The book is Building Max performance Buick Engines. Below is a link to it on Ebay. It is a pretty good book and covers alot of good foundation-type things when building a performance minded buick v8. I bought one and got to read it cover to cover once before taulbee2277 stole it....:moonu: http://cgi.ebay.com/Build-Max-Perfo...807?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item4cec146027
DO NOT use that book as your ONLY guide to your engine build, theres alot of mis-information in there, excellent color pictures and such but alot of wrong info, and alot of it is outdated.
Can you expound on that Mark, especially highlighting the mis- and wrong information? It is clearly outdated in that Poston parts are highlighted, but it is vague as to the actual parts used in the build (other than the intake).
Oild Mods are NOT required for mild builds. Oiling system on a 350 is plenty stout for common combinations. My 350 has 25-30 psi hot idle, 50-60 cruise with 10w30. No oil mods, and none of that booster plate nonsense. Correctly build your oil pump and pay attention to bearing clearances. That's it!
IMO (and we all know what opinions are like...:TU: ) oil mods are cheap insurance. It may not be an absolute necessity, but (again IMO) a drill, a couple of bits, and a liitle bit of my time is a drop in the bucket for cheap insurance when compared to the cost and time involved in an entire engine build. Why not take the time to help with one of the major drawbacks to Buick v8's when you've already got the engine apart and in front of you. Your engine may not absolutely have to have it done to live, but what is it gonna hurt? In the end its your decision and the need is largely based on how hard you think you're going to push it. But again, thats all in my opinion.
I'll be the first to admit I am a noob on Buicks and this is my first build and I did a bunch of research before I started. I would agree that the book should not be the ONLY thing you use to rebuild your motor, I wouldn't put my hand over it and swear by it but I did pick up a few bits of info I thought were helpfull/neat. Granted I am sure there are many a motor out there without the mods, mine ran fine without them for almost 40 years, I felt it was cheap insurance and an easy thing to do. Sriley and I with 20 minutes of our time and a 1/2 bit and some carbide,did the block and timing cover. I was doing what I thought right. If it bites me in the butt ill be the 1st to say I messed up and post for all to see. For the booster, I had to have it, there was all sorts of scarring. But like I said, just an opinion. There are many on this board who have forgotten more then ill ever know. Good luck! :TU:
Cheap Insurance? I agree. But that's different from a "Must". Many board members have pushed stock 350s very hard, myself included, and oiling issues were/are the least of our problems.:3gears:
I agree its not necessarily a "must". My stock 350 went 38 years without them, but it didnt have them because there was never an opportunity to do them as it was never apart or out of the car. But to me there's alot more "for" reasons for then "against" reasons. Maybe its the engineer in me that causes me to have a tendency to "overbuild" things sometimes for safetys sake. In the end its a judgement call on the owners part on whether or not they want to take the time to do it or not and whether its justified for their build or not. He asked for advice, so I gave him mine and you gave him yours. Neither one is "wrong", just different strokes for different folks!:beer
I just finished my rebuild , I went with the high volume oil pump from TA, put the lightest spring in it.Car runs 40-45 when warm and 65 on cold start up.Just in case you were thinking of going down that road.Cheers Curtis
i like using the end plate but that is due mainly to the fact that my end cover surface is usually less than perfect . it was mentioned somewhere by somebody that it acts as a "girdle" for the oil pump but not really sure what the extent of that physics class is . "girdled oil pump" sounds good if nothin else . low buck . del
Buick motors always had a weak oiling system because of all the bends it has to take from the pump to the motor. Any improvements you can do here will just be a plus for the engine. If the motor is going to be apart just do it and be done with it. Not cheap insurance, permanent insurance. Open up the passages, volume is key, not pressure. This is just simple physics. When the line gets smaller the pressure goes up but volume drops.
I should have said , I did open up my passages, I thought you may want to know what your pressure would be with a high volume pump.Cheers
I don't like the booster plates, they are just one more gasket to leak. To refinish a oil pump cover all you do is place a sheet of extremely fine sandpaper on a piece of glass, pour some ATF on the sandpaper and work the cover on it in a circular motion. The results will amaze you.:idea2:
:gp: Heres a decent article that gives you a fairly solid combo(Second combo down, below the LS2 blurb). Its an older article, but still relevant. Notice it mentions the oil mods and booster plates. Again, I'm not sayin its the only way it'll survive (Okay Carson?) but its a very popular procedure on these engines while being rebuilt. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0706_v8_engine_performance_parts/buick.html
Check out the oil mod that Jim Weise shows on the street 455 section. He shows just how this is done and the same mods can be used on the 350. That is a great post on this.
Im at WCTC in Waukesha, WI. Things that have come up so far in school: Im missing parts, like my pistons and connecting rods, which are buried in storage somewhere with the car im guessing, and this things has been apart for like 5 years and I don't know what bolts go to what. I can't find anything on bolt sizes and applications. Any one sell whole engine bolt kits?
http://gesslerheadporting.com/gessl...61b8fcbf32c014040525729400588fdc!OpenDocument http://taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=130 Hope that helps!
