This block had .030 over pistons already and as deep as the gouges in the cylinder are i dont see it cleaning up with less that a addition .020 taken out. What is the max over stock bore that is recommended for these engines? Will not be racing or driven hard.This is a numbers marching GS so trying to keep the original block. Going to look into re-sleeving on monday when L A SLEEVE is open. Anyone re sleeve one of these.
Yeah, that's ugly. The chunks 'n' pieces blew through the intake manifold into the other cylinders. ALL of the other cylinders need to be checked for debris damage, including but not limited to damaged pistons and bent valves. It's possible--but somewhat unlikely or at least less-likely--that some debris could cross into the other plane of the manifold if there's an interconnection point--an open carb spacer, or even a cutout in the manifold at the carb pad, like they used to do to fit a Holley 3-barrel. Add a little exhaust reversion, and a lot of bad luck, and I can imagine debris blowing out the exhaust of the one cylinder, and blowing into another cylinder via the exhaust crossover. CLEAN EVERYTHING. Sleeving a block is no big deal if done properly, and probably better than losing more cylinder-wall thickness on all the others. Make sure your machinist leaves a step at the bottom for the sleeve to seat against; and ideally the top of the bores get "square-decked" which they likely need whether or not there's a sleeve. If this were MY engine, it'd get "zero-decked" after selecting pistons with proper compression height instead of crappy stock or "de-stroked" "rebuilder" pistons. Honing with a torque plate is recommended. In any event, you need to figure out why that piston exploded. Detonation is a likely cause, and you cannot let that happen again.
Yes debris was all over the engine internals. I have had L A SLEEVE do some harley cylinders about 30 yrs ago and they are still in service. They have been doing resleeving for a long time . They got it down pat so no worries there. Just got to decide on pistons first. I acquired the car in this condition. It happened on an overheating incident in a peak rush hour L A frwy. Engine all apart. Fresh rebuild from bottom up. My concern about decking is that the factory numbers will disappear or is that something that can be done without touching the numbers?
No way to deck the block without touching the numbers. Some will re-stamp, but it is obvious as the surface after decking is not the same as the method used originally. (swirl from decking vs straight cut lines from broaching)
I would take photos of your deck, document your process and get it Notarized and do a re-stamp. Depending on how much needs to be taken off the deck, sometimes the miller cutter does not have to go all the way to the numbers. Just far enough for the head gaskets to fit. I've seen this done. That said, I would ask Jim W, what is possible or not.
Wow! I'm surprised you were able to turn the motor over by hand before breaking it down.. I think you have no option but to deck the block and the heads some. You know how massive over heating can distort a block. How little to true it up though?? There should be other numbers on the block to verify it being original. You don't see signs that it was decked on the previous rebuild? You can still see numbers?
Check out this video on oiling mods on a 430 Block. (57) "F" it Friday Buick 430 Oiling Mods! I do what the factory should have on this 1st gen Big Block! - YouTube This video is saving the numbers on a 396 Chevy block. I know the numbers are not in the same location as a Buick, but as long as the Buick numbers are outside of the head gasket, the number can be saved. I couldn't find a photo of the numbers on the deck of a 430 engine on the internet. I'm guessing it's in the same location as the 455? (57) Can You Deck A Numbers Matching Engine Block? - YouTube
I would think a machinist decking the block would want a complete sweep across the deck for consistency. The deck numbers are in a area that the engineers designed the heads like they have 2 bites taken out of them to see the numbers on the outside of the deck and setting up a Bridgeport for that is just to much time if it can even be done to run true.. Plus some of the numbers are still hidden behind that area on the deck where the head gasket comes really close to covering them..
Normally the machinist would make a total sweep of the head, but if you tell him you want to save the engine numbers he will do that if the numbers are beyond the head gasket. He only has to adjust the sweep with his CNC controls. It's easy to do, but like is said, if the numbers are beyond the head gasket, you're good to go. Find a good engine machine shop, if you don't have one and ask them. Take a photo of your deck showing the engine numbers with your head gasket in place and see what they say. You can't lose anything by doing that. I hope I'm helping you out. Regards VET.
I forgot to add. When the machinist is decking the block and the engine numbers are beyond the head gasket, he is trying to save. There will be a very small machined step in the deck. As long as the head gasket is thicker than the machined step you will be good to go. With the thickness of the head gasket, the head is always flat on the machined surface of the block. Besides, I have never seen a factory block that is dead-on flat and true. Having a flat block ensures all your pistons will have the same CR or very close to it. When you contact a machine shop re saving the engine number, let me know what they say, please. VET
Going to a reputable machine shop to get an accurate assessment of how bad block warpage is . Then have them check crankshaft to see if its still serviceable.If I can get away with not decking the block and crank checks out , then I start looking for parts. Cam looks to have survived any damage other than metal discoloration from sitting in the weather for 35 yrs.
As a machinist myself, I would not machine a BB V8 on a Bridgeport knee mill. I would want a mill that's speciality designed and built for this type of machining process.
Sounds like a good plan. I'am hoping your engine can be saved. Good luck from all of us on the forum. VET (Navy)
Spoke to L a sleeve today as well as a very reputable machine shop recommended by them and they both stated that the block MUST be decked after re sleeving and could not do the decking without losing the numbers. My next step is to take the block to the recommended machine shop to get an in person assessment as to whether the block will cleanup within .060 overbore maximum. My thinking is it wont but i am just a novice hobbyist so hopefully im wrong .Is overheating a problem when going to the maximum overbore ?
Sorry to hear the engine numbers can't be saved. When i bought my 70 GS 455 Buick, it was .030 over bored and had a serious over heating issue, but it wasn't from being bored, it was because the previous owner installed high compression Kenny Belle pistons. Larry 70GS recommended I buy an aluminum Griffin 2 core radiator with 1 1/4-inch diameter tubes. This radiator was the cure to the high-water temperatures. I wish I had bought the Griffin radiator first, but I installed all of the other water-cooling parts first, fan clutch, TA's high volume water pump, high volume 160-degree thermostat and Evans waterless coolant. The Griffin aluminum radiator is manufactured in the USA (South Carolina) and is an "outstanding" radiator to combat high water temperatures. If you experience any high-water temperatures after the rebuild, go with the Griffin radiator. Also, keep your CR on the low side, around 9.0 CR. I wish I could get a close-up photo of a 430-engine block number on the deck. I would like to see if it's located beyond the head gasket. I hope the machine shop says it can save your engine. Good luck. Regards VET (Navy)
From Jim Weise's understanding 400, 430 455 core shift thread. The 430 could possibly be bored close to a 455. You know the deal with needing a sonic check and other issues the block might have. Your just rebuilding it to stock specs which helps and trying to keep it numbers matching.. Plus maby only 1 or 2 sleeves needed.
Looks like the search is on for a virgin 455 that has a crank that spins. Dont want to do the .060 overbore. Will keep the numbers matching block along with the crank and heads.
