Thanks for the info, guys. Will try and remember to re-read this thread before I do the intake on the wagon. Tim
Well I just got done resealing my intake, screw those end seals! They kept rolling on me when I got to my final torque. I pulled the intake back off and threw them in the garbage, used Rightstuff on both ends. Other than that it went well, thanks for the help.
I've used rubber end seals and I've used sealer, either one is fine, but I've never had an end seal roll while torqueing the manifold. Is there possibly a machining issue?
Yeah, that is because there is insufficient clearance for them. I would think it has something to do with machining. You need .190-.200" clearance when you mock up the assembly for them to work.
1. Never use the bathtub steel intake gasket 2. Always use the TA composite intake gaskets 3. Use the AMP valley pan cover 4. Use “the right stuff” on both ends and torque to 5 foot pounds. Then after 12 hours torque to spec
If you use the AMP valley pan cover AND the rubber seals, you're going to have issues. The bend of the valley pan gasket (on the inside) makes the rubber seals almost impossible to get a good fit. I had my block decked, heads cleaned up, and TA intake port matched. Still had .188 gap. Mine leaked and I had to take everything apart and re-seal with The Right Stuff. No leaks.
.007 Cleanup cut on all surfaces, been using stock valley pan AND the rubber end seals. No problem. I've never used anything but. Tried composite intake gaskets and ripped them off. Slid around too much. They sucked imho. Everyone's setup is different......
been using rtv since they came out with it. rubber seals are good for nothing. and i have to make my own intake gaskets.
