Yes,the older head bolts are not torque to yeild(torque to yeild is when the spec calls for the bolts to be torqued to a certain reading,then go a certain degrees of rotation extra. These kind of bolts are a one use only,uaually) Can re-use if they are still in good shape,as in not overly rusted or pitted.:TU: Derek
ok great, im still a little ways away cash wise before i can get my cam lifters and timing set, When i go to test the valve to piston clearance do i torque the head bolts all the way down? what about the gasket? once its torqued down is it no good? ooh and thanks for the link Sean
Lookin good. As a note, the coil bind on those are the same listed coil bind for stock springs: 75 lbs @ 1.727 225 lbs @ 1.227 Coil Bind 1.150 You could probably figure another 10-15 or so lbs. lost on those TA springs once they break in, which wouldn't put them much tighter than stock springs. Many 'advertised' numbers for parts are a nominal rating. Tension will also depend on the height they're set at, and since those Stage1 valves are lighter than stock, you'll have even higher RPM potential and better valvetrain stability. Looks about right. With your cam, they'll be fine.
Thanks guys so far im happy with how its turning out and i feel like ive made a good chunk of preogress with the heads being finished im still a ways away but at least all the machine work is completed! ---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ---------- ooh back to my question, do i have to torque everything down to test the vlave to piston clearance? and what do i do about the gasket? it cant be re-used if i torque them down can i?
Alright, how much clearance am i looking for? its still gonna be a little bit of time, i dont have the cam or lifter set yet..
It is very hard to quote a certain "min" spec for the valve to piston clearance... Racers argue about this all the time. The only time this really comes into play is for the guys who are milling the block and heads as much as possible to max out the compression ratio and then they will keep milling things till the valves are almost hitting the pistons and these people are normally not allowed to add valve reliefs as per the rules in thier racing class. For the rest of us just building a typical engine just make sure that you have valve to piston clearance and it will likely be far more than the "min" spec. And if we do have valve to piston interferance then we just add valve notches or reliefs, not a big deal. I also want to tell you that you are doing a really good job of asking for advice and following what we are teaching you.... Many people just do what they think they should and then complain about how it did not work out...
Sean,what the heck is plastercine? I usually use modeling clay to check piston to valve clearance. Derek
\ I see,its a "brand" name for a modeling clay,thats a releif,for a second I thought I wasn't using the right stuff.uzzled: Thanks for clearing that up for me Sean.o No: So Brian,when you check your valve clearances,don't feel that you need to buy the name brand modeling clay,whatever brand you can find should work just fine.:TU: (if you have a kid brother or sister,you could even steel there Play-Doo and use that,LOL) Derek
So if you have a set of feeler gauges can you tell us a few specs? How far are the pistons in the hole from the deck? Can you fit a feeler gauge between the intake and the head where I put the circles? This will tell you if your intake is fitting well or not.
The pistons are sitting around .09 and .094 at the most in the hole, ill get my feeler guages and check the intake gap out, you want a gasket in there? and any sized guage? ---------- Post added at 12:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:37 PM ---------- Also ive almost got the money up for the next order, so far my list is the ta 290 cam, a set of lifters,a check pushrod, intake a valley pan gasket, and i forgot to ask about the crossover plugs at the machine shop so a set of ta's cross over plugs.. anything i need to order this time around? ---------- Post added at 12:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:46 PM ---------- Also ive almost got the money up for the next order, so far my list is the ta 290 cam, a set of lifters,a check pushrod, intake a valley pan gasket, and i forgot to ask about the crossover plugs at the machine shop so a set of ta's cross over plugs.. anything i need to order this time around?
I do not know the specifics of what to do to check this I just know that if you sit the intake on the heads without a gasket and there is a big gap up at the top where I circled then that is a sign that the intake is not fitting well. I would use the TA composite intake gaskets too, much better seal.
no updates, ive been really busy and broke, i need some motivation or something to get this moving again, ive been debating about selling what i have including the car and moving on, im only 22 and have been lucky to get as far as i did but im out of funds. Only thing keeping me is not selling is that i dont want to look back and say i wish i would have kept it.. Then the car just sits there most of the time because its expensive to drive, while my lame car gets about 30 mpg. So for now the engine is covered in oil and wrapped up sitting in the garage.
well after months of debating I finally got some inspiration and I'm getting back in it with hopes to finish the engine by the end of the year! I'm getting ready to make an order with ta for the camshaft lifters a check pushrod, the intake gasket, timing set, bolt set and the stuff to rebuild the rocker arms! anything else I should be ordering this go around?