350 Engine Noise

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by gsla72, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    Looking for a little advice on where to begin with my newest engine trouble. I had a little bit of time over the holidays to finally install my TA intake, MSD distributor/box, and rebuilt Q-jet (Thanks Mark!). The new intake, carb and distributor went in just fine, got the timing set in the ballpark, and the carb set at a baseline to fire.

    The good news is that the car started up and seemed to run well enough to start fine tuning the timing and carb settings. The bad news is that it now has what sounds like terrible lifter noise. I'm wondering if some gunk/coolant may have gotten into the head/lifters when I removed the old intake, but was hoping for some suggestions on how I could start checking things to make sure the motor isn't toast. I'm afraid to run the car too much until I figure things out with a bit more certainty.
  2. 67skylark27

    67skylark27 Brett Jaloszynski

    Did you change the oil and filter after you did the work? I would drain the oil and see what you've got
    in there.
  3. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    I did change the oil out - fresh oil and filter. Nothing suspicious came out in the drain pan.
  4. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    What is your oil pressure?
    Are you SURE the new distributor engaged the oil pump drive shaft?
    Those two questions are the most important to find the answers to.
    Max Damage and Mart like this.
  5. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    ☝ yes to above. ☝
  6. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    It seems like the distributor is in the right place, it seated all the way down. Is there any way I can double check to make sure it's 100%?

    Oil pressure - tough question. All the car has is an old rally pack gauge that has never been very accurate.
  7. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    The flange or collar that is clamped down should be flush on timing cover, with no gap. Visually look at it.
    You need a mechanical oil pressure gage, period. You won't be able to see what's happening with your oil pressure without it. You can tee off the block and run both a mechanical gage fitting and factory dash idiot light sensor if you want both.
    Max Damage and 300sbb_overkill like this.
  8. gsla72

    gsla72 Well-Known Member

    Update - you guys were spot on. The o-ring on the distributor shaft was preventing the distributor from mating up flush with the block. I had about 1/8'th of an inch or so gap between the flange and the timing cover. Removed the o-ring and the pressure is back where it should be. Hopefully no damage was done to the bearings in the interim.

    I did go ahead and get a full suite of gauges as well. Autometer Z-series going in for oil pressure, water temp, and a small tachometer as well. Thanks again everybody.
  9. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Yeah, there should be a flat circle gasket that goes there, not an O-ring.
  10. blyons79

    blyons79 Well-Known Member

    There's a gasket for the distributor???
    tubecatgs likes this.
  11. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    Isn't there just an o ring a little bit down the distributor shaft. I have never used a gasket....
    Mark Demko and blyons79 like this.
  12. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Oring should be in a groove.
    Mark Demko and blyons79 like this.
  13. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    On my 455 with a new o-ring I had to bump the starter to completely seat the distributor. It worked like magic. I firmed up the hold down first.
  14. jay3000

    jay3000 RIP 1-16-21

    No, There is an o-ring that fits in a grove.
  15. Reidk

    Reidk Well-Known Member

    The O ring makes it tough. Proform hei comes with Oring.

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