1968 GTO 4-speed in a 1972 Skylark?

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by StageTwo, Dec 17, 2012.

  1. StageTwo

    StageTwo It's a Beauty Too.

    So my friend has a '68 GTO (400ci) with a 4-speed that he's restomodding and wants to put a Tremec 6-speed in it. Says he's willing to sell the 4-speed (and all related parts) to me for my '72 Skylark. Of course I told him he should probably keep the original parts for his car in case he wants them later, but he's not even sure if it's the original transmission. So, I'm considering buying it since all the parts should be there as the car is in running order right now, but I want to make sure they'll all work in my Skylark. I don't really want to make the purchase only to find out I need a bunch of Buick-specific stuff to make it work. Anyone know if it's a straight forward swap?
     
  2. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    it should be a muncie transmission m21 or m20 and that is what the buicks used. someone will pipe in with more exact fit details.
     
  3. Clanceman427

    Clanceman427 Hardtops need not apply

    First thing is find out the transmission type. I say this because some were close ratio and some were wide ratio. Now, based on your car description is sounds like you have a strong big block and healthy rear gear 3.42 which would work with a close ratio. Me for example, I only have a stock 350 and a 3.0 rear gear, so a close ratio would not be fun for me because 1st gear is more like 2nd gear compared to a wide ratio. So no bottom end grunt.

    The main thing I know with Pontiacs is that they have the starter on the driver's side, Buick is pass. side. I've seen some factory bellhousings with both starter bump outs, but I don't know if his has both, or maybe an aftermarket bellhousing. Also, mechanical clutch linkage needs a ball threaded into your engine block. And, the crank needs a pilot bushing, what crank do you have? Some cranks, depending on origin, do not have the hole completely machined for a pilot bushing. Answer those questions first and see if you still want to do it is my advice before deciding. All of these can be overcome, just depends on how much time and money will be spent.
     
  4. staged70

    staged70 RIP

    Equalizer bar is Buick only pedals will work. The floor hump is different but you could use the Pontiac part with no console. If you just want it to work you might be able to get it to work with a little effort but you'll need the Buick EQ bar and maybe the lower adj rod, clutch fork ect. You will need to get a pilot bushing and make sure it fits the crank I have been reading about some problems there.
     
  5. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    IMHO, if you are serious about converting your BUICK to a stick car, buy new parts where possible but buy BUICK parts. It is a quite an undertaking and expense as it is, let alone introduce old used parts and Pontiac parts to boot. You'll never be done working on it / throwing money at it only to end up with New BUICK parts when all said and done.....
     
  6. Davis

    Davis Moderator

    I would still consider a wide ratio M20 for a 3.42 rear.

    M20 2.52 (first gear ratio) x 3.42 (rear end ratio) = 8.6184

    M21 2.20 (first gear ratio) x 3.73 (rear end ratio) = 8.206

    Unless the engine is built with a specific narrow powerband I see no reason for a close ratio on a BBB street/strip car.
     
  7. StageTwo

    StageTwo It's a Beauty Too.

    Thanks for the input, guys. Sounds like it's not going to be as simple as I thought. I'm not really in the mood to be chasing around hard-to-find parts and/or modifying things on a car that is far from being broken right now. :) I'll just go back to driving it!
     
  8. KELLY SONNABEND

    KELLY SONNABEND Well-Known Member

    It's not that hard to do, you can check out my thread on my Kiesler RS600 auto to manual swap and the other swap threads on this sight. You can buy all parts new. The 2 big issues are weather your crank is drill for the pilot bushing, and Z bar, my crack wasnt the right size but my block was drill for the Z bar, so i went with the Dick Miller racing, Pilot bearing that goes in the tourque converter slot. I will run that untill i need to pull the moter, then i will have my crack ground for the prober bushing, because a bushing will last longer. Also you need to modifiy the Small block Z bar and linkage to the fork ,to make it work, if you have headers, but i dont know if you still need to with manifolds. You can find the Z bar stuff for big block if you look hard enough, i work in metal fabricating so it was EZ for me to modify. You could also go with a hydro throwout bearing set up, but you would have to search that also, but there are Buick guys that have done it.http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?248085-Kiesler-rs600-auto-to-manual-convertion[

    ---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------

    What is a equalizer bar? Buick and Pontiac Brake and clutch pedal sets are the same (bolt in type, chevy clip in type wont work).
     
  9. staged70

    staged70 RIP

    What is a equalizer bar? Buick and Pontiac Brake and clutch pedal sets are the same (bolt in type, chevy clip in type wont work
    What you call a Z bar . I have used pontiac and olds pedals before never used the chevy ones
     
  10. KELLY SONNABEND

    KELLY SONNABEND Well-Known Member

    Thanks, just never heard it called that, only bell-crank, or Z bar.
     

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