My 1969 GS400

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by FLGS400, Nov 30, 2020.

  1. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Tonight I was able to fix the problem that I had with the brakes (I'm pretty sure). Binding front calipers would not let them return to the non pressurized position. This made it seem like they wouldn't bleed. I did go through half a quart of fluid tonight, to make sure I got all the air out. My girl was a trooper for helping me for so long after she got home from work!

    Tomorrow morning I'm taking it get aligned and we'll see how the brakes work then!
     
  2. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    The test drive went great and brakes are working just as I had expected... awesome! What a huge difference over the stock drums in the front.

    The alignment went great today, too. I thought we would be in trouble at first, as the computer on the rack did not go back further that 1978 for specifications. We ended up selecting the 1984 Regal with the 5.0 V8 to use as a guideline from the selection. I figured that the design of G body suspension was close enough. After a while changing shims, and adjusting the toe multiple times, here is the best we could get it...

    Alignment 050422.jpg

    The car is way better to drive now. It stops, turns, and over-all handles much better that before. It is also much quieter (with the new mufflers and bushings). The shop actually had to readjust the exhaust on the car too. With the way the clamps were installed, it wouldn't come off the alignment rack. The exhaust clamps at the X pipe kept stopping the car at the end of the rack. I also forgot that I put Eibach lowering springs in it too... hopefully this does not come up as an issue loading it on to a trailer next week.

    Here is how it sits now. I'm very happy with the outcome!
    Car 050422.jpg
     
  3. Super Bald Menace

    Super Bald Menace Frame off oil changes

    Looks great. Better brakes is always a good thing. How do you like the sound of the X pipe vs without?
     
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  4. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    I don't have an answer to that question. To tell you the truth, it has always had the X-pipe on it since I have owned it, and this is the first Buick I have ever owned. I just took the chambered mufflers off (Thrush Flowmaster copies) and put the 14" Superturbos on it. I like it way better now, though it is quieter than I thought it would be.
     
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  5. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    So I took the GS400 to the GS Nationals last week and it started to scare me a little when driving around town. The brakes work great and it seems to ride really nice. The problem is now the steering. I think all the new suspension parts have amplified how worn out the steering box is. With +3 degrees of caster, the feel is good. However, when you turn the wheel, then relax that turning when the road straightens, the car wants to keep turning. When you turn the wheel back the other way to correct it, it wants to keep turning in that correction direction. When I was at the Nationals, I had 6 or more people tell me that the steering box is worn out and to get a replacement from CARHEX (Hector). So that looks like the next project.

    Have to wait and see how the cash flow is next month. Still recovering from the trip to BG and back...
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2022
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  6. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    So today I was able to finally get the proportioning valve securely bolted to the frame. I ended up threading the hole from the old sheet metal bolt with a 5/16-18 tap. Worked like a champ!

    The car has been idling really rich, really running kinda strange, and was hard to start at times. 18-months ago when I put the FAST electronic conversion, coil, and MSD box in it, I had gapped the plugs at .040. I thought maybe that was working the ignition system too hard, since I had to take the MSD box out a while ago. I had some new NGK plugs, so I gapped those at .035 and decided to go ahead and change them out. Well, as part of the process, I ohm the plug wires to make sure they are within spec. When checking the #8 wire, I realized that I had it and #6 crossed. The car actually ran decent that way when warmed up, but was pretty hard to start and restart sometimes. Its been like that for 18-months... Fixing that and putting in the new plugs made it much easier to start and it seems to idle much smoother when warmed up.

    Hopefully I'll get to spend some more time on it this week. Next on the agenda is the power steering (CARHEX box, new pump, and new hoses), change out the oil pump spring (per TA's recommendation, as pressure is really high), and new valve cover gaskets. Of course I'll have to strip and paint the valve covers and install the new "400-4" decals I bought a long time ago, too. I also want to go back and retune it now.
     
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  7. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    "change out the oil pump spring (per TA's recommendation, as pressure is really high)"

    Are you using their big money cover? Which spring are you swapping to?
     
  8. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Yes I am Brett.

    They put the yellow 60 psi spring in it. When I called them about adjusting the regulator screw out to lower the pressure, I was told not to do that as it is only designed to increase the pressure by putting more tension on the spring. When they assemble the oil pump, the regulator is in the neutral position. When they ship the assembly, it comes with extra oil pump springs. The advice was to put the orange, 40 psi spring in it. The PSI ratings are supposed to reference hot oil pressure, though not all motors work out to those pressures.

