Heh got it! :grin: Wasn't able to make it over there Friday, but I'm going over there for 20mins today to turn the engine over and check the timing chain. If I've done my research I will need a 15/16 socket to turn her over? That's one big-ass bolt . . .
Alright! Finally made it over to the car last night and measured about 1" of slop in the chain: Turned engine until distributor rotor was moving, stopped. Turned engine the other way and had about an inch or so before the rotor started turning. I repeated this test several times in different directions. So this means the timing chain is junk right?
Sounds like it. Pull distributer to make sure roll pin for gear is good. Then get a chain and gears. Gear likely had broken
I pulled the distributor when I fixed the coil wire, and when I turned the gear, the rotor would spin. That means the roll pin is ok right? Sorry I sound like a noob, I just want to make sure it really is the timing chain before I order the new parts from TA. :TU:
You can try two things first clean distributor gear an where the roll pin is with carb clean. Roll pin are hollow see if can see light through it . If not try a piece wire try poking though the center of the roll pin . Last thing can do is press out the roll pin with a 1/8 punch or little smaller to check to see if roll pin is broken, carefully don't hit the teeth on the gear.
You actually want to measure the slop in degrees on the balancer. 1 inch at the end of a long breaker bar is not that much at the crankshaft.
Got it, when I measured the inch, I was going off of how much the alternator belt moved. Is this inaccurate?
Went and re-measured today using the timing tab and balancer. Turned the engine right (direction of firing rotation) until the notch (0 mark?) on the balancer was lined up with zero on the timing tab. Then turned the engine left and the notch got a couple of degrees past the whole timing tab before the rotor turned. Since the timing tab is marked like this: ____________ + 8 | 4 | 0 ----------------- and the notch was about here when the rotor started turning: | ____________ | + 8 | 4 | 0 | ----------------- I read this as somewhere in the 12 to 14 degrees of slop range, which I'm guessing means new chain time. Am I correct?
What else could it be? As I said I plan to do the timing chain and change to HEI at the same time . . . Planning to order the double roller set from TA and their 350 HEI.
Several people have ordered the he I from them and have gotten a 455 gear on it. So check before you install. 1 has 13 teeth 1 has 14. I would pull valve covers and check all cam lobes. If you find a problem then your not doing the timing set twice. 14 degrees is a lot but in theory if you crank timing up to compensate it should start. Pull timing set and see if it has jumped a tooth. That would explain noise.
Copy that about the distributor gear, I just read another thread where a guy almost went crazy trying to figure out why his 350 wouldn't fire with a BB distributor! Looks like I need to pull the timing cover regardless. But how am I checking the cam lobes by just removing the valve covers? Do you mean taking off/out the rockers, pushrods and lifters to inspect for wear? Or checking lift with a dial indicator? Thanks!
You can have someone crank engine or turn by hand and make sure rockers all push on valves about same amount
Got it, that sounds easier p Not yet, but she (the owner) needs the garage cleared by October so I am going to try and get it running before then. If I can't I will try and buy it as is and finish repairs on my own turf. It's sort of an odd situation, if I was a sleaze I could just tell her that it needs a new engine and offer her a lower amount. But I want to get it running, and I think that if I can before October she would be happy. As it is now, she is paying for parts. What I'm thinking is giving her a price for either scenario. So say $1500ish for not running or $3000ish for running? What do you guys think the value is either way? The only rust I am aware of is the battery tray. Car was painted before being garage 10 years ago. Besides the engine I think it just needs tires to drive, not sure about the trans . . .
Forget about the dist for now, after all the old one must be working or it would not back fire. If you are set on doing the timing chain go get that, and the gaskets you will need. The only way to really tell what kind of shape the car is in is to take it to a garage and get some one to put it up on a hoist. Rust and rot can hide in areas you just can't see when crawling around on the ground no matter how hard you try.
Got it! I will talk to the owner and get on the timing chain. I guess the only way to verify rust ect is to get it running so I can drive it to a hoist, towing it would be a pain. Thanks again for everyone's help, I will try and take pics as I do the timing chain. Hopefully I don't break any bolts. Going to soak in PB blaster a few times, heat, cool, hit with hammer as instructed. Also going to buy a 1970 Chassis manual.
I would not put any $$$ or time in this car until you own it. You could get it running well and they could decide they want more $$$ or just to keep it. You'd lose your time and money. Don't become their patsiwhac. If you want to get it up on a hoist, trailer it or have it flatbed towed. Or, bring a floor jack, jackstands, a creeper and a good flashlight to check the frame and floors.
