1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

4.3L Chevy Belt Tensioner ? !!!!!!!

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by pglade, Jan 13, 2004.

  1. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    Just fried my tensioner pulley on this 4.3L (the actual pulley wheel, it turns out, was what I thought was a can in the road that "I ran over" on the way too work----they both look the same when you run over them at 60 mph and watch them roll down the road in your mirror!).

    My ?---- I can buy the pulley wheel/tensioner hub at an auto parts store and/or the dealer---are these a simple remove and replace bolt on? Mine's located at the top of the motor and easily accessible---I have the long socket/breaker bar to "pull" the new pulley so I can install the belt, etc. What I was wondering is if there is some trick to actually replacing the pulley/tensioner itself? Don't have my manual here at work and I'm waiting on a ride to get the part so thought I'd ask. Thnx very much
    Patton

    This is on a 88 S10 4X4 Blazer 4.3L V6
     
  2. I don't own a Jimmy, but my dad has an 88 S-15 w/ the 4.3. I've seen the assembly, but never seen it changed. Here is a statement I found on a car forum regarding the Jimmy tensioner:

    Installed the new belt tensioner. Went very easy. Undo center bolt, pry off old tensioner. Move belt slightly out of way of tensioner pulley, align up center bolt with its hole and align the small guidepin on back of tensioner with its hole, tighten up the bolt. Carefully force the tensioner pulley down at the same time sliding the belt into position over the pulley grooves, Check belt grooves are aligned. Done!
     
  3. thepartsman

    thepartsman Back Ordered Again ?

    The GM part number your looking for is a #10229114..


    DW
     
  4. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    Thnx for the advice guys---got it fixed---can't believe it....a one bolt installation part that goes on smoothly without any of the usual descriptive words. Woo-hoo!. Appreciate it. Patton
     
  5. jimmy

    jimmy Low-Tech Dinosaur

    Left hand threads on this pulley! And don't forget to check the idler just below the tensioner. This one is usually made of plastic but can be replaced with a steel one from NAPA. I have two new ones laying on the bench waiting for installation after I get done with the freeze plug replacement. It is about time something broke after 200k miles. 92 Jimmy
     

Share This Page