Engine Build Question

You also nee the correct coil and new plugs and wire cant hurt either unless yours are in good shape
A lower resistence wire will help some,but on a mild build,uncut ,non arcing ,correctly routed wires are more important than anything else

 

Okay....so I need to but this & this, being sure that they are compatable? Excuse the noob questions.

 

Yes sir

 

I'm rumnning 3:73s with a turbo 350 tranny, 28" tires and a 2800 stall converter on the turbo car.. I think it does just great on the highway at 65-70.. I'm even putting the same gear in the GS with the 28" tires it has..

 

AMP, a major Buick engine builder, rebuilt a 350 Buick on the Spike channel this morning. The program may have been Horsepower TV. After a lot of tweaking, it made 303 horsepower tops.

 

Here is a neat build, cannot remember the name of the guy:

Started out as a 1970 350 2 barrel,single exhaust,

Block was cleaned up and 10 to 1 forged pistons installed,heads were pocket ported and 3 angle valve job and 350 stage 1 valves from TA,old SP 1 cam 232 245 dur.490 488 lift,crank was 10 over and polished,oil holes camfered,new ARP rod bolts,resized, ARP head bolts,Stage 1 350 fuel pump,

Hooker Super-Competition 1 5/8 headers Jet-Hot coated,TA 350 Stage 1 intake and New 800cfm Q-jet from Poston, with a 1 inch spacer Stinger S-4 Ignition including dist. Complete balanced Assembly
That's the basisic's of the motor.
I re-located the battery to the trunk using ALL of the necessary parts from MAD ent.out of California [who I highly recommend].
I have the GSCA's 3" exhaust with an H-pipe and Walker super turbo mufflers,350 transmission with a shift kit and 2800 stall converter,a 12 bolt posi with 373 gears and an homemade cold ram-air induction systems thru the headlights.

I finally went to my records and pulled the Dyno Sheet from my 350 that Scotty from PEEGEE performance built about 9 years ago.
This engine in a 4040 lb. Skylark runs 13.5's all day at 100 MPH.

On the dyno the engine was 377FT.lbs torque and 369.8 horsepower at 5650 rpm's Scotty said I would have no problem occasionnally running it to 6000RPM's<o></o>
<o>







Another one from David Butts, simple street build</o>
350: 13.84 at 99 MPH

Original 1970 350 block,crank,heads,rods, rod
bolts, valves, retainers and keepers.

HEADS- cleaned up the casting irregularities with a mild port job(gasket matched) and as far as a dremel
tool will reach. concentrated on the roof of the exhaust ports and the
shortside radius and floor of the intake's, polished the combustion chambers
with scotch roloc brand abrasive discs, bowls blended and guides narrowed. three angle valve job and spring pockets cut to
fit required springs. guides cut down for clearance and full teflon seals. i
would strongly recommend a standard abrasives porting kit as all the stuff is
in there for a good job except the air and die grinder.

T/A 350 INTAKE- gasket matched and also ports worked on as far as air
tool(this time)would reach.

BLOCK- when i originally rebuilt the motor in 1986 i spent good money on good machine
work(zabatts here in jax) and had the block align honed(checked first),
squared as one bank was not square and the deck heights as measured from the
crank centerline corrected(tollerance's apparently were'nt real tight on
either of these from the factory) bores cleaned up at .030 over and standard
cam bearings installed, no reorientation cause i didnt know about it then.

RODS- resized and minor cleanup grinding on the beams and what they called
shot blasted.

CRANK- also shot blasted and resized -.010/.010, oil holes
chamfered. PISTONS- trw forged 10.25 cr. which were the highest cr pistons i
could order through them. whole assembly was ballanced ballancer to
flexplate. when i rebuilt it again in 1995 i just ball honed it stuck some
new rings and bearings in it had the cam(old kenne bell mark 2)reground to
intake .448 lift 224 at .050 and exhaust .449 lift 235 at .050 110 deg
centerline specs. after asking me a bunch of questions thats the grind the
cam grinder came up with. he was right on too, its totally streetable with
enough vacuum for pwr brakes and sounds good too!

