I was just reading through some other posts about Optimas giving low voltage. I've heard this from Bruce Hunter, Jim Wiese, and others. I have a Red Top in my '72. The two passes I made on the old motor had a high speed miss. I blamed the motor at the time, but now I'm wondering if the voltage was low. (BTW, an alternator is going on before the new motor goes down the track.) Is Optima crapping out on us?
Hi jeff, I,m on my third optima battery in two and a half years. the brand new one went into the car this morning , free replacement from Optima. Oddley enough the Co. shipped one right to my house no charge and I took the old one to Summit Racing and they gave me my money back in Full, because they did not have any in stock at the time. I'm runnig dual electric fans and the Mezeirre water pump, along with Mallary ignition system, 13.4:1 compression. I'm under the impression that I now need to charge the battery after every pass, as all other aspects of the electrical sys. checked out fine. the old Optima "red top" was down to 11.86 volts and would not charge any higher after a day and a half of charging. At least the Co. has a great replacement plan. Bruce
Bruce, Do you run an alternator? If you do, do you mean you still have to re-charge after each pass? Thanks for the info Bruce. I know that alternators can do it all in a short burst. However, on my last racecar I could go all night without re-charging and I had a standard 70-amp 1-wire and a Red Top. My current set-up is similar to Bruce's. 462 ci, 13.3:1, elec water pump and fan, MSD 7al-2, and a BG280 fuel pump. That's alot of amperage. Is there maybe another battery that could do better. I've seriously considered a 16V system. Any thoughts?
Jeff, yes I run an alternator, at about 85/90amps, folks say it just does not run long enough to fully charge the battery with the electronics I have on the car, and on a side note I also have a products Enginering fuel pump system that dras quite a bite of amps as well, as to your earlier post of top end missing, I felt the same thing, and believe it is due to the battery situiation. one wire alternator, 85/90 amps at 2000rpm excite point. when I have a fresh battery, the car performs perfectly, definately check your voltage at the batt. and when running, if it's below 12 volts your losing power. Bruce
Jeff: I have four red tops in the motor home that are used to start the diesel motor. They are worn out after 4 years. The coach manufacturer said to take them back to Advanced Auto and get an adjustment on them. They are supposed to be good for five years. Next weeks project. I am switching to 16V for 2004. The FAST system, the 7AL-2 ignition system, and the fuel pump will love the extra juice. Rossler transmissions said the transbrake will also perform better. No real downsides for as short a period of time it will be running. It will also eliminate the alternator which seems to always be in the way. The big negative is that you have to spend $$$$ to get the 16V charger. Good luck.
John, when you go the 16v route, be SURE you carry spare transbrake solenoids, fuel pumps, bulbs and relays:shock: J gauge bulbs too..ou:
John, I switched to the 16 volt system this year. The engine cranks over easily and the car cools down much quicker. Its the only way to go. The only downside is all electrical components must be turned off while charging. Due to the output of the charger component could be fried when charging. Take Care
Guys, don't those 16 volt batteries have a 12 volt post on them for your accessories to run off of? That's what I've seen in the Turbostart ad.
Doug: Some batteries are dual + posts with one being 12V and the other 16V. They also have the - post. Others are straight 16V.
1932 Model 57 " Nope 1965 Special "Nope 1968 Skylark "Nope 1971 Stage 1 Convertible "Maybe" 1971 Opel GT "Yep" 1973 Stage 1 Riviera "Nope" 1976 Riviera "Nope" 1986 GN "Nope" 1986 Regal Limited "Nope" 1989 Reatta "Nope" 1995 Riviera "Nope" 1996 Riviera Supercharged "Nope" 1998 Regal Supercharged "Nope" 2002 Z06 "Nope" The Bus "Nope" The mysterious Bread Truck "Hhmmmm" ...and..........YEP! Both?????????????? :grin:
John, I'm afraid your pro-rated 5 year batteries,after 4 years are only rated at 20%. They will sell you 4 more at a 20% discount!! That's just the way they do it.Bastards!!!:stmad:
Doug, I was told by New Castle Battery that you should use the straight 16 volt system when running this system in a race car. It is best to use two of these batteries but that will totally break your wallet. They suggest the style of battery you are speaking of when large high powered stereo equiptment is involved. I have also heard from a very well known machine shop that 16 volts is worth 10 to 12 HP on the dyno. Take Care John
Summit has a sale on Optima batteries through the 31 of October. (Reg $129, now $89) I was going to order one tomorrow...but it sounds like they aren't too reliable! Any more Optima horror stories???
Schurkey, i have the famous" red top " in my '68 for 2 years now without any trouble (yet) I run a holley blue pump, electric fan, trans brake, & moroso electric water pump. I'm just careful not to run the acessories long when sitting in the pits, & i always throw a charge for about 45 min. everytime i plan to go out racing. On a 2 day Buick weekend, i need to charge about an hour or so at the end of the first day to insure enough power for the 2nd. day. I run a standard 63 amp alt. with the big pulley. Randy
