Hopefully someone has experience with this. I have been driving the riv around a lot lately and I love to have the windows down, the only problem is that they very selectively go down. At first only the rear left would go down from the drivers window switches. Open and shut the door, then the driver window rolls up and down consistantly along with the front passenger, open it again and now the passenger window will only go down not up, close it and itll do both.I know that its not the motors because theyll all go down with their own switches. I greased all of them up too.Im assuming it has something to do with the wiring in the door near where the hinges are.What is the best place to be looking for the source of the problem and whats the best way to get to it?
More often than not I have found these problems to be in the wiring between the door and the pillar. Many years of opening and closing the doors flexes the wiring to the point of breaking, but with so many wires being to close together they usually don't fall away, leaving the ends to touch and work randomly. If you slide the boot back from the wiring far enough you should be able to look for broken wires.
I have had similar issues. While sometimes it is the door-pillar pinch others have described here, more often (for me) it has been the switch. If you carefully pull the door panel and separate the connector module from the back of the switch you can use a jumper wire to test the circuits (see your shop manual's wiring diagrams; look up "Power Window Wiring Diagrams" in the index) and also use a multi-meter to check connectivity across the switch posts when you push the levers up and down. Might need a buddy to help you with this part. If it turns out to be a bad switch, 4-in-a-row replacements are available at OPGI HERE for $65 in the off-off-chance you have a 'Standard' interior. But more than likely you have the 2x2 (Deluxe interior) type, for which I've yet to find a replacement - perhaps someone else can steer you to one.
My windows did the same thing. I found the problem to be in the boot between the drivers door and the A piller. Cut and but spliced all that were cracked. problem solved,
Clean the tracks and apply some white lithium grease. More often than not they are just dry after 40 years. They will zoom up and down like new. DL
you live in california. why would you ever need to roll up your windows? :laugh: i had this problem for months. my '2x2' driver door switch was coming apart. i tried various combinations of rubber bands and glue, each of which worked for a day or two. :af: eventually i just got a switch off ebay. problem solved. :beers2:
X3 !, . . . and make sure the power window motors have a good chassis grond. You can test the operation of the switches quite easily with a meter ! :TU:
I just had my drivers door switch not working period but the rest of the windows worked on their dedicated switch. I cleaned the contacts and now it works acceptably. I was able to test the wiring portion by using a jumper wire as stated above to jump each circuit(super easy to do). The windows worked flawlessly with the jumperwire slower with the master switch. I'm guessing from cleaning, the contacts are barely making contact and building extra heat.
If your really "lucky", you can disassemble the switch and clean and adjust a little more tension into the spring steel switch contacts, but bear in mind that the switch cover is cast pot metal so it will not take kindly to too much bending on those crimped tabs ! The plastic weather seal can be carefully replaced at the same time, to seal out dust, dirt, and moisture. :TU: . . . do you feel lucky?, . . . well, do yah ? o No: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
