TA says the Stage 1 350 springs require the guides to be machined down to use the dampeners, otherwise to just use the springs without the dampeners. Apparently it's ok either way. I would like to know the pros and cons to with or without though. Maybe call TA and ask for their opinion. In the end, I don't think you're going to absolutely have to have them, since TA even says they can be used that way, but what are the pros to using them? Otherwise, if there are zero pros, why even suggest using them at all? There has to be a benefit to using them (dampening effect), but is it absolutely necessary? Would it decrease the life of the valvetrain if they're left out? Mayhap. ---------- Post added at 12:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ---------- Dampeners don't really increase pressure by that much; their main purpose is to absorb vibrations and stabilize the outer springs. Dual springs with over a certain amount of pressure are recommended to leave the inner spring out for cam break in. Some people use stock springs for break in, then put the springs they're going to use back on it. Those Stage 1 springs aren't tight enough to worry. They're not that much tighter than stock springs. 75/225 (stock) vs 110/280 (TA) advertised, those TA spring values will probably drop 10-15 lbs. once they're broken in.
But the heads have to be machined in order for them to fit right, On the instructions for the springs it says if you do not wish to do the extra machining then to remove them im gonna call ta right now ---------- Post added at 01:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 PM ---------- Ok just got off the phone and they said with the TA 290_94h its fine to take out the inner spring and run it like that so off to the machine i will go!
Cool. As a side note, for future reference, I believe there's a relatively inexpensive tool you can buy to shave down the guides yourself by hand, should you ever decide you'd want to do that for future builds.
Leave the damper in .The shop will have to cut for PC seals. Being cheap on a performance engine leads to problems.just do it right the first time
I already removed the dampers and the heads are at the shop.. Your right! they are cutting for different seals anyways but i figure this way i dont have to disassemble and reassemble the heads another time, I can leave these out for the break in and then put them back in after the cam is broken in. Here's what they are doing, Clean and mag, Complete valve job V8 High performance, Head work machine bowls and seats for larger valves 1.92 intake 1.55 exhaust without hardened seats. Surface and cc the heads down to 51 ccs, work heads for positive seals and a set of new valve seals. The total came out to $630.92. That seem like a decent price? This is from Dougans machine shop which is a very reputable machine shop in Riverside. The guy agreed with not needing the dampers for my cam and also the seats.. he did recommend that i use a lead additive for at least a few tanks worth of gas to help the seats work harden..
Did you provide any parts for the head rebuild or is the shop providing all? Just trying to get an idea on the cost for each part of this build. Scott
I provided the springs, retainers, keepers and valves, if you want i can post the cost of each thing.
Just thinking about the heads, how much do you think it will take to get down to 51cc assuming they are at 58, and how much can be milled before the intake side needs to be matched?
Assuming 58 starting point. subtract 2 to 3 cc for larger valves .I'm gonna guess 2.5 per 010 .so go 020 to 030. And I believe 030 is max before needing intake sides surfaced. Just guesses
If you could list out each of the services and cost it would likely help more than just me. Thanks and following this with interest. Scott
Complete v8 Performance valve job - $259 Clean and mag heads - $39 Machining bowls for larger valves per 8- $75 total $150 Surfaces and cc chambers to 51 ccs - 62.50 each total $125 Head work machine for positive seals - $2 x 16 total $32 and new viton seals - $1.50 ea total $24 Hopfully this will help people because i always search the web like crazy for prices on things and no one seems to want to give them up..
Well i called the machine shop as they quoted they would be done today, but they are running behind on the heads and have only cleaned and magged them (no cracks!) in the shop and probably wont be done until next week. :ball: I also asked him about matching the intake side. He said without knowing how much to mill off exactly, its hard to guess how much to take off and that its easier to match the intake itself. Hes going to call me back after they measure the head ccs and see how much its going to take to shave down to 51 cc so i can let him know what i want to do about the intake side which got me brainstorming (might not be a good thing). I still dont know for sure how much i can get away with before i have to match the other side, but does having the bigger .04 gasket make a difference? Does it make up for .020 being shaved off the heads itself for lining up the intake? Any one else have an idea on how much can be shaved off before i need matching?
Would it be possible to get the heads back from them after they mill them, then do a mock up with the intake? Any gross mismatch will show up in the bolt hole alignment. That might appeal to them since they are running behind anyway.
well they have to install the larger valves before the measure them and mill them, would they be dis-assembled and reassembled again?
