Got it, I will talk to the owner before anything. So if I am making an offer on it regardless of the engine running or not, what do you think it's worth? Interior is a bench that's a bit ripped up and it's column shift but the paint and body look perfect (needs new grille and 1 piece of trim on trunk). Haven't checked for bondo with a magnet yet. Here's the only picture I have of the car (and yes that's me :bglasses. I like the car and I feel it would be a good start to a build. I will get under and look for rust again and will look into having it towed somewhere. Where am I looking? Frame, quarter panels, rocker panels?
Not a bad looking car. Offer them what you think it is worth. If you think it is worth $1500 and would walk away for any more, than offer $1500. They will have to decide what it is worth to them.
When making your offer, tell them you are willing to take it "as-is" without knowing IF the engine is even any good. It could have a rod knock, hole in a piston, bad rings, etc. Tell them this and that you are the one taking a risk here and they'll not hear back from you no matter how bad the engine turns out to be. Gotta be convincing.
Mmmmm ok! :idea2: Been pondering what to do if the engine is bad, 455 :Brow: or try and fix the 350 . . .
Either way always consider worse case scenario when dealing with the purchase of a vehicle with any issues. It would be nice if it only needed a timing chain. But, once installed, it could be an oil burner.
Hmm ok . . . this makes me think that I would be safer doing the timing chain (part on her dollar) first and seeing if the engine runs. I don't mind spending the 8 or 16 or however many hours it takes wrenching on it to find out, I'm at least learning how to wrench on a SBB, right? If it smokes, knocks, catches on fire ect. then I can make an offer accordingly. If it runs nice then I will offer more. If it smokes like a steamboat I will offer less. Either way, it seems like it'd be easier to know what the car is worth to me if I can get the engine to fire. And I can also be honest to the owner about why I'm offering what I'm offering. Maybe I should just ask her to promise (or sign a paper) saying I have first dibs on the car regardless of offer price? If I was loaded I would have bought the car long ago (and a garage and lift for that matter), but I ain't Perhaps I should do a leak down test as well? Never actually done one before and don't have a tester. What I'm worried about is buying the car for X amount, doing the chain, then finding out the engine needs to be rebuilt, which I can't afford now because I spent my X amount making sure tha car was mine first. I feel like it'd be easier to give up a few hours and have a better idea of what the engine does. If I can't get it running by the time she needs the car gone I will make an offer assuming the engine needs to be rebuilt or swapped. Am I crazy? Am I making this more complicated for no reason? :grin:
My point exactly. I just tried giving a lesson with the reasons. Next time I'll use the 2X4 approach. Stop messing around and buy it as a "worse case scenario".
All right, apologies for the long delay! I worked things out with the owner and I am officially (and finally) buying the car! I should have it in my name and at my place the next few days. :beers2: Last night I went and ordered a 1970 Chassis Service Manual. I also bought an air impact gun and sockets for the harmonic balancer removal, as I've been reading that this is the best, easiest way to go. I plan to make an angle iron "stopper" for the engine as in this thread (post #10) to aid in removal and torquing when re-installing: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?200687-Help!-350-Balancer-Removal-and-Intake-Gasket-Question I will order the timing chain from TA asap as well. My questions are: -Should I also replace the water pump at the same time since everything is out? -If yes, should I get the stock replacement ($60) or TA high flow unit ($200)? I eventually want to build this motor up (if it runs and all that, but $200 is a lot. -Should I replace the timing cover as well? These are also sort of pricey, compared to what I'm used to for there cheap Chevy parts! I'm under the impression that using the TA timing cover would mean I'd have to readjust the oil pump correct? If so, I think I'll wait as I've been reading it can go wrong easily for first timers. I'm kind of leaning towards either one or the other cause $400 seems like a lot to throw at an engine that may be meesed up inside. What do you all think?
I would not replace the timing cover or water pump unless they have issues. Keep it simple get it running and go from there.
I agree. Keep it simple. If the pump turns freely, then reuse it. Pull the thermostat though and replace or at least check it to see if it works properly. Get it running, then get it on the road and enjoy it. Then save some money, then talk about bigger plans.
Wow, I like the easy on the wallet approach. Will do! :bglasses: Is there anything I'm missing from my list that I need for the timing chain besides: -New Timing Chain. Was looking at this, I've always heard it's best to go with the most heavy-duty chain you can afford, right? http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1521B -Impact Gun/Socket(s) -Engine "Blocker" (anti rotate) Angle Iron Device -New Timing Cover Gasket -New Balancer Gasket (will use Neoprene type TA seal) -New Thermostat (if needed) -Hammer/Propane Torch/PB Blaster for stuck bolts -Oil Pump Primer Tool (electric drill kind) Sorry for my overly long winded posts, I just want to make sure I have all the tools and parts before I start! If I'm missing anything let me know!
If your using the neoprene seal get the balancer sleeve. The balancer is knurled for rope and could eat the new seal. Also a good mid grade double roller chain should be fine for stock engine
And................DO NOT gob silicone on the timing cover gasket. All that is needed is a bit of Hi-Tack to stick the gasket in place. Silicone can and will block the oil passage, among other things. Seen it done. So-called 'mechanic' siliconed the cover on a V-6. Engine didn't last 100 miles.
Is this what I'm looking for on the balancer? Third item down. https://www.bopengineering.com/buick_v8.shtml How does it go on?
