i bought a new cam from a person on e-bay. i know ,i'm kicking my self as i type. anyhow found the specs. at MELLING parts co. the specs they gave me this info. duration@0.50/ 173 int./182 exh. advertised duration 242 int./262 exh. cam lift 207 int./ 216 exh. gross lift 310 int./324 exh. and a 105 int./ 106 exh. centerline. what in the world have i bought? i can't find these specs. on any buick 350 camshaft any where! how will it run in a stock rp code 69 buick 350? 10:25.1 motor. i talked to a local guy that runs buicks, he more or less tells me it will fall on its face at 3500 r.p.m. help!!!! pat myers
Good god.. thats worse than a stock cam.. I hope you didn't pay too much for it... Do yourself a favor and email Jim Burek and get a cam kit from him, his prices are very resonable. I got a Poston GS 114 cam kit (cam lifters springs) from him and put it in the 70 350 9:1 in my 69 GS 350 and that cam goes great up to 5800 and will rev over 6k in an otherwise stock engine... Do you have a 1969 Buick GS 350 ?
I read your original post, B4 anyone had replied, and went looking thru all of my books, and then over the 'net trying to find out exactly what you've got there... I came up empty-handed... You say you found the specs at mellings??? I could not find them. My advice is DONT YOU DARE put that cam in a 10.25 compression motor!!!!!!!!!!!!! The cylinder pressure would make that thing a detonation machine! If you've got "too much $$" tied up in it to just let it go, you could have it re-ground by Chet Herbert... Remember the "any grind for $39.95" Chet will cut the entire lobe down to increase lift/dur., and thus it will require either ajustable push rods, or you could mill the block and heads, but would then end up with 11:1 compression. That would make an interesting cam for a street blower/turbo, or in a very light car... Might give good MPG if nothing else... Maybe one of the guys here with one of those spiffy computer programs that tells you HP with different cams, compression, etc could plug in the numbers, and see what it says... Bottom line is, well basically.... I just dont knowo No: But I would not use this cam if performance was my goal...
rv. camshaft no, i dont have the car, just the motor. 58.32 is what i have in the cam. if anybody wants it ..... give me a yell. i bought the rp code motor from a local salvage yard for $100.00. started right up. misfire was found to be a burnt #3 exh. valve, no problem i have some older 350 heads , changed it runs o.k. but wants to ping. pulled a bunch of dist. timing out . helped a little, but kinda slow now. cam looked tired when i had the intake off. i was looking for a mild cam to put in with a cheap rebuild kit i found. btw. this is in a 81 regal. i would like to smack some mustangs at our local 8th. mile track this summer with the little 350. if i can trade or sell my new jeepster cam!! lol
OK, I'v got one for ya... Go to www.crower.com, and click on the "garage sale" icon at the bottom of the home page. They have a selection of out of production/overstock cams on a clearance sale. The #50260 looks like a nice cam for your application. 108* LC 296/302 dur. 230/242 @ .050 317/314 lobe lift 507/504 valve lift Price- $60, brand new I'v been told that .500 lift is the max you can use on a buick 350 without having the pistons notched. That 507/504 is gonna be close... Call and ask T/A or Jim Burek to be sure. If you have not had the heads/block milled, and use a thicker composite head gasket you *should* be ok. That cam is just about the limit on a street cam, and would benefit from headers/intake quite a bit. Should make a G-body regal fly!!! Especially if you've got a good gear in the rear-end, and about a 2500 converter. Good luck, keep us posted on the progress, and happy mustang hunting:laugh:
Those look like the same specs on a Crower cam I picked up at a local car show/swap meet. Got mine for similar money. Has anyone used this cam?? I've already got the TA intake and headers. Scott
Found it!!!!! Your cam is an MPG big car replacement cam, designed to increase cylinder pressure and MPG in an 8:1 big car from the late 70's. Not much use at all in a "mustang eating" regal, and not recommended for 9:1 or higher engines. Power range is idle to 3500, redline is 5000 The crower is very similar to a T/A 413 cam. T/A lists the 413 as: Good bracket cam, but still streetable. Strong mid range, top end power. Stock rockers OK, but recommend TA 1.6 rollers. TAsprings, retainers, and lifters a must! 9.5 compression [or higher] recommended, moderate idle. The TA 413 has .500 lift at the valve, and does not require notching... They dont say anything about not using power brakes, but I'll bet it's right at the limit... The crower looks like a great cam, especially for the price!
