I've installed a nicely built 12 bolt, Eaton posi, Strange C-clip eliminators, big axles etc in one of my 65s. The rear end does not sit in the center, it is a good inch and a half to one side. What can I do about it? I've installed boxed lower control arms and it didn't do much of anything, but did require prying to one side. Someone, somewhere said 12 bolts in 65s require a different size upper and lower control arm, or they are not centered, or some'n. Please help here, and thanks again in advance.
o No: Mine was OK, but the pinion angle was way off (possibly because of the no-hop bars) Your problem has to have something to do with the upper control arms, as they are what controls the centering of the thing.
Hey Len. What did the rear end come out of?? I don't think that there are left & right upper control arms. Keep us informed. Gary G.
Hi, I have the same problem with my 64 Skylark , the rearend is out of a 71 Skylark, it bolted right in, but sits off to the passanger side by about 3/4". I thought the upper control arm were longer for a 64 vs. 72. If I put the shorter upper arms on the pinion anlge goes way off (down) Thanks Bruce
Ya, thanks Bruce, I could probably live with 3/4 of an inch but nearly two inches? Yikes. Anyone out there with suggestions on how to correct this? Someone in circle track racing suggested a pan ard or some'n like that. Don't know what that means.
Old or new bushings? I'd start measuring things related to the upper control arms until you figure it out. The 64-67 arms are way longer and have to be used. A panhard bar would work, but is a band-aid and might bind the suspension. somethin's not right and should be fixed.
Hi Adam, the bushings in the lower control arms, which are boxed, are brand new....they are aluminum and not poly. I will do some measuring today. Thanks for your reply.
It is the other way around. The pre 68 upper arms are shorter. I remember looking for the short ones in a pile at the junk yard for my 67. Here is more information on the relative lengths and other information that may be helpful. I also had problems with trying to use a Buick UCA with the 12 bolt. It did not fit around a bulge in the housing that the Buick rear did not have. I modified it to fit, but 12 bolt UCAs are available. Cheryl
Off-center is common A friend and I both have 67 GS Buicks. Both were off center. It became much more noticable after replacing the 67 rear with a 72 which is wider and put the tires right at the fenders. My friend loostened all the body mount bolts and two people rocked the body side to side until centered. My car was close enough after I widened the orig. wheels 1 inch inside the hub. This pulled the sidewall away from the fender, put the other sidewall closer to the frame, and gave me an 8" wheel for my big fat tires. I also trimed the wheelwell chrome and rolled the lip of the fender. Still off-center but does not rub. Measure all your arms eye to eye both sides and make they are the same and not bent. Also some are mismatched from the factory. One of my uppers was off 1/8" from the other but good and straight!
Wow, this is very interesting. My rear diff was out 1.5" and since the car had the drivers side quarter replaced, I just assumed that the car was hit hard on that side and bent the frame. I had it "straightened out" at the frame shop, but it's still off to the passenger side by about 3/4". Maybe I'll try the body mount trick. Good old GM quality control! :spank: Brian
Dog Trackin' My Ol' Man used to point that out to me on older trucks . Made them look like they were driving at an angle down the road . In the military we used to drive the Aircraft "Tugs" with the front wheels pointed in the opposite direction of the Rear-Steering rear wheels .The "Tugs" would be "Crab Walking " at a 45* angle straight down the road at 25-30 mph. :3gears: :laugh: Anyway , it seems to me rocking your car body on it's frame would do nothing but make the rear end appear centered . The mis-alignment condition still remains .You don't base your alignment off of the body ; you set your alignment according to where your front wheels are in relation to your rear wheels down an imaginary centerline of the chassis if I remember correctly (Thrust Angle Alignment ?) This procedure might work , you could try it or not . Tie some strong string just in front of the rear lower control arms and below the frame . You could use the lip on the front of the welded brackets where your lower control arms are bolted thru the frame as a referance point to be sure the string is "square" in between the frame rails . (chalk line or the neon colored string for setting cement forms or brick from the hardware store would be ideal ) , Then find the center-line between the inside edge of the brackets and mark that on your string with a contrasting colored felt tip marker . Also note: You'll use the string to make sure your cross piece is "square" side to side and front to back - this step is critical so take the time to do it right . Next -take a straight board or spring for a section of 2" Angle Steel long (wide) enough to go past either the backing plates or the axle flanges and enough left over for two pieces that will go back past the flanges or plates that you'll take your final measurements from . now find then mark the cross-pieces center-line , check that that piece is centered to your string mark and clamp it to your frame ( also;you may need to use 2 short 2x4" blocks between the cross piece and the frame so you can clamp the other 2 pieces to the cross piece , make sure your cross-section is in line with your string ) Get the two sections of whatever you'll be using for the pieces that will reach back past your axle flanges or backing plates and have them ready . Next -working from the center-line mark of your cross-piece that is centered and clamped to your frame ,come out on one side of the cross-section and make another mark that will be 2-3" past your flange or plate (this step is not as critical as having your cross-section squared in both directions )then repeat on the opposite side . Next -using a carpenters square or a 12" combo square , align (square up) and clamp one of the pieces that you've set aside to your cross pieces outside mark , repeat on the opposite side . (make sure you get both pieces on the same side of the mark on both sides ! ) Okay that's the hard part (setting-up a referance points ,center lines to your cross-piece and frame) Now go ahead and measure the distance between the edge of angle steel or whatever you used and your flange or plate , and do the same on the other side . You'll find out if the rear end is centered to the frame in this step Remember : Measure , then measure again ! The real hard part will be getting the rearend centered to your frame ! I realize there is alot of words here to deal with . But it's actually not that hard . I'm just trying to not leave any steps out for the uninitiated ! Good luck , Steve
I just went through the upper control arm short vs. long, I had both the set of the 71 and 64, I assumed the short ones were for the 64 went to install them and the pinion yoke was pointing at the ground. Installed the long set and the pinion angle is about where I would expect. The bolt center to center dimension on these arms is about 13" Bruce
you need a 9 and a 12 you old fart a ford 9 inch from moser would cure all that trouble with that junker-and a 12 pack would make you feel better about all the money you've wasted on cars!! hope youre havin a good thanksgiving old pal!
Looks like I was looking for the longer arms in the pile for my early A-body if this reference is correct. The OE arms here are roughly 12.75" center to center, and they were the ones that fit. I did find another, apparently bad, reference to shorter early arms here as well. I am sorry for any confusion. Cheryl
I have a 70 olds 442 12 bolt in my 64 post car using the original (but boxed)upper arms and it fits just fine a little off centre but not a lot. As well I have a 69 Skylark 12 bolt in my 64 gold HT and again not a problem with being off centre by much at all I use the original adjustable upper arms in my gold 64 :TU: On my 64 post car I have custom widend ( 15 X 9 1/4 with 7/16 spacers) buick wheels and run 255/60/15 on the rear I massaged the wheel wells and they work just fine :laugh: mind you I have less than 1/4" on the inside against the frame :shock: and the 26X10.5 ET Streets on custom 15X9 Cragars SS I had widend fit A little better They do rub just a little if I am loaded heavy but not enough to worry about---- 10,000 miles since I did this conversion On my Gold HT I run 245/60/15 on 15X7 Buick rallies and once I widen the factory wheels to 8 1/2 I will have enough clearance on my wheel wells uzzled: I have run this car 5000 miles since i did this swap and it works great :TU: There are at least 4 different back spacings on 15X7 buick rally wheels I have seen and if you widen them beyond 1 1/2" you have to raise the lower shock mount hole to clear the rim Brian if you are in Calgary I'll show you how these rear ends fit .... :TU: Bob don't worry about it just be carefull on the back spacing and you will love the look of the tires :laugh: I would be able to measure the back spacing on my wheels in the spring if any one is interested I can also take pictures as well as soon as it warms up e mail me at klassenk@hotmail.com
