I have the dash out for a project and I'm trying to take advantage of the added access to overhaul as many items as possible. So, the vent cables and knobs need to be replaced and it looks like a much easier project with the dash out - great access to everything. Where can I get the new cables and knobs? Car is a 70 GSX BO A/C and each kick panel has a lower and upper vent cable (2). Thanks!
Rob, OPGI has them, they run about $40.00 each & I think that includes the knob. The PP's place also sells the knobs ($5.00 each) & you can reuse your cables if they are still good.
Olds are the same too. I think a Chevelle is the same. You can lube and use the old ones usually. You may have to cut the old one off. You have to glue the new ones on.
Jim and Frank, Thanks for the tips. I will be pulling the kick panels out tomorrow after reading the threads on that process. It looks like I will need to remove the vent grill then remove the screws. What about the cable that goes to the upper vent control? Do you simply disconnect that cable at the vent? Thanks all... I'm off to look online for the knobs! Rob
I remember lubing the doors and etc and redying the grilles and panels with Landau black SEM dye. It takes a lot of cleaning with soap and water first, then the plastic and adhesion promoter, then the dye.
>Remove vent grille...5 or 6 5/16" or screw/bolts likely with captive flat washers. Just be aware this can sometimes be a pain as the factory winged them in pretty fast and sometimes at odd angles and the head of the screw can be sunk down into the plastic on the kickpanel.....Thus making it hard to get a socket down around the flats of the screw head. >Probably need to remove or at least disconnect 2 nuts on the firewall that hold the parking brake assembly against the firewall so you can pivot it out of the way. >The upper cable likely goes up to the underside/side of the dash metal above the kickpanel and should be held in place up there by a 1/4 or 5/16 screw that goes through a small metal clip. This small metal clip holds the cable in place. >Cut off your old knobs with end cutters. Just crush/cut the plastic til nothing is left. Don't cut through the aluminum rod though. >Be careful when reassembling the cables to the kickpanel. They are held into place with a round horseshoe clip that wedges around the cable right after it passes through the kickpanel. This clip can put a lot of pressure on the area of the cable that you see where it meets the FRONT of the kickpanel. The cable housing in this area is pretty wide....around 1/2" and flat with rounded edges. This is the part that can SNAP OFF (ask me how I know:rant: ) when you go to re-wedge that horseshoe clip onto the backside. If you have catastrophic failure here you can always go get some real mean adhesive and glue the cable to the backside of the kickpanel. >MY ADVICE is find someone that sells TRIM PARTS BRAND vent pull knobs. The reason I say this is I recently put some on a car and inside the bag was a little info sheet stating how THEIR BRAND KNOBS HAVE REAL CHROME ON THEM INSTEAD OF THE VACUUM METALLIZED STUFF (like is one the dash bezel)....This real chrome stuff is a lot more durable than the vacuum metallized stuff and won't dull like the other stuff does over time. GM originally used REAL CHROME on some interior plastic parts that were high-wear items like door lock knobs and seatback release buttons. It's good to see some vendors actually IMPROVING these items instead of just selling the same 'ole stuff.....AGAIN--the brand is "TRIM PARTS" and these knobs were listed as '68-'72 Chevelle and El Camino Vent Pull Knobs. They may have been ordered from SS396.com. Unfortunately this sheet doesn't give any phone numbers, addresses, etc for Trim Parts but you might do an Internet search for them. >The kickpanels may be stubborn when you try to remove them. Reason here is the factory gobbed massive amounts of non-drying rope chaulk around these where they meet the side of the firewall/kickpanel area. Try to save this stuff and re-apply it evenly where you see it was applied. Probably noise/wind/water protection as it's purpose. >Once you remove the knobs a little 0000 steel wool and some alum wheel polish (like Mother's Wheel Polish) will really shine up the aluminum shafts that the knobs attach to.
Patton, Thanks for the awesome instructions. I now have a clear picture of what lies ahead of me on this project. I'm going to try to locate the CHROME kobs you mention as that would be a much better option since the plastic chrome will end up peeling like the current ones. Thanks again!
I wouldn't use the roof type/urethane tube type chaulk (or any other seam type sealers) to seal these things back up...the reason being if for any odd reason they need to come off again a chaulk like urethane or otherwise, THAT SETS UP AND/OR CURES, will make these things a nightmare to remove or get "unglued" from the side of the firewall. I would go to HDepot etc or an autobody supply place and get ROPE/STRIP CHAULK. The HDepot stuff is greyish in color and probably a lot cheaper than the 3M Strip Chaulk which comes in approx 12" strips, laying approx 10 across, in between sheets of wax paper. You do get a lot for the money in terms of volume by getting the 3M stuff. It comes in a rectangular box about 12" long, 4" wide and 1" tall (the 3M stuff) and it's probably not priced badly anyway as it isn't made up of some super secret material that 3M has an exclusive on. THE STRIP/ROPE CHAULK STUFF WILL NEVER HARDEN OR SET UP like a urethane chaulk will so, just like the original stuff, you will be able to pry the kickpanel away from the metal relatively easily. The stuff doesn't shrink or dry out with time either so it will provide a great seal. Apologies ahead of time if the stuff Jim is referrring to isn't something that sets up at all....but if it is then it will be a major pain to ever remove those panels again. There's no way to get a knife or anything in behind the kickpanel like you can easily do to cut urethanes on windshields so be forewarned. Urethanes set up and hold REALLY WELL (why do you think they use them to hold in windshields!). Even if the stuff is not urethane based if it is something that sets up or cures then you get the idea. There's a reason the factory didn't "glue" these things in with something that sets up and cures. I include in the seam sealer category anything like 3M seam sealer, the urethanes, etc mentioned above or any other brand that is used in the trunk, top of firewall seam or to hold down floor pan plugs....all this stuff sets up and hardens (to varying degrees). The rope/strip chaulk will not.
Jim, In searching other posts about this project I noticed you previously mentioned getting the "firewall seal kit" that would include the vent flapper seals (or something along those lines). Exactly what is this and where can I get the kit? I'm trying to make sure I'm taking care of EVERYTHING that I can possibly do while I am this far into the dash removal project. At this point it's so much easier to access things like the top vent cable and removing the kick panels. Anything else I should do while I'm at this point? Thanks....
I have to agree with you, I just pulled mine off & the original caulking was still soft & water tight. I can actually use the original caulking, it's still in excellent shape.
Again---with originality in mind, the factory did not use any pre-cut seals on the firewall (unless you count the rubber coated jute pad inside the firewall and/or the foam wiper motor seal)...note this applies to 70-72 cars and possibly earlier. On an AC or non-AC car, at most, they used similar rope/strip chaulk around the AC firewall box where it touches the firewall and MAYBE the same on a non-AC firewall box (These may have used nothing at all on the non-AC cars with the assembly manual calling for someoene on the assembly line to spray some undercoating/sealer around the seam where it meets the firewall ONCE INSTALLED--you see this on other parts of the firewall also). I don't know to what degree you are trying to retain the original build/looks of the car but if you are then consider the parts/materials you put on there. Year One, SS396.com, etc likely list these seal kits for sale. One other "detail" point I forgot to mention earlier. The little wide/flat black plastic "escutcheons" that I mentioned could break off in my reply above.....many times their black color is faded to a greyish look....when you have the cables out you can mask off the aluminum rod portion, etc and spray these little escutcheons with some SEM Landau Black paint or some other satin black. I like the SEM as it doesn't have much build and won't hide minor details in the underlying surface.
