You sure stuck with him through the challenges though and it worked out well. At least that mega squirt will be very adaptable if he wants to make changes later on. The “smart” self tuning Efi are great when they work properly and very frustrating when they don’t. I will be featuring his build in my upcoming book. So I will have to get some more info from you and chris.
Last I heard he was going to a dual exhaust and maybe less restrictive air intake plus Electric Power steering. I PM'd him on the Mgexperience site. He had the second 300 Stroker after the Hot Rod Dave Nelson motor. I may be able to help with your book some too.
Duffy, if you follow the HRM build you would be WAY further ahead with a set of small journal aftermarket sbc 6.00" rods. The small journal sbc rods have a 2.00" rod journal size so no offset grinding or excessive grinding required. Just make sure when the big end is being machined that the sbc bearings are in there so if they are to wide they get narrowed when the rods get that done to them. With the sbc rod that is 6.00" vs the sbb 300 rod that is 5.965" gives you an extra .035" of length so not as much or possibly no piston clearancing would have to be done vs using the sbb 300 rods. A big plus would also be that you won't have to machine as much off of the deck using the Olds 307 piston with rods with an extra .035" of length. The standard blueprint deck dimension for a sbb 300 is 9.543". Not sure about the sbb 300 blocks but the sbb 350 blocks have around at least and extra .030" more deck height compared to what the blueprint dimension for that block is supposed to have. So if you wanted to use that Olds piston with the sbb 300 rods with the blueprint dimension that makes the piston .058" in the hole! That's not counting any additional material the factory may have left for you. The 6.00" sbc rods would take up .035" of that for less deck machining to end up only .023" + any extra material left on the deck from the factory.(which can still be over .050" but won't be more than .080" that it would be with the inferior cast Buick rod!) From .940" sbc width to .845" sbb width, make sure you make the chamfered side about .060" thicker than the non-chamfered side for the proper sbb offset. That means that with the sbc rod that is .940" that .090" needs to be removed from the thickness of the big end but not the same amount per side. To make them .060" offset you take the .090" - .060" = .030" now /that by 2 and take .015" off of the chamfered side and the other .015" off of the non-chamfered side. That leaves you with a rod that still has a zero offset with .060" more to take off, now take the .060" off of the non-chamfered side to make them have a .060" offset. So basically take .075" off of the non-chamfered side and .015" off of the chamfered side. Before you dive in and start machining though, make sure there is enough material on the non-chamfered side TO take off .075"! If not, get as close as you can and take the rest off of the non-chamfered side. Install the bearings before the thickness is narrowed so if anything needs to be removed from the sbc bearing thickness, they'll be taken down with the rods. Bearing catalog says they are .842" wide, thinner than the .845" thickness of the rod but may not be centered in a .060" off set rod? The wristpin will also need to be opened up just like they would need to be with the 300 rods but from .927" to .980" instead of .940" to .980". No biggie though, the bushing in the sbc rods should be at least .030" of the .053" that needs removed.(.0265" per side) The good part is that now the low end can handle a roller cam that makes power higher than 4,500 RPM(actually will handle 7,000 + RPM with the better ones) if you send the heads to the guy that ports Dan J's heads for the 200/150, or even better, the TA Rover heads out of the box @ 225 intake CFM! That is if you wanted to, the low end would only be limited by those crappy pistons! GET RID OF THOSE CAST RODS! Even the Chinesium ones from eBay would be better than the cast stocker rods! They make the small journal aftermarket rods up to 6.125"(5.700", 6.00", 6.125") if in you can find a closer piston for that length? here is a sample set on eBay; https://www.ebay.com/itm/SIR6000SBL...985248&hash=item2f124d1fa7:g:XCkAAOSw~B1aS7L5 The 6.125" ones are a bit more serious and cost a bit more; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-CRS6...937186&hash=item2cbc5fd6bf:g:NxEAAOSwWflaCchF The best an easiest piston to use for a sbb stroker build is the customizable AutoTec pistons. I can PM you the link if you can't find them. You can choose the 6.200" rods you like the best or get the best deal on and have the AutoTecs made with the wristpin and compression distance you need to run with them. They're sold as a piston, wristpin and ring kit so if you choose a bore size that has better rings available you'll get the better rings with your pistons. Using the above pistons you can add or subtract, or keep the same stroke, whatever you want.
Thanks so much for taking the time to fill me in on that! I didn't realize there would be so much extra deck height. I've been bugging my buddy to help me get the 340 crank and balancer, so hopefully that happens soon. I'm still looking over rod and piston options. It seems that the hyper Sil-vo-lites have pretty good (though nothing like fordged) durability though right?
Inbetween stock and forged. Quieter when cold because tighter clearances. Fine for the street. On my next build I plan to ceramic coat the top and moly coat the skirts. Stock Hyper 3800 Supercharged pistons have anodized tops.
Duffy, you need to definitely keep the chamber volume in mind here. IIRC the 300 has the largest chambers and the TA heads have the smallest. So if you build for the 300 heads then swap them out you may find yourself running gasahol. OTOH, planning for the TA heads means the 300 head CR will be pretty low. I haven't run the numbers to get the exact amount it would change. Jim
Yeah my thinking is that if I even went to TA heads I would probably be looking for a more maximum performance motor, so the extra compression would be desired anyway. While I'm sorting out how exactly I want to approach the rotating assembly, I was wondering if there is any prep work I should be doing to the block? The drain backs in the lifter valley look quite jagged, so I already planned on taking care of that. Anything else? I'm figuring if its free, I might as well do it even if its not going to make a huge difference on a modest street motor.
Keep in mind hyperutetic pistons don’t take detontation very well . So what how hi you run compression.
So the 4bbl intake is on its way, and my buddy is waiting for warmer, dryer days before we go get the 340 crank and other goodies. Question--how much should I worry about boring with a torque plate? I tried to find one I could rent and have whatever shop I end up with use it, but I can't seem to find any even for sale. Is this one of those "race prep" things or more of a necessity?
