WOT bog

well Im not sure if the place that rebuilt this carb reset it to my buicks specs or left them original for the carbo No: . If they set them to my make and models specs the carb should work fine right?

 

Highly un-likely they re jetted it but who knows unless you take it apart.

 

im sorry but i still have to disagree with you on this. you couldnt go to a car with a wet manifold, start it up, and 10 seconds later, mash the gas and expect the transition to be "seamless." i know someone in their right mind wouldnt do such a thing because of damage to the engine but if you tried it i guarantee it wont be seamless.
randy:beers2:

 

This may depend on the ambient temperature. If you're talking about a "cold" engine as being at ambient temperature--and it's warmer than about 60 degrees--I would expect to be able to punch the throttle after start-up and get no hesitation, bogs, sags, backfiring, misfiring etc. The power will be way down because many carbs will lock out the secondaries when the choke is still active; and of course the choke itself interferes with air flow and therefore power production. I live in a cold-weather climate. So, stamping the gas pedal when the engine is at -20 may indeed produce drivability problems--but--even at -20 the engine should perform without sags, bogs, hesitation, misfire, etc. when operated "normally" (i.e., fairly cautiously but not so slow as to be a traffic hazard.)

You're right--it's been a long time since I've punched the throttle on a dead-cold engine

 

If this is a production-line rebuilt carb, there's NO TELLING what they may have done to it.

Typically, they disassemble a bunch of cores, throw all the parts from many carbs into piles--and then dig out castings as needed to make "rebuilt" carbs.

So your baseplate may come from one carb, the main body from another, the air horn from yet another carb--and these carbs may have had different air bleeds, idle restrictions, or other tuning differences. Then, the jets and air bleeds are changed to provide "universal" fuel metering to suit the widest possible range of vehicles so one part number of "rebuilt" carb can be sold for as many applications as possible. This means they fit NO application correctly!

Production line rebuilt carbs are generally worse than the one that came off the car to begin with--if the original carb were simply cleaned, re-gasketed, and adjusted properly.

Don't confuse a production-line rebuilt carb with one that's been rebuilt by a one-carb-at-a-time specialist. The specialist-rebuilt carb can be EXCEPTIONAL!

 

I do believe it to be production line material so I will probably have to do a tear down of my own and find out what ive got! bought this carb for two reasons. 1st the price was right. 2nd I assumed it would be rebuilt to spec for my engine. Now I have to assume its not. One last thing, I did a little adjustment on the timing and brought it down two degrees from 12' to about 9' intial. The timing seamed like it might be just a tad high, well now shes acting much different. When I take off from a light at normal speed the power suddenly surges, not jumpy but sudden increase in power at about 1500 rpm. not sure if its a good thing or not. should i go back to where i was or play with the timing a little more?

 

yes I have read it many times, but when i did the carb and manifold swap I never rechecked the timing. As for the link, I had taken it off about a week ago (cant remember why) and have already put it back on. I will however go through that thread again this weekend and reconfigure my timin properly. Now will that timing matter IF there is a worn timing chain or the points are severly worn. The day I messed with the timing I had noticed the points need changing, and there is still a rocking of the engine at idle (when reving up it looks like the engine wants to jump out of the car. Im guessing that its mounts but am unsure. Wish I had someone nearby to take a look at her. So many possible issues and not sure where to begin...

 

I have tested the compresion and all cylinders were almost dead even (well within respectable limits). The other day when I was messing with the distributer I had checked all spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and they are still good bought new last spring. Car has just under 100000 miles and the block seams to support that number. Doesnt burn any oil, no smoking, no carbon on plugs, nice brownish color. Only things I havent dug into is the internals, oil supply, timing chain, valves, and trany.

 

In drive its pulling about 17 with no fluxuation, in park its pulling about 21 also with no fluxuation.

 

Just installed new points and retimed for 32*. difinate differance in the look of the points. old points had holes in center and were worn. Also found source of recent surging, throttle cable was hung on secondaries link. Now I need to address that. Next issue I noticed while driving and has been there since the swap is that the engine kills over if i hit the gas and let go suddenly, probably another function on the carb I will have to look in to ... Thanks for the help:beers2:

 

did you adjust dwell? always adjust dwell before you touch anything else when you change the points set. if you dont have a dwell meter you can use a feeler guage but the dwell meter works best. btw, sometimes one side of the points set will have a hollow center.......sometimes.
randy :beers2:

 

Did not adjust dwell, just set it by eye to where the other was set. Dont have dwell meter yet so how would I adjust by feeler gauge? and what amount. With current setting car started right up like it had previously but would like to do it properly to avoid uneeded problems.

 

i dont know the specs for your engine but i can tell you how to do it. you have to get the little rubbing block on the points set on the tip of one of the cam lobes on the dist shaft. then insert a feeler guage in between the contacts and adjust accordingly. technically this only gives you a base setting so you can get the engine running but its close to what it should be. like i said, the best way is with a dwell meter.
randy:beers2: