ZDDP with cam break in

I am getting ready to fire up this 350. I have installed a solid cam in it and what I would like to find out from you experts on this if you can help me with a question on this additive.

I am using the Joe Gibs break in oil BR 10-40 which has the zddp already in it and from my research they have put plenty of this zddp in there already.
So my question is do I add the extra Zddp to this oil for the break in of this cam? I have read that too much zddp is not good either.

I also have the regular Joe Gibbs oil after break in, that is I think called HR which has the zddp in it also.
There again do I add the extra zddp I got when I bought the cam?

Here are the two zddp formulas I received from Schneider cams should I use this or will it be too much of the zddp in the oil I bought?

Here are some pics


I also am using the lifters with the EDM hole in bottom, I just installed the front cover and it looks like I lost about 5 lbs of pressure with the drill, I had 80lbs. before I took it apart and now it is at 75lbs., so looks like I did not lose much. I have adjustable front cover so I can adjust if I need to.

Thank you all for any advice you can provide on this, I can't wait to get this broken in and hear it.
Guy

 

When I broke-in my 350 with a hydraulic TA212, I used cam lube on the lobes and Lucas break-in oil. Nothing else in it but that. No extra ZDDP. When I change the oil, I plan on using a standard high ZDDP oil and no additional additives.

 

X2. The break-in oil should already be formulated with the correct amount of ZDDP. Adding more can be detrimental according to what I've read over the years, including right here at V8Buick.com.

Devon

 

Agree, but call Schneider and ask - its their cam!

 

Plus you removed the inner springs, which is best for break-in.
That extra zddp would have to be mixed in well with the new oil before adding it or its going to be in one blob till some run time.

 

VERY important about inner spring removal!
With just the outers they’ll be like soft marshmallows and your lifters will be happy.
Hell drive with just the outters for a few hundred miles with the oil supplement in there too, I did on my 310 cam years ago, no issues.
It’s a bitch putting the inners back in.

 

Thanks for replies, looks like I will leave the zddp out of the break in oil.
Yeah Demko, the inners will be hard to put back in but should all be worth it.
Just because you guys have roller cams does not mean you do not run oil with zddp from my other research, lots of pressure on those rollers

 

I’ve done “the swap” quite a few times in the car, the typical valve spring compressor BARELY grabs the inner spring, I think on the 8th or 9th time the lips on the “grabbers” were rounding off and the inner spring would go WHAMMO
You have TA’s good on car compressor tho yes?

 

Yes there is!
Going roller doesn’t negate the need for ZDDP.
Good luck on your break in Guy!
Don’t be gentle on it.
If your able too, drive it for the break in of the cam, get on it

 

Drive easy till inners go back in. Don't float the valves.

 

I used a Wix filter and was wondering about the drainback valve in there so I went back out the next day stuck the drill in and it took 3 seconds for the engine to get oil, slow down the drill.
No valve floats just beer floats !

 

Ta makes a great tool for spring removal

 

He's got a pretty nice one.

 

How do you know about Guys tool

 

It's not his that's why...
He'll post a pic for you!

 

Oh this little thing lol. All I can say is WOW.

Comes from a Great Buick friend who has been very helpful, Thank You Mart! Two thumb up if we had that emoji

 

I wanted to share this information with everyone about - AMSOIL ZROD synthetic engine oils.
I received this email from Amsoil after I sent them a question about using their synthetic oil in my 455.

RE: AMSOIL Contact CRM:00910006705

Inbox

Mail TechService <techservicemail@amsoil.com>
Mar 15, 2023, 11:37 AM


to me


Foy,

Thank you for your email.

The AMSOIL ZROD synthetic engine oils are recommended for this engine. The ZROD oils are formulated with high levels of zinc antiwear chemistry, plus additonal rust and corrosion inhibitors for classic vehicles for added protection. Synthetic engine oils are not any thinner than conventional oils, so the mechanic may be mistaken about this fact.
The ZROD is available in SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, and SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades to be suitable for any type of engine build.

We hope this is helpful.

This is my question: I have a 1970 Buick GS 455. I want to know if I can run your Synthetic oil in my car. Because I have a flat tappet cam, I either need an oil with Zink in it or I have to add Zink additive into my oil. What line of Synthetic oil do you recommend I use. My engine has been rebuilt about 3,500 miles ago.
I've been told by mechanics that I can't use Synthetic oil because it's to light and my bearing clearances are to large for this thin oil. That doesn't make since to me at all, I would think a thinner oil would give more oil volume to the bearing plus bring more cooling to the engine. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think so.
Please give me Professional advice on using your product. Please displace the myth on using Synthetic oils. Regards, Foy J White Jr I live in zip code 22153
Product_Recommendations : Finding the correct products for my application

 

A baby rocker arm that pushes on the retainer instead of the valve tip.

 

I decided to go with the BR Driven break in oil with no extra zddp added, I thought there would have been more responses on such an important subject.

 

What weight? 10/30 10/40??