Which timing cover Bolts need silicone?

Hello,i`m in the process of putting back the timing cover on my `65,i could`nt get to it for atleast a month due to the cold weather around here and now i will be putting it back but i dont remember which ones require thread sealer or silicone?can some one please help me out?


Thanks

 

Bolts

George - I think its the long ones, usually the drivers side lower one on the water pump. A quick check is to use a small diameter rod and qently push it in the hole. The holes you are worried about extend into the water jacket, you can feel the extra depth. You may be able to see the water jacket with a bright light. Also, you may have some coolant in the hole. I believe anti-seize is best to use as it will allow disassembly later and will still seal the threads. And you should be using grade 8 bolts - factory or aftermarket.

Anyone else?

- Bill

 

oh ok Bill,i am using all new bolts since the old ones were really bad,so u say anti seize will do the trick?i would rather use that instead of silicone.


Thanks

 

yup

yes - Bill

 

Thanks for the timely post....I am replacing the water pump on my 401 and found some of the longer bolts will need sealant and didn't know what type would be best....Question--is there a recommended brand of anti-seize dressing???

 

brand

I use the Permatex brand. I'm sure any "brand" name will work.

- Bill

 

I use the copper goop from NAPA, I think it is permatex. I think the bolt you want to seal is the long one at about 10 o'clock. but the copper goop worked for all the bolts for me.

 

Thanks...I've got some of the permatex sealant....Didn't know if I was looking for something really special or just this.

 

sealer

I use the old permatex 300 aka tobaccer spit . It doesnt harden. it seals crap it does every thing.
put it on the cross over bolts and the water pump bolts where the long bolts are.

 

I just reassembled my 401 and I think only one or none of the holes hit the water jacket. The head ones are sealed, and the block ones that are open only penetrate the crankcase. At the advice of my machinist, I've been using brush on high tack with good success. Never hardens, lubes for install. Seems to be working well.
Pat