350 Engine mounts (1968).

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Max Damage, Mar 11, 2021.

  1. partsrparts

    partsrparts Silver Level contributor

    I must have put the v8 mounts in the v6 boxes, the 2383 & 2384 are v6 mounts and there is a big difference between them, let me look a little more.
     
  2. partsrparts

    partsrparts Silver Level contributor

    Yes, mixed up boxes, the right mounts for the 350 are #2281
     
    Dano likes this.
  3. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm Working on it!

    I think I need a picture or another description of this? Are you saying you bolted the frame mount to the engine mount?
     
  4. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    No. On mount only, Drill thru steel plate, thru rubber, & thru steel plate. The grade 5 or 8 bolt with locknut keeps the mount from separating while still providing rubber cushioning.
    Holes have to be spaced to not interfere with the long mount bolt, or the 2 block attaching bolts.
    Works as a hidden engine torque strap, without being a solid mount.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2021
    Dano likes this.
  5. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm Working on it!

    Is that for over power application where the standard rubber is insufficient?
     
  6. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    It's for hole shots when you hook real well and break the rubber loose.:D
     
  7. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm Working on it!

    So do these mounts usually separate at the point where the rubber meets the steel? Drilling through the rubber seems like it would weaken the rubber further.

    Partsparts should check this out, as he has the TA aluminum head monster 350...
     
  8. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Advance auto says 2281 isn't for a '70. Different for the later cars? I'll have to look further tonight
     
  9. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm Working on it!

    The Anchor Website has a parts identifier too? I would trust the manufacturer over the vendor. It says 2281 for a 1970 skylark 350.
     
    Dano likes this.
  10. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    I've always had them separate where the vulcanized rubber attaches to the steel.
    Dumping clutch at 4-5k with a 4 spd usually hard on mounts.
     
    72gs4spd likes this.
  11. partsrparts

    partsrparts Silver Level contributor

    I wouldn't go that far! I run the poly mounts, kinda like running solid mounts. My pass. side header only sits about a 1/4" from the upper control arm pivot bolt even with the tube dimpled and doesn't touch. with the rubber v6 mount under torque the header would lay on the bolt and give you a helluva vibration.
    Keith
     
    Dano and Max Damage like this.
  12. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Definitely trust the manufacturer site more so! - I checked as well before seeing your post & yes, 2281 is correct. The stuff Advance shows for a '70 GS is all messed up.

    Just ordered Anchor engine & trans mounts for both cars.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2021
  13. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    I think Mart must be the one with the monster 350, lol (did you see my PM?).

    Maybe the 60' times on the orig. build of my old 350 4-sp. sucked b/c I figured repeated dumping of the clutch @ 4-5k RPM would lead to a very short racing season. She was making good power though - Consistently ran 14.01 @104.

    Good advice/idea & cheap insurance actually against a broken fan shroud or (outwardly) dented hood. These things can & do happen.
     

Share This Page