My next project is making a better bolt in AC setup. the factory system works, but leaves a lot to be desired. but for the mean time it's been running great with the new intake system, very pleased with it. I have driven several big block v8 cars, some quite hot rodded out and this engine can outdo them any day and still idle smoothly.
Here are the pictures of the jaguar conversion on another identical Buick. These rear ends fit under these cars so well and make for such an improved ride! although it is welded to the frame, I only weld the cage mounts so the hole rear end can easily be removed / installed. The only extra parts you need to mount the cage are a couple pieces of 2x4 steel. The suspension needs support bars that run from the outside of the lower control arm to a point on the frame. Ill get some pics of that later. In the first two pictures, the right side is towards the front of the car. I haven't yet drilled holes through the 2x4 for mounting bolts in the pics, there are bolts there now of course. To answer your question about why Jaguar suspension, there are many reasons- it's independent suspension rather than a pan hard bar so it has much better ride quality and handling. Besides being a limited slip and spinning both tires, it seems to hold much better on the corners than a straight axle. I was shocked at how much changing the rear end did for the feel of the front end handling. These buicks only weigh 4,000 lbs so there's no reason they should ride like boats. The center section is a dana 44 so it's plenty strong. Also something fun I realized recently- a factory 1956 buick front sway bar is the same width as a rear jaguar sway bar. I am hoping to make some mounts on the buick and put the 60 year old sway bar in the back. It's about 5/8" or so it should be just right thickness. The jag suspension uses inboard rear disc brakes- a really neat design but pain to do a break job on
Forgive the picture quality, but heres how I attached the trailing arms for the jaguar suspension. I used 20" threaded tubes with 5/8" threads and 1/2" eyelets on the rod ends. I welded a 2x2 bar between the frame rails. the bottom of the bar sits 1" below the frame to have clearance for the exhaust to come through the frame. The bar has two 30 degree cuts in it to fit the X in the frame. In front of the rear driver tire: A little undercoating fire:
They are really good rear ends. Make sure you keep everything greased - there are at least 14 zerks on those!
Recently completed a 1,500 mile road trip. Las vegas to hollywood to the coast, then san francisco, and up to washington with several stops and detours on the way! she handled it like a champ. only burned 1.5 quarter of oil LOL I'll try to attach a video of driving through san francisco.
I removed the original condenser and put the new aluminum one in today. I put them on the bathroom scale just because- the original weighed in at a whopping 37 lbs! new one was about 7 lbs LOL. also, with the slim new condenser, and sitting a little more forward, I was able to put a 14" electric fan behind it, sandwiched in front of the radiator and transmission cooler. The mounting brackets came out pretty good, I used the factory bolt holes as templates to make some flat pieces that the condenser is screwed to. No cutting or drilling planned for this project. I will be using a trinary switch to automatically turn the fan on and off. Here are some pics:
Here are some more pics of work on the AC. The air box looks the same in the previous pictures but I've had to make many adjustments to get it situated just right, and fit the evaporator well. This has turned out to be a lot more in depth than I first thought. Today is the first time I've had one of these boxes functional and installed. I have the blower motor hooked up and there is plenty of air flow through the vents, can't tell any difference from the factory ac for air volume. I have the warm side of the ac lines plumbed in, just need to finish the cold side. I'm debating putting the accumulator where it is in the last picture or putting it behind the passenger inner fender. Either way I should be able to get it pressurized this week and test it out!
I'm glad to report that the AC is a success! I finished the lines, and ended up installing the accumulator in the area underneath the heater control valve. I had the system vacuumed out, then filled it with 2.65 lbs of refrigerant. its blowing significantly colder than the factory system ever did! I couldn't be happier. On the last picture you can see the condensation forming on the cool line.