end of the fork. The fork was approximately 1/2" shorter than the original. The z-bar that moves the bracket that moves the clutch rod was welded approximately 3/8" from the spot it should have been welded. I was able to get a factory example of both parts to confirm this and worked with Dave to get him to understand the problem. I've since sent the parts back to Dave Kliener and will wait for the parts to be corrected. Thanks for everyone's input!

 

What does the factory fork measure from center of ball stud to center of clevis pin?

 

Glad you're getting it sorted out. I've been running the Kleiner set up since 2005. Surprised to hear about this.