Had some local errands to run today. Since it was so nice out I took the GS. This is only the 4th time I driven the car since I bought it in May. Been doing a lot of work to it. The carburetor is still not quite there, but good enough to drive and enjoy for now. I love driving it!
Sharp ride. Send your QJ to Rob Ross here on the board. You won't be disappointed. Of course, that's assuming you're running a QJ...
Thanks Brett, just saw your comment on FB too. Yes, I am running a QJ on it. Spent the last few weeks getting the timing curve and QJ tuned. Runs decent now. Just has a stumble if you jump on it after it's been sitting at idle. I'm still learning what this 400 likes and doesn't like, too.
Thanks for sharing pictures of the seldom driven GS400 Rich! Auto or 4 speed? What was the original color? I might be a bit concerned about the age of those Hoosiers. Good looking tires but they haven't made them in a very long time.
It's been 6 1/2 months, so I thought it was about time! It's an automatic with the original parchment colored bucket seats and console. The original color of the car was brown metallic (not sure the correct name or code). It definitely needs new tires! The front needs new control arm bushings too. I just ordered a front disc brake conversion kit, so it will also get new ball joints, control arm bushings, springs, shocks, and tires. I'm going to try to use a 245/60R15 all the way around, probably Coopers. I've had great luck with Cooper tires on all of my other cars and trucks.
He isn't kidding about those Hoosiers, I had the exact same set I used for winter storage and about a month ago I jacked up the car and the RR tire blew the cord in it and scared me to near death.
Well... both rear tires are pretty worn out and one seems to have the tread starting to separate. I can feel the slight wobble in the back when going slowly. It may just get new tires on the back first, before the new ball joints, bushings, shocks, springs, front tires, and alignment!
Found a few more pictures on my phone, of the interior. This is after a deep cleaning and treatment of all of the vinyl, new AutoMeter gauges, moved the Sun tach to the column where I can see it, new stereo and speakers, new dash printed circuit board, all lighting converted to LEDs (except the one in the mirror), new headlight switch, new cigarette lighter socket, new glove box liner, and new glove box lock and latch. This interior project started due to a short in the wiring to the reverse lights (at the shifter) that kept popping the fuse for the turn signals and power seat. The seat inserts are to protect the original seat covers which are in great shape. Here is what the interior looked like when I got the car
Thank you! I wasn't so sure about the color when I first saw the pictures of it, as I have never owned a yellow car before. It grew on me quickly though and the price was right. The paint job looks good in the pictures and is great for a driver. It does have it's flaws though. I believe the paint job is almost 30-years old. The previous owner included some receipts that he was given. One is for the shop that did the motor rebuild in 1993, that shows the color as yellow in the vehicle description. The body of this car is super solid all around and I have no plans to repaint it any time soon.
I have a 15 inch sandalwood rally steering wheel that would probably match your interior. It's correct for 71- 72. Send me a conversation if interested and I can take some pictures.
I hope so. Probably safer too! That would be really sweet and I will keep it in mind. I have to fix the carburetor issues, fix the leaky pinion seal, do the disc brake conversion and front end, then fix the AC. That is my project list for now... unless something else more important gives.
With regard to the Carb description it sounds like the accelerator pump or the Power piston. Since it sounds like you are fiddling with this yourself, I thought I would share. If you are in fact working on the carb and don't have the Rochester Quadrajet book, it's a must have for figuring this out. Nice car. My 1968 GS 400 has the same buckskin interior, with ivory exterior.
Well, since the weather was amazing here in Central Florida today, and I got the GS400 to where it runs much better, I took it for a drive to run some errands. It has been 4-months since I've driven it. Within the past 4-months, I've done the following: Replaced the tires with Cooper Cobra 245/60R15s Retorqued the intake bolts Replaced the distributor with a 1112110 old stock remanufactured one (took apart and re-lubed everything) Added 12V ignition power lead to the engine harness Added a FAST electronic module to it Added a FAST PS20 coil Added a MSD 6AL box Replace the Sun tachometer with a more MSD friendly AutoMeter one Replaced the spark plugs with NGK UR4 gapped at .041 Replaced fuel pump with a Carter new unit Replaced carburetor with one from a small eBay rebuilder. Carb was originally for a 1973 Buick 350. They stepped the primary jets up and changed the secondary metering rods for the 400. The price was right and it runs great! Cliff currently has the carb that came with the car. This eBay carb was purchased just to be able to drive the car while Cliff has my carburetor. The seller was very supportive and made absolutely sure I was comfortable with buying one from him. Replaced the transmission vacuum modulator Added a 14" All Star Performance air cleaner lid Set timing for 34-degrees total, all in by 3000 RPM Adjusted vacuum advance for 10-degrees maximum, starting a 6-in of vacuum Fixed coolant leak at the from of the intake The car did great, except for a slight pinging (detonation) under full throttle. Since I now intend to run 89 octane non-ethanol gas only, I am going to pull a couple degrees of inicial timing out for 32-degrees total. We'll see if that cures the detonation. Also, the temperature got to 210 degrees in traffic. The air temp was 80F and AC was not on (haven't fixed that yet). Car currently has a new 160-degree thermostat. May look into the fan clutch and water pump next. They may very well be the originals. I know that eventually I'm going to have to replace the timing cover. The outlet to the lower hose is pretty deteriorated and the front seal leaks, too. All-in-all, it runs sooooo much better than the last time I took it out. Love this car!
It was pretty nice out here tonight, so I took a ride. Just replaced the fan clutch and it still runs around 200 degrees in 75 degree weather. Cold Case radiator showed up via UPS, right when I was getting ready to leave. Next project!
Hopefully your new radiator will lower the temperature if not you may want to try a TA performance high-performance performance water pump.
Yes. If that is the case, the timing cover will be replaced with a TA Performance one, too. That will take care of the oil leak at the front seal. Plus, the stock timing cover is pretty corroded where the lower radiator hose connects to it.