Right the fuel 3/8" are olive green. I have to agree with Jason about the hoses. If you really want them, there is a seller on ebay that has them, single crimp, red stripe, etc, for like 300. pr. I suspect they are new repro, they say they are NOS but I doubt it. I know there is another seller on ebay that's hooked closely to The Parts Place. He supposedly has NOS trunk mats but they go on ebay all the time, they never seem to sell. If they do sell they sell ultra high, then...presto...he just happens to find another one in his bottomless barn 4 months later! You have to be careful on ebay. That said, I can appreciate you want the car concours. I know what it takes, I have 2 Senior Nats champs I built and I judge, also. Judges only have so much time to judge. I have over the counter brake hoses which have gold cad ends, I scored 999 last time out at the OCA Nat's. They are not going to check your brake hoses, they are probably not going to see if your upper ball joints are riveted, bolted, or have fake rivet bolts. NCRS Top Flight...probably does. Maybe the GS Concours Nats does...I don't know. You need some way to seperate the best from the very best! I have a Delco script cap, embossed belts and coil, green stripe plugs etc. Stuff you can see. Stuff you can't see and will never be seen I'm not to concerned about. It IS nice to have everything exact, I can appreciate that. I love that kind of detail, but...you have to draw the line somewhere. Unless you are Jay Leno or something! I'm just sayin.........
Truthfully, I still don't know how far i want to take this restoration.. I guess i'd rather set the bar high until i figure out how correct i want it other than have to go back and replace parts when the car is done. I am not shooting for a number one car, but i want to stay competetive. Again, I'm sidetracking from the subject a little bit, but i need to see if anyone agrees with me- Is it not frustrating how so many people don't know anything about buick muscle cars? Everyone worships the chevelles, camaros, chargers, and mustangs.. I'm a fan of the underdog, which i believe will soon become a top dog in classic restorations. I'm thankful for this forum. I've learned more about my car in one hour than i learned about engineering in 4 years of college!
I see...actually when I was thinking about the hoses...maybe 2 crimps are required now! Well....only you can decide how far you want to take it. It really depends on how much time + money you have to do the car. See what others say. But...bare in mind peeps will tell you do to it right, even though their cars are not finished. You also have to consider how much you can invest and get a return on.
Jason, The yellow hose clamps were slightly smaller usually for 5/16" vapor lines. They did no use these until 71. The only place on the fuel system they used these was at the fuel sending unit at the tank. In 70 they used black there. I am guessing they changed to yellow in 71 because the black 5/16" was too close in size to the bigger black clamps used on the brake booster hose. Not sure why they decided to use a smaller clamp on this part of the fuel system only when olive was used on the rest of the fuel system. I figured this all out by checking all the part numbers and then checking junk yard and original cars. I found the yellow clamps at the tank on my friends 72 Hurst Olds as well. Also if you check the part #s on the oveflow jug you will see it is the same olive clamp used on most of the fuel system.
UPDATE- see pics. we'll be putting the motor and tranny in soon. I'm taking the restoration to a higher level than i initially wanted to and doing everything as correct as i can. Mostly because of some of the Buicks i've seen down in Bowling Green and other places. learning the meaning of patience..... Comment on my pictures if something catches your eyes. Thanks, Justen
Justen, I can't tell, but is that your gas line/return line sticking out towards the center of the engine bay? If so they need to be routed through the frame and come out close to the gear box.
Looks good. A better match for the yellow clips is caterpiller yellow from Tractor Supply. The frame is a little too glossy for me. If you are putting a vynal top back on be sure to paint the roof and use the correct top from Legendary. Do not use the fuzzy back stuff.
Looks good...oh man....54rich just saved you big time, I think! You can fix the fuel lines pretty easily now, but no way you could have done it easily later. Good eyes there 54rich...I can't believe I missed that.
Looks good. Nothing wrong woth going the extra mile. You can then not worry about thinking you had done it better. You even got the parking brake clips in the rear. Most people miss those Because they fell off years ago. ---------- Post added at 10:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 PM ---------- Justen, Rich is correct. Both fuel line need to go through the frame and out the front. The fabric protects them inside the frame. You need to disconnect them from the halfway hose connections and feed the steel lines through the front first then re-connect the hoses.
I am going to reroute the fuel lines tonight. thanks for the feedback, guess i didnt read the assembly manual close enough. it sucks not being the guy who took the car apart! Hard to tell, but the roof is painted in the picture, my body guy just never wasted his time (and my money) buffing any of it out. Thanks again, i'll post more pictures as the project develops.
Does anybody know anything about the "shield" that is shown in the assembly manual that supposedly goes between the engine mount bracket and the engine block on the right side (passenger side)? I don't have the part anywhere. Is there someone who sells these?
Yes, It is a thin sheet metal shield only used on the right side. They usually rotted or got tossed. I think someone may have made these. Nick from Ivyland maybe?
Thanks, he does have them for sale. Have you noticed that the engine mounts differ from left to right on the assembly manual (even different part numbers), but they are the same when you go to buy them? Not sure if mine are original or not, but they are identical. Every place you look they only sell one part number to fit the right and left side...
In 71 they changed to one part number. All NOS units sold at a later time would have been superceeded to the later part number that was the single multi sided unit. Is there a GM or maybe two GM part numbers on the side of the mounts? If there is no part number they are aftermarket mounts. I used two 71 part number NOS units on my 70 GSX without a problem.
no GM part numbers. these things must be aftermarket. it is my understanding that the block cracked and was replaced back in the day. That is what the previous owner told my dad when he bought it. the casting number on the block is correct, but that would explain why the engine mounts are aftermarket. I'll most likely use the ones i have.
Does anybody know if someone offers a detailing kit of some sort to complete all the factory markings/paint dabs/tags on the chassis?
I make/sell the chassis sticker/tag kits for some year Gran Sports. My standard kit includes the following; Frame Front Swaybar Rear Swaybar (if needed) F&R Springs F&R Shocks Master Cylinder then I also sell a deluxe kit that includes all the above plus the following stickers; Throttle cable Steering Box Driverside Valve Cover The sticker sets I sell are put together for the specific car model/options that come on that particular car. This is not a "generic" set. The price and availability depends on the year and type kit you are looking for. Duane