Well here it is...about a month before our Buicks go into hibernation :ball: .....except for those lucky guys on the West Coast..... What do you do to store your car? Fill the tank? Keep the gas tank near empty? Fuel tank stabilizer? Battery tender? Take the battery out? Jack stands? Change the oil? Wait and change the oil in the spring? Car covers? Just thought it would be interesting to hear how similar or different the methods used for storage are out there in Buick land........David
If you know for sure that it won't need to be moved, take the battery out or just disconnect it. Empty as much gas out as you can and pour a little fuel stabilizer in there for the stuff you can't get out. Jack it up and throw a car cover on it. Change the fluids in the spring.
This is a subject that everybody disagrees on. Some people say full tank, others say near empty. Some people start it every week others don't. To jack it up or not. I'll tell you what I do. I usually leave about 1/2 tank in it, for any work that I do over the winter. throw some stabilizer in the tank. Set some mouse traps in and around the car. Put the car cover on it, and check the traps every week. That's about it. I change the oil in the spring.
A perspective on starting or not starting: I just pulled my crankshaft (don't ask). You could see a small discolored dot (corrosion) on each main bearing, right where the oil feed hole is. This was from sitting too long, sometime. Engine was together 5 years, I built it in 1999 I usually start my engine every two weeks while in winter storage. Now I will do it every week. Unless you do something to protect the engine during storage, I recommend starting it and running it for about 20 minutes, once a week. As far as jack stands go, I never do it. Why? I pull the car forward about 5 feet during the first time i start it, then back five feet the next time, etc, etc. I run the tranny through the gears slowly, and pull forward in L1, back in R, forward in L2, back in R, forward in D, let it idle in N, and in P, so the tranny sees some use. I also am giving the brakes a little workout during this time. So I never put the car up on jackstands. Buy some dessicant. Toss a few bags in the front and back seats, and in the trunk. Starting the engine will get rid of moisture under the hood. Bake the bags in the oven to wring out the mositure and you can re-use them
Wash and vacuum thoroughly 24 hours before storing. 24 hours ahead allows for proper drying. Change oil and filter. Keeps "gunk" from settling in oil pan. Check antifreeze (replace every 2 years) Full tank of gas...with gas stabilizer. Run the car at least five minutes to ensure stabilizer is in the entire fuel system. Check tire pressure. I always overflate 5 lbs. Drive car onto car bag. (Car bag used indoors only.) While running, pour a bit of oil into carb, till exhaust shows oil being burned, then shut car off. Remove battery and store. Place desiccant packs under hood, in the interior, trunk and underneath car. Place car cover on car. Close car bag. Wait for spring!
It is funny how many different methods are used. I do not start my car while in storage. I believe that just causes condensation, if the car is not taken up to operating temperature, and driven. I have seen exhaust systems rust out from just that. I run fuel stabilizer about a month before storing ,to circulate through the carb. then top off the tank, with stabilizer. A fresh oil change about a week before storage. Disconnect the battery, stuff silica gell packs in the tail pipes, a couple on the floor. I have heard good and bad, about jacking the car for storage. I do, just to get it up higher, and avoid flat spots on the tires, but some folks say its not good for the suspension. To each his own.
I put it on jack stands, 4-ton in the rear and 2-ton in the front. (i know it sounds weird) Use Stabil Fuel Stabilizer in the tank before you put it in storage, otherwise it only protects gum formation in the tank. If you run the engine with the fuel and stabilizer in it then no gum forms throughout the entire system. If you engine is original or in seen better days, then i suggest to start it up for 15-20 minutes at (high idle) every other week. Thats how i kept my motor runnin'. An oil change isn't nessesary but as they say, " You can never change you oil too often." And finally put on a car cover. Goodluck everyone. :TU:
Here is what I do: 1. Add StaBil to the gas 2. Change oil and filter 3. Wax entire car, including jams 4. Stall engine by spraying Marine Fogging Oil into the carb 5. Add dessicant packs to the interior, trunk, engine comparment 6. Disconnect battery 7. Car Cover I do not run the engine at all unless I can drive at least 15-20 miles. Not doing that builds up too much condensation.
