Working with the fuse block

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by rkammer, Feb 20, 2021.

  1. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    I'm trying to install a double tap at the orange ignition wire location at my fuse block. (1970 GS) to supply power to my new radio that has its own fuse. I'd like to use a larger wire than the original yellow wire that was power for the factory radio.
    I just need to remove the orange wire and install the double tap connector and plug it back in. Sounds easy but, I can't seem to be able to pull that orange plug out. Is it installed with some kind of a one-way lock on the spade lug? Or, am I just not pulling hard enough?
    Fuse Panel.jpg
     
  2. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    It’s not locked in.
     
  3. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Why not use the OEM radio power wire?
     
  4. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    The factory radio has been updated with much higher power internals plus it will be driving a sub woofer and a small power amp under the seat. The 18 gauge OEM wire is smaller than I want to power it and I don't want to have to run a larger wire from the battery thru the firewall.
     
  5. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    I was able to finally get the ignition wire off the fuse block and install the extra tap. Thanks for the feedback.
     
  6. Randy Lutz

    Randy Lutz Well-Known Member

    If that car were mine, I would give the fuse block a shot ofWD40 to stop some of the corrosion on the fuse holder tabs. I did that on my 72 with no adverse effects.

    Cheers
     
    bhambulldog likes this.
  7. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

    Im not a car stereo AMP & Subs ETC guy... All I'm putting in car a a pioneer PK-500 and a pair of speakers. Why not use a Bosch relay inline to run the power to the Sub & amps?
     
  8. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    Using a relay only serves to trigger a higher current device with a lower current input. In my case the number 12 wire I ran from the fuse block is more than enough to handle the 50 watt radio and the 100 watt sub amp. So, no relay is necessary. Thanks for the thought.
     
  9. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Yeah, I use the factory wire for the "wake up" trigger. I did run a separate power wire for my radio and power amp. The 12 gauge from the fuse block is good, but I would be concerned with the wires running to the fuse block and the other items on the tap. I think your radio would draw 10 amps and the power amp 25 at max output. I would think a 10 gauge from a source close to the battery as a better option. You can always do a voltage drop test with all the items on the tap running.
     
  10. jaye

    jaye Well-Known Member

    I used the Stock wire to power the radio and as mentioned the small blue wire from the sub to turn the sub on and ran large wire to power the amp to the battery. The amp kit had a wire larger than 10 ha. My buddy is using 0 ga. to power his amp
     
    alvareracing likes this.

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