Well, tonight I'll finish up the installation of the Wilwood Rear discs on my "65 Lark. 4 wheel Wilwwod discs, It had better be able to stop on a dime.......I changed from rear drums for better braking, and to save weight, I know that I saved weight, stock stuff was 35 lbs. the new Wilwoods are 25 lbs. so for $550 I saved 10 pounds!!! Anyone out there have racing experience with these, just wondering how well they'll work since my car is still waiting for the motor to go back together. I was also told that it's a good idea to switch the master cylinder brake lines so the master res. feeds oposite from stock. Wilwood also said to get rid of the proportioning valve and replace it with a "T" . Tell me what you experience has been. I do have to tell ya that the "kit" was NOT a straight forward "bolt in", I have a Currie Ford 9in. "new style" big bearing, but the offset (measured from the axle flange to the end of the housing) was less than what there kit was for, so shimming was required to get the caliper to line up properly on the rotor. One thing that I didn't like was that now the stock Buick ralley wheels rub on the caliper, not that I use those rims other than when the car sits for a long time, keep the slicks from flat spotting, so I'll need to buy some thin wheel spacers, not a big deal. Gary G.
OK, I guess this is one of those "topics" where I get to figure it all out, and then Share the info. with the rest of the group. Gary G.
Sounds like the same situation I'm in, but I haven't finished sorting it out yet. I have a Moser ford 9" that came with spacers for the axle bearings, but I didn't use the spacers when I pressed the bearings on. Then I found out I needed to use the spacers! ou: Hopefully shims will fix it. I have the Wilwood master cylinder and the rear feeds the front brakes and the front feeds the rear brakes. I haven't plumbed it yet but I bought a Wilwood porp valve for the rear. I plan to use all 3/16" line. And I've had to learn how to use safety wire. More to come, I'm sure! :Smarty:
