Have an old perormer intake that i ported with a file and sand paper, matched the ports { a big no no} and cut out the center plenum divider on the secondary side about 1/2 way down..we will see what happens Friday since I cant get this SOb back into the Low 13's
sorry didnt go,rain ,thunder let you know on 9/2...the car seems to run great,but been down that road before with major disapointment...let you know
Got to the track early...Temp in the 90 degs with strong cross wind first pass 13.31 almost one and a half tenth quicker, fooled around with carb started running slower 13.33..13.39.Got to eliminations dialed a in a 13.29 turned a 13.30 but left early and had to go home with my tail between my legs....will go again next week..hopefully it will turn out better,let you know Steve
I'll say it again. Weather can make a big difference in performance. Check the DA at the track you were at this time and how the weather was the last time. You'll be able to get a better idea if the mod is helping or hurting. Of course the wind isn't included in this. http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-altitude-calculator.php I tell everybody who will listen. Try a 4-hole 1" spacer under the carb. You might be suprised.
Da was 6931ft,my run prior was 6799 ft on 8/19 turned a 13.47 100.07 mph car was running between 13.44-13.50. Trust me the weather in Colorado varies in density from 5500 ft to 8050 ft so I always check, so im fairly sure my expert porting job did some good...let you know next week
Sounds promising! Ok, a couple of questions. The mods we are talking about are generally gonna help high rpm performance. (right?) So if this is done to the 'wrong' engine then results could be different. So....What are your cam specs and shift points? Gears, converter? ??? Did you take any pics of your mods? If a four hole helps low rpm and the mods we are talking about help high rpm then wouldn't the best for a particular car depend on lots of 'things'? OR are you suggesting BOTH the mods and spacer??? Thanks guys,
Sorry Steve I didnt take any pictures since i really didnt think it would work and im still not sure since horse power potential is so effected by weather as Mike stated...other than density altitude there is Temp.and humidity to consider...If you want a picture of the mod. Larry { Wizard } posted a picture Gregg Gessler did to his manifold,which i coped ..the runner ports were just matched to the manifold. As far as my engine goes headers, hooker small tube stg one heads pocket ported, q-jet by Cliff Ruggles,petronix ignition, Jim W converter, t/a cam 290-08 with rhoads lifters, th400 trans shifting a 5500 rpm,3.70 gears.thats about it.
Mike Iam making a wood spacer did you make your own four hole gasket for under the carb to spacer.Thanks
I found my gaskets somewhere. Somebody does sell them for a TQ. DA takes into consideration humidity and temp along with pressure and the actual altitude of the track. It seems to me Greg's modification to the manifold would be especially important to somebody that is NOT able to run a carb spacer because of class restrictions, such as his. I'm thinking the 4 hole spacer increases the velocity of the air coming through the carb and the open plenum gives each runner more plenum to look at higher rpm. I actually run the divider on my B4B cut down about 1/2" about 3/4 the length front to rear. I'm sure there is a point where the open is better than the 4-hole, say on a higher shifting with bigger cam engine lighter car the open would take over. My car is 4250+ with me in it. I see a SP1 test on my car in the future but I'm not sure what will happen. Unfortunately there will be no room for any spacer. Steve's car looks like one that could use an open with that converter and gear but when you look at his et it is deceptively slow because of the altitude. I'd say the 4-hole will help draw more air into the open plenum he's carved out. These tapered spacers by Wilson seem to be the hot item for Holley's which is almost a 4-hole/open combo. http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/prod...---wilson-manifolds/4150-tapered-spacers.html I'm starting to think if you're not running at least in the mid 12's the open spacer probably isn't helping and the 4-hole will probably help. An open spacer may help more on a fully divided dual-plane manifold because it adds plenum to the intake. Of course changing a regular spacer is about the cheapest and easiest thing to try at the track and see what happens.
Steve Y, I was picturing Greg's mod when reading your description. Thanks Mike, good idea....throw a 1/2" spacer on it, if the engine likes it then the divider mod will probably be good as well. I can't run a spacer full time due to clearance (regal application) but I have studied those Wilson spacers, pretty sweet, $$$$. Thanks My interest in this is #1 cheap et lowering #2 I love the technical aspect of our hobby #3 I need to loose some low rpm power but not at the cost of 1/4 mile performance. Steve D
Mike i stack 2 gaskets together,then open the secondary side by cutting out the divider between the throttle plates, seemed in my mind this was a restriction so i eliminated it. also the gaskets move the throttle plates out of the air stream..but my mph didnt increase so maybe back to the drawing board??? I thing my main prob is getting the car to hook my short time is in the 19-20's going to get new shocks see what happens.
Steve Y & D, No doubt more low end torque won't help with traction. You definitely need to hook up better. I run the Mickey T. Drag Radials on just about everything these days and they hook great. My '76 Century has gotten as low as a stupifying 1.58! Steve Y, I'm not sure how your 60's translate because for the same reason your ET's are slow(elevation) they will be slower. I would think a decent 60 for mid 13's would be 1.8's though. What tires are you running? Steve(Long Island) I spotted these. Probably could order one from a local Advance Auto type place. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-466/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-57A/
Lol, popular name eh? 90/10s, et radials @ 14psi, just got done removing front sway bar...we'll see if that helps after supper.
Wish i could run m/t but at 200.00 each alittle out of my price range...was running bfg's but had a hard time getting them ended up with nittio nt555r ,got them for 150.00 each they hook ok ,about as good as the bfg,still not m/t..if i could get down to the 18 or even the 17 i would be happy.going to try rear shocks 70/30 ,still leery about removing front sway bar. Steve if you take yours off let me know how it handles??
Ok, 6 mile test drive, drives wonderful...until you move the steering wheel! Would be ok except emergency situation, deer other cars etc. 4 launch attempts, the front left a arm hits the frame a lot harder(no rubber bumpers) but still spin. Although, the engine seemed to work for it instead of just reving on up. For the first time in the cars life it could use a converter. A arm hit the frame at a 3500rpm roll start too, THAT was pretty awesome. Soooo will I leave it off, for a while for sure, not my dd just a fair weather toy.
