It may sound like a stupid question, but what should i use to put back windshield into 66 Riviera? I am aware of modern glues as they might be to stiff here. My friend did it on his 66 Toronado and on sunny day glass cracked .So what i should be looking for here? Thanks for any input. Peace, Kacper.
I think the original stuff is called butyl, search windshield butyl it comes up. It comes in a long strip all rolled up. http://www.bing.com/shopping/search...utyl&qpvt=windshield+adhesive+butyl&FORM=HURE I have anew roll or two and some short remnants, I have used it for other purposes, it is very sticky and when fresh it is hard to remove. It comes in round or square, I like the square. It is cheap to buy and available from most parts houses, ebay etc. Although most glass shops will want to use the newer urethane. I can't help but wonder if your friends crack in the heat may have been caused by something other than the sealant. Mike
I had my windshield and rear glass re sealed at a local glass shop. Prior I bought 2 rolls of sealer ribbon at Napa. The shop said due to some regulation they had to use the black glue that comes in a tube. It made a mess. had to wait till it dried and then trim the stuff that squished out so I could put the trim back on. Also, the glass sets to far down in the channel than with the stock ribbon so now there is a gap between the stainless and glass. I plan on having both pieces removed again and then putting them back myself using the correct sealer.
I had the same problem, I did a green Sport Wagon and had all the glass out, a lot of glass. Had the glass installed while the trim was being polished. Tried to install the stainless and no go. So I had it all cut out again got it all ready with the trim laid out so we could find it as needed, set the glass with urethane and we installed the trim while the urethane was still wet. I have a great glass guy who is gentle with the old cars. No two places are going to do it the same.
Had the same problem but most glass shops will use the butyl on old cars if you want it. Look for a shop and ask ahead of time. The last two I have had done were butyl. Found a local glass shop that the owner is a car guy and that helps, and he uses the correct thickness to allow the trim to fit correctly, thanks Bill.
Thanks for the replies guys, now when i know what to use, whitch thickness should it be? 3/8 or 5/16..... I checked fisher manual but can't find it. Need more search here. Peace, Kacper.
I am thinking the OEM was 5/16 but the windshield guy, said he was going to use 3/8, and it worked out nice. He said if you use the 5/16 the chrome will be down to far and a space between the glass and chrome. I am thinking the new glass is slightly thinner. Anyway I have and two down and both are very nice, thanks Bill.
If I remember correctly, new cars actually use the windshield as a structural memeber adding strength to the car and because of that, you must use the black goop in a tube so it is the same as factory. However, since old cars didn't, I think the butyl is best. The window guys may have an in-house rule saying they must use the goop in a tube or perhaps that technician mis-understood the rule and applied it to every car rather than every car newer than (insert year).
Thanks for all the replies but stil no answer about thickness. Anybody have that expierience? Peace, Kacper.
Hi Kacper, I have always used 3/8". Never saw a specification but that has always worked well for me.
Jason thanks for chimming in with your experience. I should buy me a roll of butyl now, but first i'll check what my glass guy has found here local. They say that there is something like butyl with resistant wire inside. You can plug it to 12v and butyl comforts when its getting hot and soft. Will see. Butyl on ebay is cheap, shipping is 3 x the price...... Peace, Kacper.
if your car came from the factory with butyl tape to secure the windshield and rear glass, then the glass can be re-installed with butyl. I chose to use urethane glue.
I am afraid that urethane would be to stiff and glass could break when body would twist? Peace, Kacper.
My guy uses 3/8 butyl but the does a thin layer of urethane right next to the butyl ,the butyl gives you the needed depth and the urethane holds the glass firmly in place. He says he done a lot like this and never had a problem ,he's good too so I believe him.
The manual shows I think 6 spacers for the bottom of the windshield. Are these avail new? What about the clips for the molding? I had mine done recently but it leaks so will have it re-done, but want to get these pieces as we only had 1 spacer remaining and some of the clips were not holding the molding securely. Thx! Byas
