1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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1965 Skylark Heater Core

Discussion in 'The Big Chill' started by Nick G, Sep 7, 2019.

  1. Nick G

    Nick G New Member

    Anyone replace a heater core in a v8 1965 Skylark? Do you have to remove inner fender to get to bolts? Take glove box out and remove from inside of car? Any tips or know how would sure help. Thank you
     
  2. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    Just take about 6 (?) stamped nuts from the engine side blower bow and the inner box should pull out after the hoses are disconnected. You'll need to disconnect the cables to fully remove the box. I'm sure you'll want to clean it up and maybe paint it while it's out. It's a fairly easy job.
     
  3. ragtops

    ragtops Gold Level Contributor

    You can get to all the nuts on the outside of the box under the hood EXCEPT the bottom one on the outside, or nearest one to the outside of the car. I have seen that one drilled out from the inside of the car to get the inside box off and replace the core.
    I will say that for ME, I believe the inner fender can not be removed without removing the fender completely. That is a big job, I have done it. That is unless you don't care how much damage you do to the fender, core support etc. That inner fender is metal and not light weight stuff. It will not fold up to get it out and then unfold to put it back. It sits inside the fender lip and sits against the frame in the rear of the well, there is no give. I have also seen holes cut in the inner fender to get that nut off, some year "A" body shop manuals give the measurements on where to cut the hole. Some shop manuals also give instructions to cut holes to replace the fan motor.

    Best luck.
     

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