i use ta 1 5/8th's primary headers with full 3 inch pipes with the long case dyno max mufflers. 3.42
gears, 800 cfm quadrajet(reworked by me) and a unilite distibutor set up for
16 deg initial and 18 centrifugal. car is a full weight 72 skylark 350 sport
coupe with buckets and console and weighed in at reynolds in november at 4015
lbs(eeks!)
best et to date is a 13.84 at 99 mph shifting at 6000 rpm on 275/60/15 ta
radials. best 60' sofar is 1.945. i have a 350 trans with a 10 inch aprox
3000 rpm converter. i drive the car almost 50 miles a day and almost all of
that is highway so believe me if you've considered converters and gears
you'll get used to them real quick. this is not a fuel mileage engine or
combination so we wont go there. blah blah blah, yadda yadda yadda! and for
those who wonder why i built a 350, its what i had. i still get a kick
out of it when someone says " thats a buick 350? wow!" i've left out
a bunch but i'm tired of typing.

David Butts
Orange Park FL





Here is an interesting one:

A 1973 Century Gran Sport (3700 pounds) owned by Roger Reed ran 11s NA. He built a mean Buick 350, made 480 hp, 420 ft/lbs torque, ran 11.65@116mph in the quarter. The heads were done by Michaels in Macedonia Ohio the rods were mechart v6 steel ,pistons were wiseco chevy, used 4.3 gears.


His quote: I made 480 HP and 420 Ft/Lbs with a Buick 350 about 15 years ago. The block and crank were stock. The heads were massively ported, mechart rods, 13:1 compression, solid cam, ported TA intake, etc. It looked sort of stock on the outside. On the down side I put it in a '73 GS which suffered from excess gravity.<o></o>
<o></o>


Here is another simple 395 hp combo:

And another in the same hp range:

 

Finally dropped my engine off at the machine shop today. Should be ready in 2-3 weeks....I'm already impatient!

 

Good work!

 

Just finsished talking with my engine builder. So this is what I'm getting done: It will be bored to .030 over, 10:1 compression pistons, shaved heads, port matched, I've got a TA212 cam going in, TA intake manifold going on it and I will be runnig LT headers. I sure hope I'm satisfied. What kinda HP/TQ #'s am I looking at??

 

Got my motor back last week. Painted and almost ready for install. :grin:

 

250 hpo No:

 

Okay...so I got my engine back in and running. I've been having problems getting the car to idle. I ordered the mechanical advance kit & adjustable vacuum advance kit. I recieved my vaccum advance kit today and installed it. When I put the dist. back in the car it wouldn't fire up. Any idea what I did wrong?

---------- Post added at 04:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:17 AM ----------

DO I have to turn the motor to get #1 at TDC after pulling the dist? I thought I put it back in just the way I pulled it...clearly I didn't.

 

What carb are you using?

 

i traded my th350 for a used 700r4 granted i know its a little more to fit but was even trade. if i was buying id get a 200-4r. i dont see why you couldnt find a used posi gears and a od for a few hundred. be best to get a 8.5 rear while at it or 12 bolt used think i paid a 100 bucks for the one for my skylark. stock hei dist could save a few bones also.

 

It's the stock Quadrajet 750. It definately needs a rebuild...but I just bought an Everyday Performace carb set up for a TA212 cam, should be here soon. But the car has atleast been running, now since I put this adjustable vac on...it wont even fire. Drained my battery trying so long yesterday. I figured if it doesn't fire I have the dist in backwards...so just rotate it 180*...am I wrong?

 

I'm not sure about what direction I'm going to go, gear, trans, stall yet. I like the idea of having an all 'original' drivetrain. I've read the Buick 8.2 is a darn solid rear...just expensive to build. I don't think I'm going to build an all out car...think I want a fairly original, cruiser that will lay down a little rubber.

---------- Post added at 04:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:55 PM ----------

My back was killing me yetserday...figured it easier to just pull it and work on it at the table. guess it wasn't easier afterall . My balancer has two marks on it...seems that it has the 30* mark notched into it from the factory...lokks different than the original...ever seen one of these? if that's the case I have a lot of mechanical advance in at idle...only way to fix that is with the recurve kit, right? I made my own 30* mark after the factory 30* mark thinking that it was the 0 mark...ran fine in park...but ran like a turd in gear. So I needed to start from scratch anyway I guess.

 

Here is a pic of the balancer.