I have a '66 Q-jet intake for the 401/425 Buick nailhead. I want to use it along with a Q-jet to replace the AFB that I'm currently running on my '64 Buick Riviera. The Riviera has a TH400 trans and a 3.07 rear gear. I have four different carbs from which to choose. I'd like your opinions on which would be best suited for my application. I have: 1) original '66 carb 2) a service replacement for the original '66 carb 3) one from a '69 Buick 430 (7029241) all of the above operate freely but none have been rebuilt and 4) one from a '77 Olds 403/455 (17057254) which has been recently rebuilt. When I ran numbers on this carb, I get info that it was used on GMC motor homes from the era. What problems, if any, would I run into if I mount one of the later carbs on the early manifold. I have a new stainless heat shield gasket and I'm considering blocking off the exhaust crossover at the carb flange The two '66's have the original style hot air choke, the 7029421 has a divorced choke, the 17057254 has a hot air choke. I know that I'll need to fabricate kick-down linkage for any of them, but that's the least of my concerns. Please feel free to share any thoughts, especially about today's ethanol fuel related problems. Thanks, Ed
My first thought is, what type of choke do you want, or do you even need a choke at all? Any of them would work, but you would want it rebuilt and set up to match you driving desire. If your choice is only those listed, I would build the 69 carb for your 425. Set up would be close anyway for you, and when built with good quality parts, it will work well with today's fuels.
I have built a number of Buick Q-jets, all pretty much succesfully and my favorite still is the 66 service replacement, a 7041304. it really depends on the core, (like how warped the airhorn is, etc...) and how willing you are to do subesequent versions of tuning....very few have been perfect right off the bench... Of your choices, I like the service replacement first (assuming it has the updated needle and seat) - it'll have the correct ball stud if you're running the original kickdown linkage..It'll work with about a 1/4 inch extension from the original AFB configuration. The 77 Olds carb is my next choice. The 77 carb has the adjustable APT and bigger CFM, but the service replacement is already calibrated pretty well for you car...both give you the hot air choke option you can use...and it is NICE having a functioning automatic choke. I definetely think going to a Q-jet over an AFB is a great move.....all of those carbs will bolt right to the manifold you have. But keep heat to the manifold (you'll send Doc into fits, and rightly so if you don't!)! Block the heat at the carb pad with brass plugs. Do a search and you can read all about how to go about that.. Good luck, and keep us posted! Let us know if you need help.
I just checked the Svc Replacement carb; same as the number you gave with an addition four digits of 3473. ???? The kick-down switch on a '64 is a push to activate switch controlled by a roller on a pin on the AFB's linkage. The '66 svc. replacement is designed for '66 pull type kick-down switch. I do have that switch as well as the mounting bracket for it. That switch also has wiring for switch pitch ST400; the '64 ST400 has a straight converter on it so I can just leave those wires unattached. Could be an easy swap. The carb looks as if were barely used. I'm new to the Q-jet game so any advice as to what I should look for / be aware of will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Ed
Thats a good carb! The extra digits are date codes I believe. I would get Cliff Ruggles book and read it cover to cover..that'll give you a good idea of what you're working with. Just be careful of stripped threads on the fuel inlet and needle/seat, air horn warping aboove the primaries, excessive play in the primary throttle shaft, condition of the secondary air valve plastic cam and well plug leakage.....sounds like alot but it's really not. If you're not up to it, either Cliff or Ken form Everyday Performance will do a great job rebuilding it for you...At very least get a good quality kit from Cliff's - he's at 740-397-2921 - his parts are excellent and will withstand ethanol. You can use the pull type actuator for the kickdown and leave the SP wiring dead, -or this is a great opportunity to throw a switch pitch tranny in the car and have some more fun! Well worth the effort, IMO. I thought I saw one for sale here on the board. Good luck!
There's some great info in post #15: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?212423-carb-options-Attention-Doc-Cliff-R-) I'm using both an original '66 carb as well as a service replacement with good results. After reading the post I linked to, I'm going to take another look at those potential gas leak issues! There was a recall back in the day to correct a problem with a leaking fuel inlet inlet on the original '66 carbs. Buick provided a support bracket to fix the problem. Recall: http://www.faqs.org/car/buick-electra-1966/ https://bulk.resource.org/courts.gov/c/F2/565/565.F2d.754.76-1745.76-1744.html And the bracket 'fix': http://www.oldsobsolete.com/product...uadrajet-fuel-inlet-plug-kit-nos-66c12-66c01/
One of those is lying on the floor of the garage as well. If I were to do that, I'd also use the converter from an ST300. However, my plans are to install a 200-4R p/d transmission behind the engine; I've got one of the later design Eelco adapters and the trans from an 80's era Olds Cutlass that came from the factory with a V8. Need to keep the car running by changing one variable at a time . The carb is first, then the HEI ignition, then the transmission swap and installation of the 3.91 gear set I have. I've got the Q-jet books by both Cliff and Doug Roe. Reading them right now is sort of a foreign language to me at this point. I probably need some basic carb "learnin' " first. Again, I appreciate everything everyone has done so far. I think at this point, my best bet would be to have one of the new kits installed and check the books to see what, if anything besides what all of you have described, and give it a shot. The next step would be fabricating linkage on the carb to operate a TV cable to the 200-4R. Thanks big time, Ed
Walt - surprised I never caught that thread! I built a similar carb as Ted... a 67 baseplate with an 800CFM 73 240 body and airhorn ,minus the choke parts...it's my temporary/try on carb and runs great on everything (including most recently the Pontiac) But at the track on the 65 I haven't seen a difference.....runs pretty much identical times, but the service replacement carb runs just a little sweeter..and that could be due to any number of fixable things that I just havent messed with.
