Hello, I recently have begin work on my 1972 Buick Skylark Convertible. I was wondering two things if any one was willing to help: The Steering Wheel is Off - First, the steering wheel is not lined up properly is sits quite a bit to the left when the wheels are straight. How would I go about fixing this? The Steering is Very Loose - This car may not have had any work done to the suspension for decades, so I'm wondering other Buick owners' thoughts on what would cause the steering to be really loose. I understand these older cars don't have quite the same tight steering that newer vehicles have, but I feel like I'm driving a ship with a captain's wheel. Any thoughts on how to tighten up the suspenion or what to look for? New tie rods? Thanks for your help! Ben
Several things can be the problem from a bad rag joint to a worn out steering box. Have the steering linkage, idler arm, pitman arm, rag joint, control arm bushings checked even ball joints can cause wandering and loose feeling. Good thing everything you will need is just a wanted post away. As to the steering wheel being off the last person to work on it did not have it centered when he had it aligned ( if its been aligned)
There are lots of things that can cause loose steering, the most common are worn front end components. You can straighten the steering wheel by loosening the clamps on the tie rod sleeves and turning the sleeves in the same direction. Can't tell you which way, you'll have to experiment, just turn them each the same amount of revolutions, then see if the steering wheel is centering or getting worse. If worse, go the other way.
There is no reason you can't get the steering to be as good as a new car on these old cars. Both my GS cars have tight steering and they don't wander all of the road. So, getting the slop out and centering the wheel should be easy to diagnose and reasonably cheap to fix though it may take some parts, time, tools and effort. I have replaced every single component on my 70 Stage 1 at least once and some of them twice already. Most stuff is not expensive and available at Rock Auto, Amazon and your local parts stores. As mentioned by the previous posters, I would check all the suspension points. In my experience, the first to go are usually the idler arm and the lower ball joints. Second is the upper A-arm bushings. Also check the upper ball joints, drag link, lower A-arm bushings and tie rod ends. Any one of them will make the steering sloppy. It is a cumulative problem so fixing one thing may make it better but there can be multiple issues on an old car. The more things bad, the sloppier it will be. Once you've fixed any issues with the suspension, you can move on to the rag joint, the lower steering shaft bearing, upper steering shaft bearing and the under dash steering support. If those are loose, replace or tighten as necessary. I mention the steering shaft bearings but they aren't common failure items but check them any way. Finally, if all that checks out, the slop is probably in the gear box. You can use an allen wrench and a wrench to adjust some play out of it. Do NOT go crazy with this adjustment. Move the allen bolt in about an 1/8 turn at a time. Unless it has 100,000 miles of off-road abuse, you won't go more than 1/2 turn. You want to turn the allen bolt down and then the outer nut locks it in. The way you can tell you've gone too far is the wheel will no longer self center after a turn. As for the off center wheel, you said it points left when rolling straight? Assuming this is a front steer car (tie rods in front of the wheels and not behind them), what you need to do is loosen all 4 tie rod adjuster clamps and open up (lengthen) the left side tie rod distance about 1/2 turn and close (shorten) the right side the same 1/2 turn. All that does is moves both wheels relative to the pitman arm. It might take a little trial and error to get it right. Just be sure to tighten the clamps before you road test.
Usually its one turn in and one turn out on each sleeve. But I wouldn't recommend the OP address the issue that way. The OP probably doesn't have the sleeve wrench and using vice grips make me cringe every time...hate seeing jaw marks. The only thing you'll likely do is throw the toe off. And you have to orient the clamps the right way when you retighten them- very important. The best thing the OP can do is bring it to a reputable mechanic/ front end shop and have him check over the whole front suspension and steering. If its really loose as you say, stop driving it until you check it out!!
I'm no front end guy but I've always had to put the tie rod clamps with the bolt down once I convert to a Trans Am 1.25" sway bar. Done several, my own being the first 35 years ago and never had a problem with it. What is the proper orientation and why if you care to elaborate?
OK, so that is the least likely random combination since we are only talking about 10 of total circumference. Is there a reason behind it?
Yes, but a rookie would probably have a 100% probability of doing that!! :laugh: I don't think you get the right 360 degree clamping force/ I guess there is the possibility of the tie rod popping out of the sleeve if installed improperly. I remember it being an ASE question years ago
Usually when there is a warning like that there is also a cautionary tale that goes along with it, sometimes with gruesome pictures, like why you don't wear a ring when working with equipment.
Wow, thank you all! This is some great input, and will absolutely look into all the suggestions you mentioned. Unfortunately, I live in Minnesota and the Buick is wrapped up snug in the garage for Winter, so I can't immediately troubleshoot it. My plan is to work on this issue first thing in Spring when it's more reasonable to be in a non-heated garage. One last question, if I were to replace the tie rods and then went to get it realigned, can I just take it to any auto shop or do you have any recommendations with a car from the early 70's? Thanks again, Ben
It is vitally important that this particular adjustment be done with the front wheels off the ground and the wheels pointed straight ahead before losening the jam nut and turning the Allen screw. Once the wheels are off the ground, move the steering wheel back and forth and get a feel for the resistance. Then as Greg said, turn the Allen screw about 1/8 of a turn at a time. Turn the steering wheel back and forth again to see if there is any difference. This is a particular sensitive adjustment and it is possible for the adjustment to be made, get out on the road and all of a sudden you are in a turn and can't bring the steering wheel back by force let alone self centering.
