Just wondering how the fuel lines were run with an Electric Pump. Basically from tank to carb, and would it be necessary to add a sump or modify the pick-up in the tank?
mine is just cut into the main line. with a switch. i did this so my carter would fill quicker. my carter dries out after a couple of days. some people say the elec pump should not run much if before mech pump. suppose to screw the mech up. i have not run into any problems but i just use it for a few seconds. others will have a better answer for you. good luck.
I'm sure that you will get differant answers from everybody. Are you going to use any of the factory line? Is this a street driven car? Will is be raced in any way? What size pump? Are you going to have a return line? How much money do you want to spend on the system? What size motor is it going to be for? How much horsepower does it have?
i have gone both ways , just stick a pump on a stock system inline from tank and rear sump with an fuel line up to regulator then to carb it depends on what your going to do with car and how much hp you need to feed street -inline should be ok race- faster then 12.5 you will need rear sump,10 an lines up to regulator
Well that was kind of what I was asking, I assume you had to run a new braided line just cause the overall line diameter on the stock was too small. I read that you can, but sounds like more work than just running all new. It is street driven, but not a daily, a pave pounder I guess. I already have a mallory 140 i picked up cheap so this was the starting ground. Money is always a question, let's stay reasonable. May shy away from the overpriced BG stuff, thinking along the lines of the matching mallory reg. and fill the rest with Jegs type knock-offs. I have a 455, dyno'ed at 425, then re-dyno'ed on the chassis at 315, but that was with the crap 10 bolt and stock tranny. Now I have a Ford 9" with a tru-trac, 3.50 gears. The motor is back out to do head work and a few misc. other upgrades. Currently have a 750 double pumper. The other reason I was thinking of doing this was one of the bolt holes on the timing cover for the fuel pump is so-so, figure the thread would hold a block plate better than a mechanical fuel pump. Also thought about adding NOS later. So any suggestions you have, pics and/or whatever is greatly appreciated. Back to the sump question, if I have to drop the tank to weld a bigger bung on the pick up, then I might as well add a sump I thought? Don't know. Thanks
stock lines might be ok for you for street use but if you want to run NOS you really should run a second pump to feed that system with its own sump from tank also you might want to goto an 850 carb with the 3.50 gears bring up the top end use a rear sump setup from jegs if your youing to run 2 pumps i have a bg pump 10 an line feeding my 464 with 1050 carb and my NOS is run off of a 8 an line ,holley blue pump and 8 an to regulator
lol... ou: :laugh: couldn't resist. your first 5 words.. I think it was #33 that has the fuel system on it. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=111673&page=2 This is overkill but if you want to step your motor up later you won't have to re-do the system. Like they say "you can't have too much fuel system" . I bought most of my stuff from Auto Masters on Division. that way i could just drive 20 min and return it if it was the wrong fitting, or whatever. A single sump 10an from your tank would be cool.. 8an would probably work fine too. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=111673&page=2
Nice. Thanks for the info guys. Running, may give you a call early spring if I run into questions. Thanks
I have an electric fuel pump on two of my cars: My '65 GTO has a pump back at the tank (Holley red pump), pumping into the mechanical fuel pump (stock) at the engine. Stock lines along the frame rail. This allows me to fill the carbs before cranking the motor and also provides some additional fuel pressure for full throttle blasts. This car has gone 12.20's with this setup. My Chevelle has a pump back at the tank (Holley red pump), pumping into the mechanical fuel pump at the engine (Holley mech pump). 1/2" fuel line along the frame rail. This car has gone 10.00's with this setup. Neither of these are sumped (both have 1/2" lines installed into the fuel tank sending unit). Both are naturally aspirated and I do not intend to run nitrous. Usually I drive around on the mechanical pump and then just switch the electric pump on at full throttle. The pump on the GTO has been on there sine 1967; on the Chevelle since the late 70's with no issues. FWIW - K
Mine is wired to the rear window defog switch... :Brow: (slightly obscured by the steering wheel spoke) K
Just one quick question, why wouldn't you run just the electrical pump all the time? Or is there one more piece of the puzzle I am missing?
Because you don't need to. The Stage1 pump will pull through the electrical pump during normal driving. You only need the extra fuel delivery when you are racing (or otherwise ) The electrical pump will push through the mechanical if you want to prime the carb. Activating it with the kickdown switch is a good way to make it hands free so that you don't forget to turn it on when you need to. Running the pump all the time is a waste and may shorten it's life expectancy.
The stock stage 1 pump is good to 450 hp and the TA mechanical pump is good to 500 hp. I would spend my money on something that will make a positive difference in performance. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=132410&highlight=ta+fuel+pump
Sure thing. Otherwise, Finishline performance in Hastings can help with most of the stuff you will need. They are Buick NUTS, but they can usually save you a buck or to on regulat crap as well.
Keep in mind, electric pumps can be noisy. They can also feed fuel to a fire if a safety shut off system isn't used. I use an low oil pressure kill system. My fuel pump won't run unless there is oil pressure. ElectraJim
Question answered. Thanks Larry. I do have a TA pump and it worked well. It just seemed to have a slight starve at a real heavy load. All makes sense now. Long story short, this all started when my timing cover was messed at the fuel pump, I was going to just block it off and run electric full time. With this info I may fix/replace the cover and use the pump for the starvation. The engine is out again and I am doing some work, wanted to get all my missed questions from the previous build on the table before I proceed. Things are always easier when the block is on the stand and the chassis is naked.
I run an electric only - but that was because there weren't any high-volume mechanicals available when I put my setup together. Electric-only is fine for a race car and even a street/strip car with moderate street driving, but, I do ALOT more than what I'd call Moderate street driving. I usually put over 5,000 miles a year on BigRed on roads far far away from home .... and because of this I always travel with a spare electric pump (mine are Mallory 140's) plus the proper wrenches to do the job in the ever-growing-box-of-musthaves I keep in the car.
