Hey guys, I have finally got the timing cover off...after breaking two screw extractors off inside one of the lower bolts. We couldn't get the second EZ-out unstuck so we ended up pulling the cover. The trick my friend and I ended up doing for the crank bolt was wedging a beefy screwdriver into the flywheel. We weren't able to even make a dent in the EZ-out with my titanium bits. My buddy says to use a new carbide-tip masonry bit and see if that'll cut it loose. Or, he says, drill through the back side of the cover and punch the bit out from the back, then replug the back of the hole with JB weld. Sounds good but I'm afraid of not being lined up exactly.o No: Any Suggestions? Also, anybody out there in the OKC area know a good machine shop in case this doesn't work out? Larry Long Live the A-body!!
I had my engine built by "Buddy Rice" machine shop in downtown OKC about 10 years ago. Don't know if they are still around though. I've heard alot of good stuff about "Boyd's" machine shop in Norman, OK...And if you are familiar with "American Chopper" they use a machine shop here in OKC for some of their motorcycle frames, I think it's called "Racing Inovations", but not sure. Hope that helps. :TU:
I'd go to the machine shop. I've tried what you're posting about a few times and never got it right. Usually end up doing more damage than I already had.
Which seal to use? I'm going to get the gasket kit for my timing cover...can someone tell me the difference between the "rubber" seal and the rope seal that goes on the front of the oil pan? Larry Long Live the A-body!!
Get the rubber seal, It's easier to install and is more reliable, all I had to do when I put mine in was to remove the old rope seal retainer, rind off a few marks left by the old retainer and tap it in the new seal.
Rope seals are not my choice either. Go with the rubber (neoprene?) seal, they seem to last longer. BTW, I found you can use a Ford 460 cid rear seal in place of the rope type in 455 Olds engines - not sure about 455 Buicks or Pontiacs.
Thanks guys, I think I read somewhere that I should soak it in oil before I put it on. I was looking at the cam gear and it looks like it's got plastic/nylon teeth, is that normal? I'm thinking I should go ahead and replace the chain and gears, there's about 1/2" slack in the chain when I push on it. Is TA my best bet? Larry Long Live the A-body!!
The nylon teeth might be a problem. I can't state for sure about Buicks, but they do create problems on Ford engines. The nylon (used to quiet the noise down) flakes off and blocks the oil pump screen. Most guys don't like them and advise replacing them, I did. The slack in the timing chain doesn't sound too bad, but I'd get a new set (chain and sprockets) they're usually under $50. Actually, I'd step up to a Cloyes or similiar roller chain. Preoiling never hurts, but I don't think for the TC it's that important.
AAAahhhhh! A nylon gear! The nylon comes off, clogs things up, and it'll jump a tooth or three...replace, replace, replace! It was a bad idea back then, and an even worse one now that they're old and brittle. :spank: If $$ is an issue, then unless you've got a big cam, and/or want to KNOW that your cam timing is dead on, I'd shop a local NAPA...if you're going to get serious about building this engine, I'd get the TA parts. Either way, preoiling won't hurt anything.
