Temp up and down after coolant flush

So after looking like the air bubbles had gone after running car for 30 mins I drive it . In a 15 minute test drive it stayed around 190-195 ish . It krept up to 250 again once cruising at 55mph and again twice will slowing down . So I’m still at the same place . Did I need to run it longer to get more air out ? Wish I had gone to mechanics school years ago

 

This is on the heater hose , will it help in any way ?

 

Ever notice how the actual engineers who design thermostats DON'T specify bigass holes in them, but all sorts of internet heroes do? Oh, sure--you find OEM thermostats with jiggle-valves that CLOSE WHEN THE ENGINE RUNS, and some (the old "Robertshaw" design, for example) with one teeny-tiny vent hole that you have to look close to even see. But NOBODY punches big holes in the thermostat at the OEM level.

There is NO reason to drill 1/8--3/16 hole(s) in the thermostat unless you've disabled the coolant bypass provisions, because the first time the 'stat opens, all the air is in the radiator and is seen as "low coolant level".

A guy I respect suggests putting a "baby aspirin" between thermostat body and the valve, essentially the same thing as the candy suggested earlier. Can't say I've ever bothered.

My first choice is to buy a Lisle cooling system funnel kit, which can contain some amount of coolant that splashes out the filler neck when the cooling system is burped after service work. This is the one I have. There are other models with additional radiator adapters. I think the price on this Amazon site is too high, but maybe they've gone up (a lot) while I wasn't looking. I expected the genuine Lisle funnel kit to be more like $25.

www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=sr_1_3?

The same stat that's likely defective?

 

Those funnels look good and make the job easy . No it’s a new one I tested first

 

Yes. It's for hooking up to a coolant flush machine.
I'd suggest the bubbles may be remnants of what you flushed the system with. I'd try and hook up the garden hose to that adapter in the heater hose and flush it through with the radiator cap off - gently so as not to damage the hose clamp off one side at a time so it goes through both directions and keep going back and forth till it consistently runs clear . Then disconnect and flush the radiator through again - on older cars it's amazing how much crap builds up and they run sweet, disturb them with a bit of attention and they want more. On cars that have had limited coolant changes now is when water pump seals and corroded core plugs can fail so it would be a good idea to pressure test the system - maybe do a TeeKay test too to make sure there's no combustion gases getting into the coolant

 

I was in two minds to flush it out but don’t know if it had ever been done or not . Plus the before the stat change it had been running a tad over 210 normal driving (still hitting 250 for a few seconds then going back)

 

If you used any product when you did the initial flush some would have circulated through the heater, detergent could be your bubbles causing air pockets/ cavitation whilst driving, also some cars can be a mongrel to burp, I have jacked the front of the car up to get the radiator cap elevated on many cars to help, those funnel kits suggested earlier can really help - be careful - like burping an infant sometimes that air can bring through the contents all over your going out clothes

 

Yes I used a bottle of flush the first time and that makes sense about the detergent . I ran the car over 20 mins waiting for the bubbles to go down , does that seem normal ? I’m getting stiffed on $48 for one of those funnel kits but I’ll have it for other vehicles I work on

 

When I did mine this winter I drilled a 1/8" hole at 12 oclock and filled it up all the way. It decided it was too much when it was hot and puked the expanding stuff out. Perfect level ever since

 

Thats the way Ive been doing it my motors. SBC. Cummins 12 valve. I just didn't what to suggest that because I dont have the stock buick manifold. But on it I remove the Idiot light sending unit.

 

How old are your radiator hoses? If they are old, I'd check to see if the hoses are collapsing once the coolant/ hoses get heated up to temperature and your engine rpm increases.

Tommy

 

Its the fan clutch... but I didnt say that. ws

 

Hey Marouke I had the exact same problem as you. I put a TA high flow pump on with their heavy duty aluminum radiator and even got a high flow 180 t stat with a jiggle pin and installed it correctly oriented and STILL had the creep up temp when going speeds at 55 and above although now it was a slower creep. I replaced pulley sizes and fan clutches then and to no avail. What finally cured it for me is still doing a lot of what these guys are suggesting but it was really the essence of what they are saying and I sat down and thought about it and I did 3 things.

1. Made sure no part of the cooling system was above the fill cap on radiator. So i got the correct hoses for my 70 skylark (especially the upper rad hose) so filling it I can burp all air out of system

2. I have a heater valve and to get all the air out that was behind it I had to use an AC vacuum pump to keep the valve open as i filled

3. Lastly I used one of those cooling system air vacuum kits that suck all the air out and you then close off valve and it can test for leaks and double as a way to fill coolant back into the system when you crack it back open with a hose down in the coolant and NOTHING but coolant goes back in

http://knowhow.napaonline.com/know-how-notes-using-a-radiator-vacuum-tool/

and also one of those radiator attaching fill funnels for having a bunch of coolant on deck for when that thermostat opens that it can just pull in all that reserve

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE




Now my pop did it for years with the driveway method mentioned almost everywhere but for what ever reason I just couldn't get that air out until the above and now my coolant needle is rock solid stuck at 180 and I even accidentally put the pretty worn out clutch fan back on the motor in my exasperation with the whole situation.

 

thanks guyver . is this the same kind of thing from oriels ?
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ugh-radiator-cap-test-kit/67085/4700282?pos=1

I bought the funnel tool yesterday . just trying to find time to try it but no time with work and trying to catch the damn skunk under my house .

 

No. You're looking for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT3978...3IXRW6M&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&pldnSite=1

 

this pretty much looks like a tool the pros would use . guaranteed no air lock with this it looks like .

 

I'm not convinced this is an air-lock problem. If it is, jacking the front of the car up--or putting the front tires on ramps--and running the engine should burp any air.

If this is an electric (OEM or aftermarket) temp gauge, I'd be looking for bare wire (broken insulation) on the temp sensor wire.

 

ill be jacking the car up when i'm doing the burp . its an aftermarket gauge and ill check the wiring also . thankyou .

 

damn its been a busy week but hopefully will get to mess with the car this weekend . think ill be replacing the radiator soon either way so I have a question for Larry .
I read somewhere about you recommending a aluminum radiator from I think summit or jegs but cant find the thread . any chance you can tell me what's the best one I need please ? for a 72 Electra all factory . thanks