Thanks! Though I can't take credit for it. Just need it to thaw outside and can see how it works! Think the OP will be very happy if he decides to go this route.
IF you do try the holley 750 out ( #3310 manual choke or #80457 electric choke version ) go with the original jetting , power valve specs , shooter size etc - THEN make your adjustments . a new one will run ya about $300-350 . a decent used one will be anywhere from $75-150 then need to be gone through . swaps , e-bay , craigslist . make sure ya know what you are lookin at . contact me if needed - i can check carb numbers , jet specs etc and gasket kit part numbers ya can use . or even just tell me a price on something you are lookin at . others on here can do same . also check out the quick fuel slayer 750 - same basic carb , same price range with electric choke and some extra tuning features included . those you will not find used probably . Q-JET - you'll want to contact ken/mark for an exact quote but if you send one of them a good ( ( good ! + complete ! ) QJet core i'm guessin it may cost ya about $200-300 . and they can tell ya what carb part numbers to look for that'll work well for your combo . no adustments needed , good response , good mileage . so really no extra $$ . DO NOT use a generic rebuilt carb . EFI - three grand + ! there ya go . spend a few extra bucks and get your cam lifters springs etc from same source . my comfort level is a little higher doing it that way . plus they can't come back on ya and say you missmatched parts if there's a problem ( normally bad break in procedure ) . just thinkin out loud . good luck with the car .
What about a COMP cams kit. that includes valves, lifters, chain, and cam? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k92-200-4/overview/make/buick http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k92-203-4/overview/make/buick http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k92-600-5/overview/make/buick http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k92-202-4/overview/make/buick???????
You want a cam that has more exhaust duration than intake duration. That helps the exhaust side on a stock head.
I had the comp 260. I was not impressed. You would be better off with the 212. A bump in compression would help . .030 off heads would give about 50-51 cc . which be about 8.2/8.3 . with ported big valves ,the 212 and a single plane intake I bet you could make some power.
I am in the process of doing a mild port job on my heads. Gasket match, blend bowls, polish chamber. None of those cams would work good?
The Crower level 2 or the ta 212 would be best for your low compression engine. But even those cams would be better with more compression.it will produce more lower end torque also. I would not polish chambers unless your going to turbocharge or use nitrous. You will just lower your compression more if you polish chambers. You already are pulling heads to port mill the heads for Alittle extra compression.
The sbb Comp cam stuff is sbc cam patterns ground on a sbb cam core that leaves power on the table. The Crower line of sbb cams from what I have read here seem to be really good as well as the TA cam grinds. Maybe Gary can chime in and give you a better opinion because I wouldn't use any of those cams, I wouldn't eff around and would step up to a roller cam. GL Derek
How important is degreeing a TA-212 cam? This is the cam I went with and I would like to know if it is worth the $100 of extra tools to degree the cam properly. or if there is a simpler way. thanks!
Just advance can 4 degrees if its a low compression engine . it could use Alittle more cylinder pressure. Crowers cams are designed to enhance cylinder pressure to make more low end torque. Scott brown custom ground cams are only 18 bucks more then a ta cam and we have seen a low compression 370 make 400 plus HP with mild porting and big valve. I feel this is the way to go and the off the shelf cams are what's holding these engines back from making some good power.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1132. How is this set would you think? If I were to get this timing set. Would I just have to align the keyways with another slot?
That set will be good. Read direction to what marks to align. It will have a dot(zero),a square (retard) and a triangle (advance) on crank gear. Don't remember how cam gear is set on that one . might share mark for all three.
It is mandatory to degree ANY cam. That is the only way you can be sure it is installed correctly. I think you can send the cam and timing set to JW and he will degree it for you.
It is best to check it as some have reported can was ground wrong. My theory is that a low compression engine is not as critical for the power gain your going for. But doesn't hurt to check it.
Unfortunately, using the 4* keyway does not mean that the cam will be 4* advanced as it should be. It would be nice if things were that simple, but they aren't for a variety of reasons. I know that is not what you want to hear, but the bottom line is you can't be sure unless you degree it.
This is what I was talking about before in other threads concerning stock cams/trusted grinds vs who knows the hell ground it 'custom' grind. Stock cam + stock timing gear/chain = no degreeing/no worries/proper valvetrain geometry. Perhaps best of all, they're made in larger batches with the specs set up properly so that every cam will match properly no matter which one you choose. No worries about someone misgrinding a one-shot custom deal. Much of this depends on the grinder, I know, and there are some great grinders out there. But hey, we're all human. Smaller aftermarket grinds are great for someone who doesn't do anything else to the bottom end, so the DCR is better matched vs the stock cam; otherwise, match compression to stock cam IVC point to whichever grade of fuel you wish you use. Smaller aftermarket grinds lower and tighten the powerband, which when matched with low comp and early IVC point, is the reason they give more power/low end torque over the stock grind. If you plan on doing some machine work to the deck and heads, match it up with whichever cam you want to use, set your DCR to the grade of fuel you wish to use, and give yourself a small margin of error should anything be slightly off. This way, even if things are off a bit, it won't throw things too far out of whack (doggy bottom end, pinging on premium, etc.). The stock cam/timing gear will be accurate to + or - 1-2 degrees (which INCLUDES the chain stretch/wear-in). Adjust DCR accordingly to accommodate. DCR will have a span ranging about .2-.3 points. Yet another reason to use the stock cam and stock timing gear/chain. You're not giving up as much power as you think when DCR is set up properly to the grade of fuel you'll use. Put on the TA intake and a set of large tube primary headers, calibrate that Q-jet for more airflow, clean up the heads and polish the exhaust runners, and watch that stock cam wake the frick up. Just be sure to use a 2000-2500 stall with it along with a 3.73-3.23 gear for best results. Not to mention it'll outlast any other camshaft you could put in it (add in a set of Crower cam-saver hydraulic lifters to add 20%-30% extra lifespan) and you can use (new) stock valve springs that you won't have to swap out after cam break-in. Speed Pro CS647 camshaft. Made by Federal Mogul. Use a 180 or 195 thermostat (I recommend 195). Drop DCR about .1-.2 points to accommodate and the extra heat will make your engine last longer and give better fuel economy. It also keeps your oil cleaner for more miles per oil change. Less emissions. GM did a study that showed engines have less than half the wear on them when running at 185* instead of 160*. Do your homework. That's my 2c. Do with it what you will. Best of luck to you. Gary