    My cold oil pressure is 75 psi and hot is a bit over 40. This would be fine, except when the RPM pick up (when hot) it goes to 83 at 3,000 RPM and keeps increasing with RPM. This is just a stock motor with an aftermarket cam, so the high side oil pressure concerns me.
     
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  9. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Tonight I had some time to spend on the Buick. I got the CARHEX steering box all mounted up and connected to the steering shaft (thanks Hector!). Also put a new idler arm in it, while I was at it.
    Steering Box Bottom 062122.jpg

    Steering Box Top 062122.jpg

    Idler Arm 062122.jpg

    Next I'll get the power steering pump and hoses back on and flush it. Looking forward to seeing if this cures the problem with the steering not wanting to return to center.

    Also on the agenda is to change out that oil pump spring and retune the advance curve and carburetor.
     
  10. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Last night I didn't have a lot of garage time, but I was able to get the new power steering pump on and new hoses installed. I need to flush the system with fresh fluid next. Maybe tonight or Friday night.

    PS Pump 1 (062222).jpg

    PS Pump 2 (062222).jpg
     
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  11. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Well I got the power steering project wrapped up tonight. All that is left is a test drive. It needs gas anyway. Hopefully, since I'm working at home tomorrow, I can run it up to the gas station at lunch time. Provided it's not raining...

    Next is the valve cover gaskets.
     
  12. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    So... took the car for a drive at lunch time, to put gas in it. On the way there, the front left started making a lot of noise (creeking, grinding, and rattling really bad). Filled it up and headed home. It was getting worse as I went, crawled home as the noise was getting worse and more frequent the farther I drove. I made it though and backed into the garage. Looked it over really quick but didn't see anything obvious. It is definitely coming from the front suspension or steering as very time I touch the steering wheel to turn it makes all this racket.

    The CARHEX steering box seems to make it drive better, but it almost feels as though something else is binding in the steering.

    My fear is that the lower ball joint on the left front is garbage. A couple months ago I bought some lower control arms off eBay, in an effort to get the car done for BG. The originals were beat to crap and had one of the lower bushings welded into it.

    It'll have to sit for a couple days as I have work to do today and it's going to be a busy weekend... that and it has to be 100 degrees F outside right now.
     
  13. rjm

    rjm Well-Known Member

    Maybe this will help you out. I rebuilt/replaced my front suspension last year. UMI control arms, A/C Delco tie rod ends and center link. I had driven maybe 400 miles total since the rebuild. I came home from a cruise night and noticed a load creaking/popping and ratcheting in the steering wheel. gave it a quick look after parking in garage saw nothing obvious and figured I'd look into the next day. Went out the next morning and started the car turned the steering wheel back and forth and had nothing, smooth as silk. To keep a long story short, after some trouble shooting, found out it was the idler arm. When the car ran for awhile the hot air from the fan would heat it up and it would seize up, cool it off , it was smooth. Look up the part, I thought I got a A/C Delco idler arm, but it was a Mevotech part. Replaced it with a A/C Delco arm and all is good. So maybe check into that. Hope that helps you.
     
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  14. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Thanks Rick. I will definitely check that. I used a Moog idler arm. Talked to a mechanic buddy at dinner last night. He told me to check the lower control arm bolts, too. I reused the stock nuts/bolts and did not put any thread lock on them.
     
  15. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Well, it's been a hot minute since I last updated this thread. Since June, I've done the following:

    Replaced the inner and outer tie rods and center link

    Replaced the offset upper control arms shafts with the stock ones. This involved replacing the rear bushings in the upper control arms. The left one was pretty well damaged from contact with the upper control arm mount on the frame

    Did a home alignment on the front end. I set it to -.25 degrees camber, +2 degrees caster, and 1/16 inch toe on both sides
    Guage Set Up.jpg
    Changed out the oil pump spring from the yellow 60 psi. spring that came in the TA timing cover/oil pump assembly, to the orange 40 psi. spring that came loose with the assembly. Warmed up to 160-180 degrees, the gauge showed 50-55 psi. of oil pressure now

    Repainted the valve covers, put on new "400-4" decals, and replaced the valve cover gaskets
    VC Finish R1 082022.jpg
    VC Finish L 082022.jpg

    I really need to take the car for a drive to check out the home alignment and see if I took care of the issues I was having with the steering and front suspension, see where the oil pressure is at after driving for a while and adjust the regulator if needed, and check the valve cover gaskets for leaks and retorque (after being heat cycled). It probably wouldn't hurt to go through the tune-up again, either. Between COVID, the afternoon-evening rains, and having to clean out the other house (Dad and I sold it to my sister), I just have not had a chance.