This cam at 230/240 at .050 will be pretty hairy for a 350 Buick, don't get me wrong, it will run strong, but probably not a good choice for a mild application. One more time, it's not valve lift you need to worry about with piston to valve clearance, its overlap duration at top dead center. When the valve is at full lift, the piston is never,ever, ever close to the top of the cylinder. Jim Burek
I'd just like to note, if you go with a cam with a lift higher than like .450 you NEED high performance valve springs. Also, if you are gonna rev over 5000 you NEED high performance valve springs. I have a Poston GS 114 cam in my 69 350 (w/70 9:1) and I didn't put the high performance springs in and at over 5000 rpms the valves would float and althogh it still was pulling there was a lot of power lost. unfortunatley the last time I went to the track was before I put the springs in so I was only able to get 14.99. After I put the springs in the engine felt much more powerful and SMOOTHER at the higher revs. That particular cam is good for 5800 rpm. Also, I noticed on the crower that the centerline was 108. I read in an article in Car Craft i think that the longer the stroke of the engine the larger the centerline number should be for better performance... Was a while ago since I read the article and this is all from memory. But based on that I'd pick a cam between 112 and 118... The Buick 350 has a VERY long stroke, in fact, the 455's stroke is only .05" longer than the 350's stroke. (3.85" to 3.90")
thanks big-d, jim and everybody thanks for the help. i'll do what you gentlemen are saying. and find a cam. if anyone wants the RV cam ,e-mail me. thanks again, pat myers
i hear ya brett funds are tight and buick parts are not cheap! thought i had found a bargain. jumped in , both feet!!! lol:error:
Shneider Racing Cams If your not in a hurry, Scheider Racing Cams will custom grind you a cam for $112. From what I understand, he grinds all of the cams sold by T/A. His websight isn't much to speak of, but heres how to find him: http://www.schneidercams.com/ He did a real nice job on my buick cam. I have a 10:1 motor with the 488/502 lift , 230/238 duration @ .50 on 112 degrees. I went with the longer exhaust lift due to restrictions of manifolds. My engine compartment is so tight that I cant even fit shorty headers in there. :Brow: I am using stock rockers, with hipo springs. My input on this is dont install a cam like this without beefing up the rest of the motor. Youll just end up pulling it back out kicking yourself for not doing it right. You may also want to do some research on the heads. The early 70's heads had a higher compression, but the later heads flowed better and had the harder seats. Good luck! That trailer cam would be a good road rage weapon if nothing else? Nothing like being beaten by a buick...... :grin: -Jon
rv cam retard??? guys, what if i retard the rv cam 4 or 8 degrees? would that help or should i start robbing my piggy bank for camshaft $$$$
get a new one Degreeing such a poor cam is not gonna do much for ya. Also, remember, if you go with a hi-po cam, you have to match the rest of the motor for it. Thos tall cams require a lot of flow through the heads and headers etc. Without it, youll actually be slower than stock. I would recommend a cam slightly over stock from N/Aparts.com or Poston. You can get them for like $80 and a set of lifters for bout $35. Check out another place called flatlanderracing.com I couldn't believe their prices on Buick rebuilds. I bought a set from them and was relatively happy. Master Rebuild kit was $289 if I remember correct. Email me if you need more info. -Jon monziac@hotmail.com
cam shafts postons cams rang from 139.00 to 149.00 cam kits are 1968-69 369.00 1970&up 349.00 plus shipping 1-800-635-9781 ask for jim poston or tony Peter Seagraves 72&65 skylark best 13.01@103.98
