1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

1967 Special - Auto to Manual conversion Vlog

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by Ant Legrand, Dec 26, 2019.

  1. Ant Legrand

    Ant Legrand Well-Known Member

    I recently swapped a Richmond Street 5 -speed (Doug Nash 4+1) into my 67 Special. I made some videos of how I did it.







     
    BUQUICK likes this.
  2. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Nice swap! I put that trans into my 66 300 Special and another in my 66 GS 401.
    It's a huge improvement in the fun factor as both originally had 2 speed automatics.

    If yours ever gets stuck in second gear with shifter in neutral, you need to shorten the 1-2 shift rod a bit. Both my cars had that issue! What happens is the shifter doesn't fully pull it out of second gear when going towards third. Stranger yet is that the Special has a Hurst shifter and the GS has a Long shifter.
    If it does get stuck in 2nd while driving, you have to get under the car and move the 1-2 shift arm out of 2nd and into neutral.

    Another tip..... be careful when downshifting from 5th.... I've buzzed reverse a time or two!
     
  3. Ant Legrand

    Ant Legrand Well-Known Member

    Thanks! And thanks for the tips. Luckily no issues yet. I'm trying to put miles on it to break in the clutch. Even though there was nothing wrong with the 400 automatic I had in it, it does make it feel like a whole different car. Pretty cool.
     
  4. Ant Legrand

    Ant Legrand Well-Known Member

    Some more details on this swap...

    Richmond "Street" 5 speed (non-overdrive), 26 spline input, rebuilt (not avail new anymore)
    1st...3.28
    2nd...2.13
    3rd...1.57
    4th...1.24
    5th...1.00
    Rev...4.79
    Torque rating...450
    GM Bellhousing 9785581
    American Powertrain Billet Steel Flywheel FWBU-10001
    Standard GM bronze pilot bushing filed down to 1.085 diameter
    McLeod 75021 Street Level clutch, 11 inch disc
    Hurst Competition Plus shifter
    Hurst shifter stick 7236
    Hurst backup light switch kit 2480003
    Inline Tube flywheel to crank bolts, and pressure plate to flywheel bolts
    ARP 617-1500 9/16 head, 1/2-13x1.5" trans to bellhousing bolts
    ATP Y-808 speedometer cable extension
    Energy suspension trans mount 3.1158G
    Existing ST-400 driveshaft
    Move trans crossmember a bit forward and drill 2 new holes in frame
    The Parts Place 67 Buick manual conversion kit (pedals, clutch fork, pivot ball, z-bar with pivot balls and frame bracket, upper and lower clutch rods, return spring, firewall boot, bellhousing boot)
    The Parts Place inspection cover for bellhousing, Trans tunnel hump, shifter boot and retaining ring for non-console

    The car has .060 over 430 Buick big block, Comp 268 cam, Performer intake, Q-Jet, 2" dual exhaust, original 2.93 standard axle.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2019
  5. boe

    boe Platinum Level Contributor

    I was interested in seeing what you had to do with the cross member: yours, vs my R.O.D. I as well had to account for limited clearance between the trans mount and trans housing. Additionally I had to move the chassis mounts back a bit but still got lucky with the header collector flanges. But that was 20 yrs ago. My how time flies.

    Love the videos and scrolling comments. Well representing the Buick community!
     
  6. Ant Legrand

    Ant Legrand Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the compliment!

    For the crossmember, I'm pretty sure I had to move it forward a small amount. 2 holes existing on the frame lined up, and I had to drill two additional holes for the clam shell crossmember mounts. My car already didn't have the original drivetrain in it, so I'm not sure if those holes were always there or done by some previous owners. I had to trim part of the crossmember also where it goes under the trans because it was contacting the case of the trans. I had to use a shorter aftermarket trans mount, because the standard one pushed the trans up too high in the tunnel. I hope that answers your question.
     

Share This Page