Had mine jacked up last year, think I'll just park it this winter. Car seemed to bend a wee bit.Forgot something after it was jacked, opened the pass. door & managed to take a good scrape from the leading edge on the door rubbing the inside of the fender!
I saw this posted some time ago and found it amusing. It is what I do: I drive the car into the garage in the fall, usually after the last drag race and shut off. In early April or when the salt is washed off the roads, I start the car and use the rest of the season. Have been doing this for 14 years with the GN, and have not had storage problems yet. I do use a battery tender on the GN since the alarm system and computer will run the battery down. The GS does not discharge the battery at all. A little squirt of fuel down the carb of the GS in the spring does help it start quicker.
I change the oil, spray the under side and engine compartment with WD-40 and park them for the winter. I also put the charger on about half way throught the winter just to make sure. Unless you can run and drive your car at least 20 miles you are doing more damage than if you let them stay dormant! Cleaning and waxing them before storage is only sensible.
Anyone have trouble with mice? Use dryer sheets (Bounce) in the car/trunk/under hood. They hate the smell! - Bill
Gonna put 4-500 miles a week on mine. Hopefully I can get that down to 200-250 by getting my Datsun fixed.
I find that the battery last long if you bring in inside somewhere warm over the winter. Just unhooking it isn't enough for a long life. Or so it has been for me. The cold seam to be the biggest problem. A car cover is good, as long as it not a $20 autozone special. They seam to get the car dirtier with it, then without.
what? i was told to spray oil in the carb untill it blows blue???..wont that kill the engine..guides or rings??...and yea what are these bags and where cna i get them??...my car is primered and i unfortunalty to dont have enough for a storage or garage..i have a car cover but i will buy a new one for the winter...any help is GREATLY THANKED! :TU: KYLE 71 GS 350 CLONE PS..any thing i should do do prevent rust on my primer????
additionally -- -best to remove the battery & sit it up off the floor or on a piece of 3/4" plywood a little larger that the battery . if the battery should fail/leak , than no acid drips onto any of your metal. if u have a trickle use it monthly . battery loses 10% of its cranking power , monthly . -place pieces of plywood (1/2 or 3/4") under all 4 tires/wheels to keep the cold & moisture from passing up from the concrete/dirt into the rubber . -instead of desiccant bags, i use small buckets of charcoal placed in various locations about the car - under the hood, in the trunk, in the front & rear seating areas of the car, on front and rear floorboards . desiccant is a product that absorbs moisture . -wrap the master cylinder & the brake lines (for about a foot exiting the m/c) with a towel . these areas are prone to surface rust . -if possible, raise the car , front & rear about an inch to relieve tension on the springs for the 5 or 6 month hibernation . -start the car at least once a month . if possible , drive it for a few miles until completely warmed . or at least start the car , run for 10-15 minutes & shift the transmission through the gears a few times . this refills the torque converter . -i also place a large cheap plastic tarp (not canvas) under the vehicle to prevent moisture from passing from the concrete to the underside of the car . -i also spray a little krown oil inside the doors, fenders, quarters, trunk lip, hood lip , rocker panels - anywhere moisture/water can lay . -add 4 or 5 lbs of air to all the tires , except the spare . -and as korrie states - wash, wax, vacuum a day before storing car . check/change the anti-freeze.
Heres another idea to add to the list ... Also I spray WD-40 on any raw metal , master cylinder , tie rods , idler arm , etc . :Smarty:
New Idea I heard you arer suppose to coat your chrome wheels if you have them in wd40?...please let me know if this is right and is there any way i can help my primer during the winter?..it will be under a waterproof cover thanks,kyle
The desiccant packs absorb moisture. Throw a couple in your car to keep mildew and other things from growing inside it. It shouldn't be a problem if your car only has primer on it, just as long as there's no bare metal. You can get the packs just about anywhere.