    It needs a bath and waxing really bad too. It's pretty dingy from the trip home from BG back in May, and dusty from sitting in the garage.
     
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  16. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Finally had a chance to take the Buick for a drive. It ended up being a short one around the hood cause I forgot to close the garage door when I left, and there was a storm coming in. There is about half a mile where the road is 4 lanes and the speed limit is 30. I couldn't go any faster than 40 as there was a lot of police activity on that road, tonight. It's usually quiet. I think I cruised around for about 15 minutes.


    The front suspension was nice and quiet and tracked pretty straight. What a huge difference from before. Steering seems really on point and stable with the new linkage, CARHEX steering gear, and +2 degrees positive caster. Way different than it was before. Oh, and it seems the issue with the steering not wanting to center, after a turn has been fixed.


    Hot idle oil pressure was a bit over 40 psi when I got back to the house. I didn't get more than 3000 RPM out of it though. It was 55 psi there.


    No leaks from the valve cover gaskets. I thank Buick for the way they designed the valve covers. it makes it easy to change the gaskets and get them on right, with those tabs. I did not have to retorque them (yet).


    Since the car was filthy, it got a good scrubbing (on the outside) when I got home, too. Finally got all the sitting in the garage dust and road grunge from the BG trip off of it. Now it needs a good waxing, but that is not happening tonight.
     
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  17. sore loser

    sore loser Gold Level Contributor

    Sent you a PM about your brakes so as not to clog your post with a question.
     
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  18. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Here's a front end photo that I took after washing it the other day...
    Front Shot 082422.jpg
     
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  19. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Looks like it's been a while since I last updated this post. Since August I have done the following:

    Paint correction. Corrected some of the paint right off of the body lines. Car has some deep scratches under the paint. It's really shiny though!
    Buick GS400 101222.jpg

    Installed the new replacement MSD 6AL box that I got from MSD a year ago (still have the old one too). This prompted some hot starting issues. After replacing the FAST coil with a MSD Blaster 2 (much lower primary resistance), it runs better but still has the hot starting problems. In doing all of this, I discovered that I had set the initial timing by the advance mark I made on the balancer and not the correct one engraved on the balancer. Ran immediately better when I corrected that. Now total timing is 31 degrees, without the vacuum advance. I think it's the FAST XRi electronic ignition module that is acting the fool, when it is hot. I'm close to chucking it and putting points back in the distributor.
    MSD (092322).jpg

    Motor 101222.jpg

    I rechecked the alignment camber and the suspension must have settled some. It was -.5 degrees on each side. I reset it back to -.25 degrees like I wanted. Also, I reset the toe to 1/8" toe in, to help correct some steering quirks and a slight shake. It seems to have helped a bunch. The car seem to steer and hold a line better on the road.
    Toe Set 1 101122.jpg

    Toe Set 2 101122.jpg

    Other than the hot start issue, I'm pretty sure it has an exhaust leak at the passenger side manifold to downpipe junction. I'll have to get under there and make sure it is tight. Now that the new (well, right before BG new) mufflers are burning in some, it being louder sounds pretty good at the tail pipes.

    Tonight's drive was a small grocery run.
    Grocery Run 101222.jpg
     
  20. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Over the past couple weeks I converted the distributor back to points. I also had to replace the vacuum advance, as I'm pretty sure the adjustable Crane one that was in there crapped out. At first I tried to do it with the distributor still in the car. That was a bad idea and waste of 3 hours... It was so much easier to do it on the bench by disassembling it.

    Since I'm only using the points to trigger the MSD 6AL box, I guess the points dwell isn't too critical. I just set it with a feeler gauge, at .016. After some tuning time, it seems to run really good. Dare I say better than it has yet, with either of the electronic conversions in it (Pertronix III & FAST XR1). I starts up fantastic, with little effort, when it's cold or hot. When it's hot, you don't even have to touch the throttle. Today was the first time I took it for a drive.

    I also sent the original distributor for the car to Everyday Performance for a rebuild and performance recurve. I can't wait to see how it runs with that when I get it back!

    Next I'll see if there are any exhaust leaks and fix them. I suspect it's leaking somewhere around the manifold to head or manifold to down pipe areas on the passenger side. I also need to tighten up the rearview mirror and sun visor on the passenger side.
     
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